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Re: Zeiss 35mm 1.4 zm still my preferred 35 | |
nehemiahphoto wrote:
Yogifi wrote:
In the previous page youtube video, at around 13mins30secs, there was a non-tripod portrait comparison photo at f1.4 between the fle and the distagon with the subject in the midzone, and the difference was quite dramatic.
He does say f2 and it's fixed though.
With the FLE you'd need the hood on right, due to flare so the length isn't that much shorter but you probably would feel the weight and girth difference (I imagine). It's nice being nimble.
Doesn't make much difference to me as I wouldn't get the fle to use on Sony. I'm also not sold on digital leica quite yet, bit lost in general with film at the moment.
But it's not smooth sailing using it on Sony either. Without PCX, need to stop down to like 5.6/8 for the edges to look decent (if they're on the same plane as the subject). With the PCX filter, you do get a midzone dip - but it's not massive (compared to the performance without on Sony - as opposed to comparing PCX on vs native m sensor). f2.8 I notice the difference the most when zoomed in on an a7cii raw but this is tested at like 5-8m distance. I'm still undecided if I ought to take off the pcx for people shots - it seems to be fine.
And it doesn't seem as noticeable as the fle wide-open midzone dip on native m vs distagon in that youtube video comparison, but admitedly that's all I've based the fle midzone 1.4 performance on and it wasn't exactly a scientific test.
Going to (respectfully!) disagree with several points here. I almost always used to the FLE without the hood. You can have it along, but putting on a hood if needed sometimes is a lot different than just having a substantially larger lens.
As far as not using it on a Sony, the FLE has less of the mid-zone dip than on Leica m at the expense of corner res. Personally, I like this very much. If you give me a good center and decent mid zone, I don’t need perfectly sharp outer areas at 1.4. And none of these lenses are going to give you across the frame sharpness on a Sony. And I think it actually performs better than the other options on a Sony all things considered. The CV 35/1.7 does well-ish too. If you take a look at Bastian’s articles:
“ On the Sony A7rII with its thick filter stack the corners look worse at wider apertures – as was to be expected – but the midzone dip is not as strong. Lenses with floating elements sometimes do funny things. Compared to the Voigtländer VM 35mm 1.5 Nokton and the Thypoch Simera 35mm 1.4 this Leica looks best to me when used on a Sony E-mount camera which should also be the case for Z-mount cameras.”
I have not seen a heads up, but I suspect it would be better than the ZM 35 1.4 as well. I have a modded sensor and a Sony sensor, and I prefer to use the FLE on a Sony sensor.
On a Leica digital or modded camera, I think both the ZM 35/1.4 is easily technically better. But I’d still prefer the rendering (and size/ergo) on the 35 FLE. I don’t own the 35 FLE any longer cause I don’t like the price . Other than that I loved it.
A fair point about the hood, and the weight and thickness difference would still be relevant. Flare is just something that has been bothering me more and more, not so much the smaller coloured blobs but losing the contrast when you were hoping you kept it. That washed out look can feel really cheap when it's significant - and I like having the sun in the shot! A small bit here and there I'm not bothered about. That summicron flare I've seen get really bad.
I wouldn't get the FLE to use on Sony not because of performance but just mentally something's not sitting right with me. Perhaps that's being a bit silly, I'm not sure.
It's so expensive and I'll be using it on Sony? It's like a weird mishmash and takes away some of the main benefit of the Sony: less cost, less to worry about. If I bought the FLE, I'd want a digital Leica, but I need that IBIS - and then the size difference is probably gone (hopefully not).
Good to know about the midzone dip being even better on Sony - though I don't have much complaints about the ZM either there so far. PCX I'm thinking about it as something that gives it a 1-stop advantage for longer distance scenes. 2 if push comes to shove. It's not going to be an APO that I can use at f2.8. The 35/1.7 I just can't find in black and good condition.
That kind of sucks also though - like why is the FLE midzone not as good on Leica, surely they ought to improve that on the next one. They cost enough and you're paying for 1.4.
Maybe if the a7c3 is 1cm thinner (which I doubt it will be) it would tip the scale and I'd wear it on the neck with the summilux and I'd get over the branding clash. I hope one day they manage it without losing IBIS. In the meantime I'm ... alright honestly. Just thinking about the 28mm apo-lanthar and I think I'm all set for digital. Maybe give the 11873 a try too.
... Though now I'm thinking about it to replace the TTA 40/2 when I want small and don't need autofocus. -- No, that's too far I think. If the bokeh was a bit smoother maybe if I was feeling like being foolish but really I'm so fine with the distagon on the a7cii.

Though I do notice when I put a Simera on how much lighter it is. But otherwise no real issue. It's the same with the fm2n. I could use a 35/2 or 40/2 ultron pancake but I'm currently happier taking the bigger 35 1.4 ais. It's in the small shoulder bag anyway. If it wasn't in the bag, the summilux size makes a lot more sense if I needed 1.4 and wanted manual focus. On a leica it's a slimmer body but that midzone dip - it doesn't seem to bother Jack Takahashi, who hated it with the 35 1.5 nokton, but that comparison with the distagon I dunno. Size probably makes it funner to use and tips the scale there. On Sony it's a tough ask for the price and still compromising performance.
It's the film stuff driving me crazy. Lenses but also the bodies. Focus accuracy and effect of mirror slap with the bodies.
I can just about do 1/60 without IBIS on the 35mm ZM Distagon (Sony) - but I need to be careful. I'd love to be able to do 1/30 without IBIS on film with a 35mm lens more reliably.
I'm hoping the rangefinder would help with that as I've heard people saying they've gone down to 1/15. I'd be ecstatic with 1/30 at very good odds, or 1/60 being always perfect with a 35mm lens.
My hands aren't very shakey but I do see small movements, possibly more than others so I dunno if it will even make any difference. Need to do some more testing with silent shutter mode. FM2n and A7cii make about the same sound with the mirror slap so I'm hoping that will be indicative. It doesn't really seem to make much difference with the mirror on or off - a bit hit or miss, at both 1/30 and 1/60.
I think I got sloppy with the IBIS crutch making it something I don't even think about, don't have that option for film (at least of the bodies I know about and am interested in).
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