arbitrage wrote: Jemini wrote: arbitrage wrote:
Tony's funny. But hey, I have a list going of things I don't like about the A1 also. I actually have a full document I'm working on with the pros and cons between the A1 and the R5.
Most of Tony's points aren't things I use on the camera or care about (connectivity, GPS, pixel-shift).
Others are things I don't really agree with even though they are things I use: Flip screen (I hate the R5's flip screen and with Sunny Weather setting I have no issues with seeing it in sun), SD card speed (I've yet to be hampered by it and I shoot decent length bursts), card size (I'm running 128GB and never filled it in a day so 160 would be fine). The Human/Animal/Bird icon does change in the Fn menu but I guess not on the EVF/LCD...I wouldn't know as I turn off all overlays other than histogram on my screens (and of course I only shoot birds so it is moot point to me).
Overall AF better than the R5? No...flat out no....the only point I'll concede is that Bird-Eye AF in some tricky situations with messy background is better on the R5.
Better controls on the R5?...heck no....the R5 buttons are horrible compared to the A1, the A1 has better customization of the buttons.
Things I agree with in that video: the file quality limitation for 30FPS...I'm not really bothered by this as the Lossy files have never bothered me and it is all I've ever used on Sony but it would be nice to be able to shoot Lossless Compressed and not have to lose 30FPS.
One of the points just seem incorrect:
My shutter closes on power off and I'm in ES all the time so don't know what is up with his camera
"My shutter closes on power off and I'm in ES all the time so don't know what is up with his camera" I thought he said 'Silent mode', not electronic shutter. Does that make sense?
Couple of little things I've learned from the forum. May be these things doesn't affect lots of people. But I think being a $6500 flagship A1 should avoid any chance to miss the shot
1. When in 'simlut' write mode (writing to both cards) and if you forget to put one card in, camera won't shoot. This is same
behavior as A9 and I missed shots from the field. I left one card in card reader at home . Nikon would still shoot
2. (you can confirm this - This might be a Mirrorless issue) When the camera is focused at a far away subject and you try to focus a subject (bird) at close by perch camera won't focus. The focus points will dance around the subject and still stay at farther subject. I usually point to something that fills the frame (eg ground) and focus and then aim at the subject, it will refocus.
3. This is more of a question. I like to keep switching between EVF and LCD automatic. That way when I raise the camera to eye, I can shoot using EVF and review pictures in LCD without any button presses. I can also shoot at ground level without changing anything. I changed it to Manual in A9 to avoid delay to shoot if something appear all of sudden. But that causes missed shots too. I forget to change to back to EVF from LCD and by the time I realize this, the bird would be gone. Also I like to see the settings (SS, Aperture etc in LCD as A9 lacks top LCD. Question is, if I leave this to automatic is there any delay in EVF to turn on? I know it can affect the battery. But that's ok.
4. This is also a question. Can you convert AF area into a single point by holding a button and still move the point around? I think you understand this from D500. I know I can use custom hold a button. But A9 doesn't allow moving the point (flexible spot medium or small) around using joy stick if button hold is used. I can also switch to single point from zone with a button press (Regist AF Area Toggle), then you have to remember to put it back. This is what I do now. Holding a key would be great.
5. Another question. What's the minimum SS for electronic shutter? In A9, I can't go below 1/8 sec. For macro I have to use mechanical shutter. I haven't tested it, but is it possible to have some vibration and lack of sharpness?
Some of these are concerns are because I'm coming from SLR. But I think most of Sony shooters are coming from SLR . I know too many little things. Hope someone out there will be able to answer if you don't have answers for all of these..
#2: Yes, general MILC issue. I've had it on all my Sony cameras (including A1), my R5, my Z50 and Z7.
#3: The delay is way better than the A9. There is always a slight delay. But on the A1 I have turned down my Power Save timer to 1 min and allowed it to sleep. On the A9 I kept it at 30mins so the wakeup of the EVF was less laggy. I think the A1 out of Power Save is as fast as the A9 when not in Power Save. I haven't done a critical back to back test. Even the A1 from complete Power Off can wake as fast as you can raise the camera to your eye if you switch it On as you start to raise it.
#4: I'm not sure about that but I think the answer maybe is no. The only button I could see that even work with would be the lens button as otherwise you can't really hit a back button and move the joystick at the same time. On the D500 you could use the lens button or the front PV or DOF buttons to do that. I will try to remember to test the lens button to see if the joystick can move the point while the lens button is held in for a Recall Hold function that brings up a Flex Spot.
#5: I don't know about this one...but looks to be answered above.
Thank you again.
Re: #3: Great to know. I hope I can use 'Auto' in EVF and LCD. It's not really bad even in A9 as long as camera is awaken.
Re:: #4 - I tried even with lens button hold and use joy stick to move focus point around. It won't work (in A9 of course). If you can try in A1, that'd be great. BTW, registering AF area and toggling it has an issue too. Once you are in registered af area (flexible small) you can use joy stick to move the point around. But then it won't go back to original setting (in my case zone). It will stay in flexible small, but move back to original position.
So no way to to switch between two different af areas and move the point around! May be I have to use a custom bank for this. BE-AF will solve half of the issue because main reason I want to use single point is when there's some foreground stuff that camera focus on. I had tough time focusing on below image (not an important image anyway). I finally used manual focus.
. Nikon would still shoot