Visuals, there are many options such as metabones, kipon and voigtlander. I have the metabones myself and am satisfied. Cheaper options does exist but they usually have some play between the adapter and the lens mount.
LivLif wrote:
What is the best adaptor for Nikon G lenses?
The cheap ones off ebay have worked well for me. You want to be sure to get one with the aperture control, since G lenses don't have an aperture ring on them. It's an "analog" control in the form of a simple dial so you wont know what exact aperture you're at any time. You have to rely on the exposure differences on the LCD/VF to guess the aperture you've set the lens to . For example, set the dial (lens) to wide-open, note the exposure, then start turning the dial and watch the metering display on the LCD. When it's -1EV you know you've closed the lens 1 stop. Unfortunately the metering display maxes out at -2/+2 EV, so if you need to move the aperture by more than 2 stops you'll need to change the shutter speed after ever 2 stops of adjustment to get the meter display back to +0, then repeat the process again.If you don't need exact aperture you can of course rely on the DOF preview that is always active on the LCD as you change the aperture.
Question for those of you who are using "fast" adapted lenses on the NEX (probably most of us).
When using a smaller aperture than wide open, do you focus with the lens wide open and then stop and shoot or do you stop down and then focus and shoot? And why?
You should always focus with the wides aperture possible since that'll be the narrowest point of focus. Stop down afterwards.
However! Some lenses do have focus shift issues most notably that I can think of is the modern Zeiss 50mm F1.4. Something to be aware of and you can easily test for in your lenses.
FlyPenFly wrote:
You should always focus with the wides aperture possible since that'll be the narrowest point of focus. Stop down afterwards.
However! Some lenses do have focus shift issues most notably that I can think of is the modern Zeiss 50mm F1.4. Something to be aware of and you can easily test for in your lenses.
FlyPenFly wrote:
You should always focus with the wides aperture possible since that'll be the narrowest point of focus. Stop down afterwards.
However! Some lenses do have focus shift issues most notably that I can think of is the modern Zeiss 50mm F1.4. Something to be aware of and you can easily test for in your lenses.
There's no real downside to focusing stopped down except maybe in low light where the LCD/VF digital gain will make the preview too grainy. Focusing stopped down does increase the "play" of what's in focus so maybe you wont nail the DOF center exactly but you'll still get what you want in focus and you can always view the LCD/VF to see the full DOF and alter if necessary to get the desired foreground/background DOF balance.
I find focusing wide-open and stopping down doesn't work well because the act of having to move the aperture ring is enough to shift the camera plane and move your focus point, esp for close-range subjects handheld where DOF is limited.
