I appreciate both comments, from what I can tell the collimator makes it easier to check infinity focus indoors. And by calibrating for infinity, you're hoping it works at close focus - and adjusting the camera if not I assume - though I don't know if it's actually possible just to adjust just the close focus yourself, I know there are two screws on the camera body but I thought it's just for horizontal and vertical alignment. Maybe it's a balancing act.
My main concern is say you've got some shims from the manufacturer and adjusted for infinity focus.
But the close focus is still off...but on lens 2 it's spot on, on lens 3 it's inbetween.... if that's even possible. Adjusting the screw on the camera body for one lens, messes it up for a different one.
It sounds like it would be doable to adjust things for a one camera one lens matchup (or sending the pair in), but I got no idea what the ideal lens would be. Something with minimal focus shift I imagine would save some additional frustration and there's not a tonne that wouldn't look too close to digital. This one doesn't have that issue from what I've read here.
I can contribute in a small way for film camera folks - I used 2 small bits of 40x50x1mm glass, sliced a bit off so it's closer to 35mm and won't sit on the outer guiding railings, sanded edges, some carbide powder of medium grit inbeteen and a smidge of water turns them into ground glass after 10mins of circular motions on a flat surface.
I found it much nicer to check the focus with than using tape. It'll be much flatter and closer to correct position and quite clear with a loupe and bright subject (used my phone torch on a pen with some text).
With the tape for me it was inconsistent depending on how tight, where I taped it etc. Whereas with the glass you just place it on the inner railings and tape it down.
And I appreciate this is a nice lens to use on digital too and some workarounds there and that it's something not really specific to a lens or brand but rangefinders in general. A user here recently shared his frustrations with a brand new 35mm noctilux and focussing issue. I'm just trying to figure out what I'd be getting myself into
This one I wanted also as a character alternative 35mm for digital. But it's not cheap for that, and maybe some vintage lens would do as I won't care about focus shift as much on digital - and I know it would have held up in terms of build but the bokeh likely wouldn't be as nice. And 35mm tend to be bigger than the 50s so when you adapt it on sony from something other than m mount it gets quite long. So I'm interested but just not in a rush. Though the titanium looks quite nice.
I appreciate both comments, from what I can tell the collimator makes it easier to check infinity focus indoors. And by calibrating for infinity, you're hoping it works at close focus - and adjusting the camera if not I assume - though I don't know if it's actually possible just to adjust just the close focus yourself, I know there are two screws on the camera body but I thought it's just for horizontal and vertical alignment. Maybe it's a balancing act.
My main concern is say you've got some shims from the manufacturer and adjusted for infinity focus.
But the close focus is still off...but on lens 2 it's spot on, on lens 3 it's inbetween.... if that's even possible. Adjusting the screw on the camera body for one lens, messes it up for a different one.
It sounds like it would be doable to adjust things for a one camera one lens matchup (or sending the pair in), but I got no idea what the ideal lens would be. Something with minimal focus shift I imagine would save some additional frustration and there's not a tonne that wouldn't look too close to digital. This one doesn't have that issue from what I've read here.
I can contribute in a small way for film camera folks - I used 2 small bits of 40x50x1mm glass, sliced a bit off so it's closer to 35mm and won't sit on the outer guiding railings, sanded edges, some carbide powder of medium grit inbeteen and a smidge of water turns them into ground glass after 10mins of circular motions on a flat surface.
I found it much nicer to check the focus with than using tape. It'll be much flatter and closer to correct position and quite clear with a loupe and bright subject (used my phone torch on a pen with some text).
With the tape for me it was inconsistent depending on how tight, where I taped it etc. Whereas with the glass you just place it on the inner railings and tape it down.
And I appreciate this is a nice lens to use on digital too and some workarounds there and that it's something not really specific to a lens or brand but rangefinders in general. A user here recently shared his frustrations with a brand new 35mm noctilux and focussing issue. I'm just trying to figure out what I'd be getting myself into
This one I wanted also as a character alternative 35mm for digital. But it's not cheap for that, and maybe some vintage lens would do as I won't care about focus shift as much on digital - and I know it would have held up in terms of build. Trouble is 35mm tend to be bigger than the 50s so when you adapt it on sony from something other than m mount it gets quite long. So I'm still interested just not in a rush currently. Though the titanium looks quite nice.
