This is a great topic, to the OP if you are watching this still you should pick up the questions and continue in the first post so a new person does not have to drill through them. Here is one coming from Canon 1d's. With Canon I could shoot 1 game on Card (cf) 1 then flip over to card 2 (SD) and shoot a second game. Or do the same as Nikon backup, over flow or Raw + Jepg. Can I shoot on 1 then 2 or is it only the B,OF or R+J?
That's a D3 specific question... I was aiming more for general-type question. I'm pretty sure you can overflow onto 2nd card but I don't own a D3 myself. I will play with one again in 2 days so I may answer that.
LA_Sportsman wrote:
Maybe this is off topic but why is the D-40 compatible with Pre-AI lenses and other cameras not? Seems backwards of what I'd expect?
As to what lenses fit the EOS mount answer: Most all the Nikons, Zeiss, CS etc etc. But NO replacements for the Canon 24/35 F1.4 AF and 50/85 F1.2 AF-one reason that I use both systems.
Chris Dees wrote:
Draining batteries is no real issue any more.
You can easlily get 500 shots with one load.
It takes weeks (months?) to drain the battery with only the the top LCD on.
You should be out taking pictures.
actually it is probably more like years! I say this because I still have my F5 which has this feature. I keep batteries in the camera, but rarely shoot with it anymore. I think the current batteries have been in there for at least 2 years, and the LCD exposure counter hasn't drained them yet! I actually like the always-on frame counter feature.
There are also significant differences in the flash systems.
On the Canon, there is no dedicated "fill flash" mode (the cameras make this calculation automatically based on EV levels) and "slow-sync" falsh is always active in aperture priority shooting. (You defeat this simply by putting the camera in 'M' and "pinning" the camera to whatever shutter speed you want.)
Another big difference is in how exposure compensation works. On Canon, ambient and flash EC are always independent, which makes it easy to work in lighting ratios. On the Nikon, setting EC on the camera changes *both* the ambient and flash exposure, so if you want to knock the background down by a stop, you must dial down ambient EC and then dial up flash EC.
Ergonomically, you can get used to and become comfortable with either system, but you need to be aware of the differences.
simonella_viru wrote: . yeah, i know there's another dial. it maxes out on +/-1.
It maxes out at +- 1 EV for each frame. That is how it's designed. If you want to bracket +- 2 EV you will need to do it in 5 shots. You can only bracket up to +-1 EV with three shots.
gman1339 wrote:
It maxes out at +- 1 EV for each frame. That is how it's designed. If you want to bracket +- 2 EV you will need to do it in 5 shots. You can only bracket up to +-1 EV with three shots.
aye, that's a wee bit strange, but doable. so basically if i want 3 shots of -3/0/+3 i have to shoot 7 shots and discard the ones i don't want. that's ok, just checking if i maybe missed something.
simonella_viru wrote:
aye, that's a wee bit strange, but doable. so basically if i want 3 shots of -3/0/+3 i have to shoot 7 shots and discard the ones i don't want. that's ok, just checking if i maybe missed something.
- ED (Extra Low Dispersion) Glass: A glass developed and trademarked by Nikon Corporation, used in telephoto lenses to obtain optimum correction to help prevent chromatic aberration, improving sharpness. These lenses are resistant to temperature changes, preventing focus shift problems in lenses that use calcium fluorite crystal elements.
. yeah, i know there's another dial. it maxes out on +/-1.