No, LoL
I did not have time to play before an event so I took everything with me to the hotel. The PLM and CC arrived on the same day so boxes and all were loaded into the trunk!!
derek walter wrote:
So to use the light meter aspect, do you take the cc off the camera and use it at your subject like a regular light meter?
Hope this answers your question:
16. USING YOUR METER
Stand at the subject position and point the dome on the back of the flashmeter toward the camera.
Press METER (right joystick), This will take a reading of channel 1 only. The yellow dash that corresponds to the scale in yellow along the left side will appear, as will the digital f-stop reading at the top (similar to Screen 16).
Continue this process on each active channel. As you scroll through the channels you will see the metered f-stop from each individual light.
If you now adjust the flashpower of any channel from CyberCommander, its captured f-stop reading will be altered accordingly, as will the position of its yellow dash. This allows you to set the resulting f-stop to exactly what you want by changing flashpower, without the need to re-meter.
Note - after you have captured flashmeter readings, changing the ISO will automatically update each captured reading. Changing the exposure time will not .
I should get mine tomorrow, but looking at the images here, I'm kind of thinking I'd rather Paul had been a bit less ambitious and set the screen to show fewer lights with broader bars. Although the old Radio Remote 1 required cycling through each light individually, the big screen was easy to see.
But I'll find out tomorrow whether my fear is ungrounded.
If you now adjust the flashpower of any channel from CyberCommander, its captured f-stop reading will be altered accordingly, as will the position of its yellow dash. This allows you to set the resulting f-stop to exactly what you want by changing flashpower, without the need to re-meter.
To me, this alone makes it worth the price of admission. Seems like it would be a real time saver.
16. USING YOUR METER
Stand at the subject position and point the dome on the back of the flashmeter toward the camera.
Press METER (right joystick), This will take a reading of channel 1 only. The yellow dash that corresponds to the scale in yellow along the left side will appear, as will the digital f-stop reading at the top (similar to Screen 16).
Continue this process on each active channel. As you scroll through the channels you will see the metered f-stop from each individual light.
If you now adjust the flashpower of any channel from CyberCommander, its captured f-stop reading will be altered accordingly, as will the position of its yellow dash. This allows you to set the resulting f-stop to exactly what you want by changing flashpower, without the need to re-meter.
Note - after you have captured flashmeter readings, changing the ISO will automatically update each captured reading. Changing the exposure time will not ....Show more →
That's the explanaition I've been waiting for... going to have to get this thing.
The best way to us CC is to always leave a CST on your camera. It will trigger the lights according to the CC setup. This way you don't have to take the CC off your camera to make measurements. Put it in your pocket or cell phone pouch.
CC has a battery life of around 1 year when idle. It's battery life is about 3 hours of LCD-on time (10,000 seconds). If you set the on time to 10-15 seconds in the advanced setup menu, and set the brightness as low as practical this will extend the LCD on time battery life. At 10 seconds, you will have about 1000 adjustment cycles, so battery life depends on the number of adjustments (LCD on cycles) you make per day - 50 per day = 20 day battery life. If you set a long LCD on time, you can put CC to back to sleep by holding in the left button for about two seconds to conserve battery.
If you put CC on your hotshoe the LCD will remain off when you shoot - it acts just like the CST - wakes up instantly, sends a 256usec fire command, then back to sleep, so the batteries will last close to a year. minus the amount of LCD on-time used for adjustments.
The SD card should always remain in the CC as it stores everything you do. But you can take the card out and into a Mac/PC card reader to make backups, etc. You can then burn this data (text file) back to another Micro SD card if you want an SD Card backup.
Paul Buff wrote:
The best way to us CC is to always leave a CST on your camera. It will trigger the lights according to the CC setup. This way you don't have to take the CC off your camera to make measurements. Put it in your pocket or cell phone pouch.
CC has a battery life of around 1 year when idle. It's battery life is about 3 hours of LCD-on time (10,000 seconds). If you set the on time to 10-15 seconds in the advanced setup menu, and set the brightness as low as practical this will extend the LCD on time battery life. At 10 seconds, you will have about 1000 adjustment cycles, so battery life depends on the number of adjustments (LCD on cycles) you make per day - 50 per day = 20 day battery life. If you set a long LCD on time, you can put CC to back to sleep by holding in the left button for about two seconds to conserve battery.
If you put CC on your hotshoe the LCD will remain off when you shoot - it acts just like the CST - wakes up instantly, sends a 256usec fire command, then back to sleep, so the batteries will last close to a year. minus the amount of LCD on-time used for adjustments.
The SD card should always remain in the CC as it stores everything you do. But you can take the card out and into a Mac/PC card reader to make backups, etc. You can then burn this data (text file) back to another Micro SD card if you want an SD Card backup....Show more →
Thanks Paul. This is really great info. that can be used and hopefully added to the manual for all to read.
Plus instructions on how to setup an XSeries light that has "Full" and "1/4" modes on only one CSR+.(As two seperate lights).
And....do the lights and CSR+s need to be connected and turned on before the setup is performed? This info. seems to be missing from the manual. But I could be wrong.
Appreciate the photos. Looks like a Geek's delight
FWIW - I've found Energizer batteries to be the most leak prone brand I've used. I've had better luck with the Duracell copper tops I buy in bulk at Costco.
Uh Oh, looks like I might have some JrX's up for sale as soon as the Commander is readily available again.
Once you've done adjustments behind the camera, it's hard to imagine doing it the old way again.
