Some of the shots were scanned by my local camera shop at very low Rez. Very small and noisy grainy. I\'m still trying to figure out a proper workflow for scanning and PP. Just need more time. Haha!
You know... Got that Coolscan sitting right here. Will even help you install on a Windows machine.
I might not need a film/negative scanner right now, but I could use a lesson or two in the negative scanning process/techniques and PP of scanned negatives.
Is an art in of itself. I use a Plustek 8100 for 35mm. And DSLR scan my medium format...I may say it can even beat the Nikon Coolscan in terms of details and resolution. Maybe not in the DR range. Is good enough for me that I am not planning to drop $3k for an obsolete Nikon medium format scanner..hahahahah....
PM me if you really want to learn how to DSLR scan your negatives.....Is more than slapping on few toilet paper rolls and point it toward any light source (ghetto). I can consistently produce very good scans/copies with my medium format negatives with over 6000 pixel resolution. So much so that I feel no need to shoot larger format. No need for a dedicated medium format scanner. I used to think that I want to shoot as larger the format as possible because my old Canon 9000f flatbed scanner won\'t struggle to capture all the details.
Here is one of the shots DSLR scanned at 6300x4500 resolution....you may notice some very minor, minor misalignment issues (like wires and small lines) due to CS6 having some issues merging the captures. It was captured in 3 sections.
Nikon D7000 with a Tamron 90mm sp f2.5, with an extension tube. I could get to 1 to 1 magnification ratio. Then, I would need to capture more sections and to merge them together. More sections mean greater resolution. The D7000 only has a 16 mp sensor. It would be great if I could use a 24mp body to scan so that I won\'t need to capture that many sections. Less work. At ISO100, the D7000 sensor has an effective DR of 10 stops.
You would want a flat field macro lens for the scan too.
Would the Nikon 55mm f/2.8 AI-S macro lens be good enough to scan negatives with? If yes, then all I need to do is get a camera!
What do you use to hold the negatives and light them?
You have to try the lens first and to look at the edges of the negative to see if you see any softness. 55mm f3.5 ai or ais is also good too.
I use a cardboard box cutout (USPS priority mail shipping box) as a negative holder. I use 3M blue masking tape to tape the negative in place. The light source is a home deport flood like powering a 60w cfl blub. The lighting intensity is so much that I can get a proper exposure at iso 100, F6.3, 1/100s.
Since the film holder is a cardboard, it tends to wrap and bend. I then hot glued the holder with some bicycle wheel spokes.
With my old setup, I used a piece of anti reflective glass to hold the negatives. It was great because the negative is flat and all BUT the matted patterns causing my highlights blocking out. And they may have been accidentally capture and interfering with the grain patterns on the negative. I stopped mounting the film strip on the anti reflective glass since my last 2 scans. So far so good. And I keep the exposure setting not exceeding 1/3 of a stop. Keeping the exposure curve, more or less, in the middle.