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Archive 2009 · Mt Everest...which camera?

  
 
lou f
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p.2 #1 · Mt Everest...which camera?


http://www.bythom.com/solar.htm


Aug 03, 2009 at 04:24 PM
Ariel Bravy
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p.2 #2 · Mt Everest...which camera?


I have a friend who recently went to the Everest basecamp with a 5D2 and 24-70. Came back with amazing pictures and had no issues that I know of. Just bring a few extra batteries and do the temperature tricks people here suggest and you should be a-okay.


Aug 03, 2009 at 08:22 PM
mrladewig
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p.2 #3 · Mt Everest...which camera?


A fellow from Golden, CO takes an H2D up in the himalaya, so its definitely doable with digital. link That said, I love the look of film scanned and the increased DR of color negative could be a real saving grace up there. I would recommend Portra 160VC and 160NC when the light is particularly harsh and Kodak High Definition 400 for hand held shots while hiking (1/FL does not apply when hiking at high altitude, at least not for me). If the light is not too harsh (less than 8 stops DR), I might consider Ektar 100 for its higher saturation and contrast.

Based on the photography I've seen from the region, if I felt I needed to use a slide film I would only consider using a wider latitude variety such as E100G, Provia or Astia. Despite their stunning colors, I would avoid E100VS and Velvia if I wanted to retain any shadow detail.

In my selection of fully manual cameras I have my 4X5 tachihara and its lenses and a pair of Pentax SP bodies. I've used them all in temps down to -10F without trouble and I'm certain I could go much lower with the 4X5 if the shutters have been CLA'd. If you really want to go fully manual, in that environment I would use a spot meter such as the Pentax Digital or Sekonic 558. For 35mm, I usually use a Canon EOS3 and I would have no doubts that it would work fine through a long hike such as this with a spare 2CR5 battery. The batteries last through several dozen rolls of film. The metering and AF systems are great. The weather sealing is Canon 1 class. And the body can be found for $150-$250. In the Nikon camp, the F5 and F6 are much more expensive, but if you're shooting Nikon, they would be worth it.

andrewd01 highlighted one of the biggest problems of hiking with a camera. The weight is uncomfortably draped on your neck. Get a set of Think Tank's Camera Support Straps (or Kinesis' version which actually looks better to me) and the shoulder harness of your pack will take the weight instead. Best camera accessory ever.



Aug 03, 2009 at 11:40 PM
mrladewig
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p.2 #4 · Mt Everest...which camera?


omarlyn wrote:
(Not speaking from experience...) but I remember reading from the late/great adventure photographer, Galen Rowell, that his (film) cameras had to be de-lubed because normal lubricants would congeal at very low temps and make the cameras difficult to operate. I'm not sure that this would pertain to modern Digital cameras as they use much less (and different) lubricant.

Omar


This is true and other photographers have reported the same in many formats. The lubes typically slow down the shutter speeds in an unpredictable manner, but long term use without lubrication has its risks as well.

andrewd01 mentioned the LX-3 and after a while using it, I would not recommend this camera (or the G9/G10 or any other compact) for this environment. The biggest IQ weakness in the camera is compressed DR compared to what you'll be accustomed to with a dslr. You can see this reported at DXOMark, but from experience I can tell you even with its RAW files, I'm frequently loosing the light tones in clouds and the shadow details. The DR is so limited that it makes slide film look good. I'm also unsure of the durability of the camera. I dented the back of mine in a light fall and it pushed a button in causing the camera to be unusable until I got home. I like the camera alot, but it has some weaknesses.



Aug 03, 2009 at 11:45 PM
dasams
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p.2 #5 · Mt Everest...which camera?


mrladewig wrote:
I would recommend Portra 160VC and 160NC when the light is particularly harsh and Kodak High Definition 400 for hand held shots while hiking. I might consider Ektar 100 for its higher saturation and contrast. I would only consider using a wider latitude variety such as E100G, Provia or Astia.


You've highlighted the beauty of digital over film: the ability to adjust ISO on the fly. dave



Aug 04, 2009 at 05:55 AM
Mickey
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p.2 #6 · Mt Everest...which camera?


One more thing. If you decide to shoot film you won't know until you get home if you got "the shot" or not. If not, it'll be too late. Enough folks here have related live experience there using digital. I'd take their word for it. I used to shoot film in Alaska at sub-zero temps and I can tell you from live experience that they WILL freeze up.


Aug 04, 2009 at 08:48 AM
mrladewig
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p.2 #7 · Mt Everest...which camera?


mrladewig wrote:
I would recommend Portra 160VC and 160NC when the light is particularly harsh and Kodak High Definition 400 for hand held shots while hiking. I might consider Ektar 100 for its higher saturation and contrast. I would only consider using a wider latitude variety such as E100G, Provia or Astia.


dasams wrote:
You've highlighted the beauty of digital over film: the ability to adjust ISO on the fly. dave


I've also highlighted the weakness of digital. A wide latitude film such as the first 3 I recommended will far exceed the dynamic range of any digital camera on the market today and in my opinion the non-linear nature in the highlights and shadows looks more natural. And generally as you crank up the ISO, you lose DR when you'll probably need it more. On film, higher ISO usually results in some increase in latitude (but with an increase in grain). The other beauty of film is that you can choose a film and inherit the look of that film. There are subtle differences in the color, saturation and contrast produced by various films. With a scanner, you then have all the advantages of the film, plus the advantages of digital.

With a decent film camera, you can rewind mid-roll, leave the tab out and get back to that point on that roll later without any trouble. It only takes a moment longer to switch rolls and note the exposure count on the roll. With a sharpie to mark an alignment point and some experience for the feel on rewind or a film tab extractor, you can do this on a fully manual camera too. Its not a big deal to have the right film in the camera at the right time.


Mickey wrote:
One more thing. If you decide to shoot film you won't know until you get home if you got "the shot" or not. If not, it'll be too late. Enough folks here have related live experience there using digital. I'd take their word for it. I used to shoot film in Alaska at sub-zero temps and I can tell you from live experience that they WILL freeze up.


There have been plenty of times with digital when I thought I got the shot, but didn't. The crummy LCDs and the funky method of showing RAW files result in a situation where you can't tell when the image is subtly blurred or not. Even the blinkies may not be reliable in regards to blown highlights. The way to know you've got the shot is experience. You have to have been in that situation before, reviewed the results and found your limits and success and know how you reached them.

Those are just my opinions.

As others have indicated, you'll be fine to use a digital SLR and a solar panel. I have no greater concerns about my DSLR in extreme cold than I have about my film SLRs.



Aug 04, 2009 at 09:39 AM
Kiron Kid
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p.2 #8 · Mt Everest...which camera?


Nikon FM or FM-2. Use lithium batteries and no motor drive or film winder. Been there dione that. use the little Duracell or Eveready lithiums that are commonly found at many Supermarkets, They work great in extreme cold. You'll be good to go with that setup. Also, the Portra films (160VC & 400VC) are fantastic films which yield great colors and flesh tones.

Kiron Kid



Aug 04, 2009 at 10:13 AM
HerbChong
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p.2 #9 · Mt Everest...which camera?


the only important issues you have are weight, size, and recharging your batteries. at base camp, temps are irrelevant during climbing season. shooting film for mountaineering hasn't been required for years.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/mountain-climbing.shtml

Herb...



Aug 04, 2009 at 01:08 PM
andrewd01
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p.2 #10 · Mt Everest...which camera?


mrladewig wrote:
This is true and other photographers have reported the same in many formats. The lubes typically slow down the shutter speeds in an unpredictable manner, but long term use without lubrication has its risks as well.

andrewd01 mentioned the LX-3 and after a while using it, I would not recommend this camera (or the G9/G10 or any other compact) for this environment. The biggest IQ weakness in the camera is compressed DR compared to what you'll be accustomed to with a dslr. You can see this reported at DXOMark, but from experience I can tell you even with its RAW files,
...Show more

Just to clarify, my recommendation for the LX3 was only as a backup. Definitely take a DSLR as main cam, but if anything happens to the DSLR it is good to have a backup and a point and shoot doesn't weigh much. Also great for when you want to be inconspicuous in the villages etc.



Aug 04, 2009 at 02:39 PM
mrladewig
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p.2 #11 · Mt Everest...which camera?


andrewd01 wrote:
Just to clarify, my recommendation for the LX3 was only as a backup. Definitely take a DSLR as main cam, but if anything happens to the DSLR it is good to have a backup and a point and shoot doesn't weigh much. Also great for when you want to be inconspicuous in the villages etc.


I can agree on that!



Aug 04, 2009 at 04:49 PM
dasams
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p.2 #12 · Mt Everest...which camera?


mrladewig wrote:
It only takes a moment longer to switch rolls and note the exposure count on the roll. With a sharpie to mark an alignment point and some experience for the feel on rewind or a film tab extractor, you can do this on a fully manual camera too.film SLRs.


Not at -30F. OK, in many situations, it's only 0F or even warmer so it is doable. But up high, in the cold, thin air, the advantages of digital far outweigh those of film. BTDT. dave



Aug 04, 2009 at 08:31 PM
Matthew Scott
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p.2 #13 · Mt Everest...which camera?


Hi jmana,
Three years ago I spent a month (Oct 15-Nov 15) trekking and climbing in the Khumbu, up to about 6000m. My daypack was mostly camera stuff, and weighed about 35 lb, but that could very easily have been cut in half by taking less camera gear. Last time I took along a fairly large video camcorder (Sony HDR-FX1) that uses tape, a small Sony HDR-HC3 that also uses tape, and digital still cameras (a point and shoot and a Nikon D200). I had no problems with cold affecting the cameras at any point. The cameras always worked well even when it was snowing and the wind blew. Most of the time it wasn't very cold (a fair bit of the hiking was done without a jacket and in shorts), though it may well be cold by the time you reach base camp and you're sure to have some days of fairly bitter wind. As others recommend, keep a battery warm in your pocket. I'll be going again two months from now, and intend to take more or less the same amount of gear (D300 and Canon G9, and camcorders like last time). Another advantage of digital, for making new friends, is that the Sherpa kids love to see themselves in pictures, and in videos.
I used the Nikon 18-200 as a great travel lens (and that alone would be enough for many people), but in order to take pictures of distant peaks I also used the 70-200 f/2.8 with a teleconverter. If you want to deal with the weight, an even wider angle lens (eg 12-24) is good for looking up at those incredible peaks and still capturing the valleys. Brian, above, is right about the weight, which is why I used the heavier cameras while trekking and the lighter ones for climbing. While I was trekking the lighter cameras were securely in small Pelican cases with my other gear (carried by yaks or porters in duffle bags). The battery charger, solar panel, cleaning tools, etc were all on the yaks. While trekking you'll be carrying mainly some clothes, water, camera, and a little food. There are teahouses frequently along your route and you won't need to carry much in the way of drinks or food.
One thing that helped tremendously with comfort was to mount some quick release straps for the D200 on the shoulder straps of my daypack. That took the weight of the SLR off my neck. While trekking one is more often too hot than too cold, and I found that drops of sweat can fall onto the flash mount of the SLR and corrode it, so it's good to have a quick cover for the camera-maybe just a light stuff sack. While trekking you don't want to have to go into your pack all the time, so figure out a plan so that the camera is handy. I typically carried a light tripod with the camcorder on it, which doubled as a walking stick, and had the D200 hanging from the front of my day pack. That way I could quickly stop, film or photograph a young yak or Ama Dablam or Mt. Everest or something, and be on my way promptly.
For charging batteries I used a Brunton solar panel. You may want to get an after-market charger for your camera if the regular charger doesn't have a automobile cigarette lighter type plug, since that's what the solar panel uses. It is of course helpful if different members of your group coordinate equipment (even lenses) to back up any piece that might get damaged, lost by the airlines, or stolen. [In the Khumbu people are wonderfully friendly and wonderfully honest, so once you get there you'll probably be fine with respect to theft.]
You didn't ask but a big issue is always how to back up your photos. With film, you can't. With digital, you can transfer copies to an iPod or to a dedicated photo storage drive like an Epson P-3000 or Colorspace UDMA drive.
The Khumbu is a magical place filled with fascinating subjects for photography and video, so have a great time and show us some pictures when you're back!
Best wishes,
Matt



Aug 04, 2009 at 09:06 PM
John Power
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p.2 #14 · Mt Everest...which camera?


You might also consider just renting a travelogue video of Mt. Everest from your local library. You will save tons of money and you can take photos of the TV screen in the comfort of your climate controlled living room.

Highly recommended. I know others may ridicule this post but think about it. It just makes sense. You can crop the photos so as to eliminate the TV screen edges and no-one will know the real truth.



Aug 06, 2009 at 02:39 PM
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