I have about 3 Tago chips on my adapters. They all confirm AF with reasonable accuracy (but the best accuracy is LiveView of course). For one lens, Leica 35mm f2, I did have to do micro-adjust on Tago chip to deal with back focusing.
I change the chip to MF mode as the chip cannot AF confirmed with aperture narrower than f5.6. This allows me to shoot at will. I am suspecting the manual is trying to say that the AF confirmation in AF mode will be more accurate than the AF confirmation in MF mode. As in MF mode, the confirmation is quite off.
shogo73 wrote:
Did you need to do micro tuning to get accurate focusing? Or you decided to do this to get even better focus? I mean, did your chip work okay in the default setting? (9 of 1-17 in command F8)
I've just converted my 50mm Summicron to a Leitax mount with the Dandelion chip. For an addition of EUR 5.00 I saved the hassle of trying to glue it myself.
My lens back-focussed a bit and I have successfully micro adjusted it from 09 to 06 and it is working fine. No problem with setting of aperture and focal length. By choice I set it at MF, hence do not experience the problem you have with AF.
I am happy with the Dandelion and Leitax and have just placed an order for three more, two for my 28mm and 90mm and one in anticipation of the purchase of a 180mm 2.8 (E67) when I find one.
In case anyone who is considering trading with Leitax, David Llado provides excellent after-sales service.
Thanks. I will try adjusting the back or front focus.
Does your 10x or 5x live view magnification work in MF mode?
Does your green illumination (all of the display not just the confirmation dot) in the viewfinder suddenly flash (burst of green illumination)?
shogo73 wrote:
Thanks. I will try adjusting the back or front focus.
It is quite easy after getting some advice from a member "ersatz" I was able to identify that my lens was back-focussing. Please see my thread dd 14Jun "Dandelion Focus Confiramation".
As for the lights my 5D will give off a bib sound together with the green dot lighting up when a subject is in focus. My 5D does not have live view and I set the Dandelion at MF. I use only the centre AF point for focusing and it lights up in red when a subject is in focus.
I read through this post before trying my luck with it, and had some good success. I mounted a TagoTech chip on a Rokkor 100mm f/2 lens that has a permanent EF mount conversion installed. I did place the little black support piece on the back of the chip first. Then, using the white plastic arm guide that came with the chip, lined up the chip/support part on the mount and superglued in it place. One of the above posters mentions sanding the contacts after installing it, and that is great advice. I had to score mine as well, even though I was very careful to not get any glue on the contacts. There must be some residue on the chip from the manufactuing process. Programming the aperture and focal length was easier than I thought it'd be as well. You just have to read the instructions very carefully. I touched up the white superglue with a model car paint pen (the EF mount is black), and everything works great. This was a very nice addition of function to the lens, and didn't cost more than it should.
It should go without saying (considering the small scale of the parts involved), but things are made easier by having some tools on hand to manipulate the chip and support pieces. Tweezers, very small needlenose pliers, whatever. The parts are awfully small to handle with your fingers and try to glue in place without it moving around.
I fitted a Tago chip to my Samyang 85mm and it's working great with my EOS 7D.
I tacked it with superglue to start with and when it was working OK, used 5 min epoxy to make it secure.
I had to adjust the on-chip calibration to 5 to get best focus results, but now when it hits focus it's amazingly accurate. It doesn't hit every time, but that's not surprising. But I can push the shutter down all the way, turn the focus ring slowly and when it hits focus the pic is taken. It gets accurate focus about 75% of the time using this technique.
If I have time and the target is slow moving then liveview is still better. But the take-pic-on-focus technique is very useful.
Here's a test pic I took, first is whole frame then 100% crop. Just jpegs, straight from the cam, no extra sharpening or anything. Used the shoot-on-focus method. Note that the cars in the focus point are almost a mile away (I measured with google earth)
I am also about to find out which glue is right for the tago. my actual T2-EOS-adapter has easy contac twith camera when chip is attached. only dont know yet how to treat surfaces before glueing.
Maybe after using abrasive(paint on adapter completely removed anyway also with abrasive) acetone must be used to degrease. should abrasive also used on the chip-base?
Then which glue: This one? gel or not gel? http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htm
the tip on an older thread with double-tape is convincing. found out its important to test adapter with double-tape first. but i am unsure if chip is also moving when turing adapter back and forth. if not moving then it will move when into wrong position when glued.
