AdaptedLenses wrote:
Appreciate the thoughts and links. I don’t think it’s a color space issue per se but maybe. If you look at the OOF area top right in the yellow leaf pic you’ll see what’s bugging me. It’s like the transitions from blues to yellows gets a band around it. Similar to what can happen if you push shadows too hard etc but it’s color related. Probably an oddity in the settings setup of the A7III I was using, haven’t seen it on the A7II yet but will keep an eye out. I had an A7III and A7RIII previously and never noticed so trying to figure out where it’s coming from.
James Markus wrote: AdaptedLenses wrote:
One more from the 400mm f/5.6, really enjoying this lens. Random question for the Sony shooters though, I’ve been playing with the A7III again and I’m getting what I’d describe as color posterization. A couple versions of the shot to show what I mean, changing the WB makes dramatic differences in the color separations/transitions. Is this an artifact of Compressed RAW?
The specs for compressed vs uncompressed raw on the Sony A7III is 14 bit - many many billions of colors (levels of color luminosity). The color space you shoot in can help in the down sampling. Pro, Adobe, and sRGB the choices in most cameras, and in the A7II it is only srgb, and Adobe. I would set it to Adobe, because it's palette of colors is about 20-30% greater (both are in the 2-3 millions of color levels of luminosity), and both fit within the 16.7 million color jpg container file (bucket) You can test your compressed vs uncompressed raw by saving it as a 16 bit tif. The 16 bit container file (bucket) can hold 281 trillion colors (or shades of color levels of luminosity) So, I doubt you will see any difference. I would just make conversion to the srgb profile the very last step in imaging the file so it's colors look right on the web.
EDIT
Here is a really good explaination of color space. If you scroll down to the color chart with all three spaces overlaid - you can visually see the differences.
I was trying to explain why it couldn't be whether a raw file is compressed or not, but got into the weeds a bit, sorry.
The most likely cause is your change of white balance. I never used auto WB until the D850, and the 5DS-R - until then they were always wrong. In fact, I still revert to manual WB settings - most of the time. If your camera has a profile of "standard or neutral" start there, but I would suggest a better method is to use the kelvin scale. I have all my Canon's set to start at 5000K, and my Nikon's at 5200K. I'll chimp a shot - too yellow - dial down to a lower number until it looks right on your screen. Too cold - I'll dial it up to warm the image. After some practice you can see the color of the light, and just set it before you start shooting - check and tweak.
I saw banding on your left side OOF areas that reminds me of a levels adjustment versus a curves adjustment. With levels it literally throws away information, but curves has an infinite set of points - so it is not as destructive to an image. A camera wb profile like "vivid", or some other overly saturated profile could literally destroy the image as soon as you take it. With raw files you could fix it after the fact, but with jpg - it's gone. This guy uses your same camera, and basically does what I have been doing for 20 years since the D1X.
Dec 19, 2024 at 12:39 PM
Previous versions of James Markus's message #16710567 « Manual Focus Nikon Glass »
