The earlier suggestions of a speedlight and a 50 F/1.8 are bang-on, especially the lens. If you can't do something about the tripod yet, try using the self-timer or a remote shutter release. A cheap reversing ring opens up macro photography for you as well.
Oh, and $20 on ebay should net you a workable EOS film camera. Shoot a roll or two for a laugh.
Cubibubi wrote:
I sure plan to expand my collected, and probably upgrade to a better body (at least 40D).
Don't rush, the 450 is fine. What were you hoping to change with a new body?
I just checked the Vivitar 550FD, and according to the website:
8V, according to Ted Felix —
only 4.24V, per Stephen Sugiyama, and
5V per Timothy Horn (serial 0031524) — but
6.66V from Rick Zotz, 7.5V from Tri Do, and
10.18V (serial 5031715) by John D. Duvall...
other Vivtar flashes come up to 300V, but this one seems to be alright.
I still thank you a lot for warning me.
Earlier Canon DSLRs (10D, 300D) had mechanical shutters, which could be damaged by any trigger voltage over 6V. Current Canon DSLRs (starting circa 350D) have electronic shutters, which can handle up to 250V. Don't take my word as a warranty, but you should be fine with a flash that by all accounts triggers under 12V.
Later on you might want to check out a 430EX. ETTL metering is really handy, especially in tricky lighting where you'd otherwise be fiddling with power settings constantly.
Cubibubi wrote:
Then, do you think a 50mm f/1.8 would be good? Should I looked for low F-stop lenses? Then, did you have problems with primes (missed the shots because couldn't zoom in/out)?
A 50/1.8 is a great idea. I don't think you really NEED it if you can master the flash, but it's great to shoot in available light, and the short DOF you get at f/1.8 looks a lot different than what you'll get from your 55-250 at f/4. It's the best bang for the buck you can get.
I got a question about the flash: would it be possible (i think somebody mentioned that) just to buy an adapter for between the flash and camera, to be 100% sure it won't try the camera?
Chris Cooke wrote:
DO NOT ATTACH THE FLASH TO THE CAMERA!!! The worse that will happen is that you will FRY the circuit board of the camera! No warranty will cover it and you will need to buy a new body! There is a very short burst of electricity that is given off by the flash when it is triggered. Modern flashes will use very low votage ( i think my alien bees are a 6volt or 9volt). Older flashes can be a couple HUNDRED votls!!! Modern Cameras cant handle that! Even a New Vivitar 285 I think will still be to high of a sync votage!...Show more →
You'll be alright...no, don't attach that flash to the camera...wait, maybe it will work...no way I would use that flash with the camera...your gear is fine...no, your flash will fry your camera...go ahead and use what you've got...
If this thread doesn't convince you, nothing will--don't believe everything you read on an internet forum!
In my experience, Chris was correct in suggesting that you not use a 20-year-old Vivitar on a new DSLR. But I don't believe his comment about the new Vivitars having too high a voltage was correct. The new Vivitars have a sync voltage of six volts which should be fine with today's DSLRs. That's one reason that particular flash unit was updated...the old Vivitars had a sync voltages upwards of 200+ volts! At the very least, I would strongly suggest you check the voltage of your current flash to make sure it's not going to fry your DSLR. Heck, I would check the sync voltage of a new 285, if I were you.
But don't take my word for it. Research your specific flash and check the voltage and go from there.
Without being aware of the danger, I used a Vivitar 285 on my 30D with no ill effects. However, that was just to test the flash at various settings before using it with a Mamiya film camera.
I agree that the weak link in your system is the flash - any current flash is designed to work closely with the camera body to optimize exposure. This is not to say you just put it on and forget it, but you'll get much better and more consistent exposures.
Experiment with flash exposure compensation and other tecniques like bouncing, off-camera use with a synch cord, diffusers and such. The object is always to use flash while making the lighting look as natural as possible.
Again, about the flash trigger voltage. Here's Chuck Westfall (of Canon) about what makes a given camera safe for 6V versus 250V. First question has the info:
This was written before the 350D was released. At the time, the 1-series and the 20D had electronic x-sync signals, so they could handle 250V. The older bodies (D30, D60, 10D, 300D) had x-sync signals generated by their shutter mechanisms, so using more than 6V could fry the shutter.
So, what about the XT? Here ya go, again from Chuck Westfall:
You can see here that the 350D has electronic x-sync, and can also handle 250V.
Again, don't blame me if this info is somehow bogus and you fry your flash, but I've used that exact same flash on both my 350D and 5D with no problems.
If you're really worried about the flash, a Wein Safe Sync will protect your camera from anything up to 400V:
That said, I suggest putting that $50 towards an ETTL flash. KEH has 420EX's as low as $126 at the moment, and 430EX's as low as $206. Or at least contact Chuck Westfall and ask him if the 450D also has electronic x-sync.
