The most spectacular sight in Varanasi are the Temple rituals performed every night on the top of the ghats outside the temples. You can watch from the shore (if you get there early enough) or from a boat on the Ganges. It lasts about 45 mins and they go through each item, the feather stick, the burning incense stick, the smoking genie lamp, the towering tiered flame thingy
There are 4 or 5 guys in a line all doing the same thing.