p.2 #7 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
Suggest a Hoya 3 position Rubber lens hood -
Ebay item # 250428452398
$16.95 and Free Shipping ( assume outside of USA might charge for shipping )
I use these on most of my lenses, the rear position is for wide angle and the Red Ring at the front of the shade turns any lens into an Instant "L" lens.
I know you are looking for a hard lens hood, but actually the quality rubber hoods protect a lens quite well also.
p.2 #11 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
ACElkins wrote:
Suggest a Hoya 3 position Rubber lens hood -
Ebay item # 250428452398
$16.95 and Free Shipping ( assume outside of USA might charge for shipping )
I use these on most of my lenses, the rear position is for wide angle and the Red Ring at the front of the shade turns any lens into an Instant "L" lens.
I know you are looking for a hard lens hood, but actually the quality rubber hoods protect a lens quite well also.
Well, that's not what I'm looking for but as there is no original item it will do for now. Assuming shipping costs to Israel are reasonable (I've asked the seller) I'll buy it and continue thinking about a DIY lens hood.
p.2 #13 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
I am constantly amazed at the amount of info I'm getting here. Thank you very much. I nearly bought the rubber one but the short aluminum lens hood looks much better to me. I have a friend which is a machine engineer (sp.?). I'll ask him about trimming the long one.
p.2 #14 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
It turned out that precise chipping of aluminum is extremely expensive: 250$. Thus I eventually bought both the rubber one mentioned above and a metal one from e-bay.
p.2 #15 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
Yakim Peled wrote:
It's a replacement hood (I prefer an original one)
I cannot speak for other retailers, but generally when an item is listed as a replacement it means (for example) the lens came with one of these and you lost it and want to replace what you lost with another identical item. Replacement usually doesn't mean it's some sort of lesser copy, but a duplicate of an original.
p.2 #16 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
I use the Contax Metal Hood system with many lenses, including my M645 C 35/3.5N. The Metal Hood 2 starts to vignette at about 8mm shift, and the Hood 1 at about 12mm.
p.2 #17 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
Yakim Peled wrote:
It turned out that precise chipping of aluminum is extremely expensive: 250$. Thus I eventually bought both the rubber one mentioned above and a metal one from e-bay.
You can sand-down an aluminum one on a cheap belt sander in 5 minutes. I know, because I've done it. (just use really good, aluminum oxide or similar belts) You don't need the precision edge obtained by milling.
-But if I were you I'd stick to the rubber, as it will absorb more shock. At some point you really should consider a rectangular hood, or one with a sliding front, or a bellows.
p.2 #18 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
henryp wrote:
I cannot speak for other retailers, but generally when an item is listed as a replacement it means (for example) the lens came with one of these and you lost it and want to replace what you lost with another identical item. Replacement usually doesn't mean it's some sort of lesser copy, but a duplicate of an original.
p.2 #19 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
jcolwell wrote:
I use the Contax Metal Hood system with many lenses, including my M645 C 35/3.5N. The Metal Hood 2 starts to vignette at about 8mm shift, and the Hood 1 at about 12mm.
I'm a silly goose indeed. I completely forgot about shifting.
Good to have you back my dear friend. I missed you. I hope you got some good canoe shots.
p.2 #20 · Seeking lens hood for the Mamiya M645 35/3.5 N
Cableaddict wrote:
You can sand-down an aluminum one on a cheap belt sander in 5 minutes. I know, because I've done it. (just use really good, aluminum oxide or similar belts) You don't need the precision edge obtained by milling.
-But if I were you I'd stick to the rubber, as it will absorb more shock. At some point you really should consider a rectangular hood, or one with a sliding front, or a bellows.
