SGinNorcal wrote:
Close and reopened C1 and it seems to be sticking with the settings now. I can't believe my issues with highlights appear to be such a simple fix. I might even pull them up occasionally or even increase exposure! One more question for you Jack, what does this mean, "pulling the right levels slider down a bit obtain a 250-ish white"?
My advice is to save an output recipe. In my case I have several, but the ones I use for FM posts are 8-bit srgb jpeg at 2048px max dimension for a normal, full-frame JPEG; and then a max of 4096px for anything cropped to 16:9 or wider. Next save a “style” and save it as “Fuji X base.” Here, click on film curve (set to film std), WB (set to as shot), exposure items, levels, curves and HDR all zeroed out, sharpening, clarity and NR all at your preferred defaults. Now you can choose to pre-apply that style to every image on import, saving a bunch of editing time by pre-applying those values to every image as your starting point. Of course make sure “auto adjust” and “include existing adjustments” are both NOT checked for import! (Auto adjust is customizable to a limited degree in the second tier menu, but I still don’t like many of its choice limitations, so tend not to use it. You can apply it to individual images singly during editing jf you want a Q&D look at something, then it’s equally easy to undo in one step if you don’t like it.)
And to be clear for thread posterity to folks who may not understand proper color workflow: outputting an Adobe rgb to an Srgb viewing system will absolutely screw up the appearance of color, wb and gamma/brightness/contrast/saturation of the image!
Mar 14, 2026 at 03:22 PM
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