Looks like a great combination your HFT 35 and Speed booster. I am curious if this combination on a NEX-7 is in the same leaque as when you put this lens on a 5DII or 6D. What do you think?
sculptormic wrote:
Leadygonzales, nice work from Paris!
Looks like a great combination your HFT 35 and Speed booster. I am curious if this combination on a NEX-7 is in the same leaque as when you put this lens on a 5DII or 6D. What do you think?
Can't wait for mine to arrive...
hi,
thanks
.. there a pros & cons ...
5-10x magnifiction helps a lot for focussing
5DII has a nicer rendering in jpg (up to now for my taste) i will check raw for nex in LR4
5DII hits the rear element at infinity
nex + sb has a 1.07 crop
...
however, i have a steady progress and actually the non satisfying part is more the nex than the SB.
i, will practise ...
looking forward to seeing the first pictures from you with this lens and SB
Robert & Wilhelm, C/Y 1.4/35 and old cars make me doubt every time did I choose right when I went to ZE-version. Really nice shots, thanks for posting.
BTW. People seem mostly shooting wide open, does the C/Y bokeh improve/smoothen when closed down to f/2, f/2.2, f/2.5 (I know there is no "click" between f/2 and f/2.8 but when I shoot with C/Y lenses e.g. 1.7/50 I all the time shoot between f/2 and f/2.8 since the "sweet spot" between quality and amount of bokeh is there)? Does it loose the "3D" if you do that? The ZE version improves in bokeh quality, specially in corners.
Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 1.4/35 @ f/2, 1/4000s - larger
Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 1.4/35 @ f/2, 1/4000s - larger
ceder wrote:
Lovely shots!
How do you do your stitches? Tripod? Special head? How much overlaps etc? I never done it...
Thanks ceder!
No, that's the beauty of it, no special equipment at all just common sense. Overlap in your mind and keep a horizon. Here at FM there are multiple examples of beautiful stitches with many more images than say 3-4. In those cases you may need to take some more care like working in a spiral (hard) or an imaginary row-by-row scheme (slightly easier).
Then select File/Automate/Photomerge in Photoshop. That's more or less it.
Samuli Vahonen wrote:
BTW. People seem mostly shooting wide open, does the C/Y bokeh improve/smoothen when closed down to f/2, f/2.2, f/2.5 (I know there is no "click" between f/2 and f/2.8 but when I shoot with C/Y lenses e.g. 1.7/50 I all the time shoot between f/2 and f/2.8 since the "sweet spot" between quality and amount of bokeh is there)? Does it loose the "3D" if you do that? The ZE version improves in bokeh quality, specially in corners.
Samuli
imo, the c/y version doesn't improve bokeh much on stopping down. the corner bokeh gets a little less crazy (they are worse than the Z* btw), but in general there isn't much bokeh softening with stopping down. when you add the octagons from the non-rounded aperture blades (or even worse the triangles from the rollei) it often doesn't make a whole lot of sense to stop it down for reasons other than dof or cross the frame sharpness.
i don't have any longer distance comparisons (which is where it actually matters), but here is the same shot with the c/y (on aps-c unfortunately) at various apertures:
