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Archive 2008 · Flash Duration Analisys

  
 
pwnell
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p.2 #1 · Flash Duration Analisys


PS: The whole argument Dalantech is making is that in order to stop motion, you should ignore shutter speed (assuming flash is main source of light), and instead focus on the least amount of light loss (i.e. low loss diffuser) and getting the flash as close as possible to the subject - both of which will shorten the duration of the flash, hence shorten the duration of your "effective" shutter speed and stop motion better.


Sep 10, 2008 at 11:37 PM
Dalantech
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p.2 #2 · Flash Duration Analisys


MichAg92 wrote:
someone help me out here. I understand the dpreview math about calculating ss for freezing macro motion, but I want to make sure I understand the basic argument you are advancing for the effect of flash duration. Is the basic idea that the flash is the limiting factor for "exposure speed" , therefore the shorter your flash duration, the sharper the shot becuase your effectve "exposure speed" is then shorter. If my summary above is correct, that mostly makes sense to me, except that this must assume that there is no/little exposure happening from the ambient light, right? Any ambient
...Show more

You've nailed it Amy. To test out the effects of ambient at life size and higher magnifications just set your camera to F11, 1/250 (or whatever your max flash sync speed is) and ISO 100 and take a few frames with the flash turned off. There are times when I'm shooting Violet Darters at 1x to 2x in harsh sun and I'll get a little bit of their eye(s) if the flash doesn't fire but the rest of the frame will be completely black. Most of the time, when shooting at life size and higher at F11, 1/250, and ISO 100 if the flash doesn't fire there is nothing in the frame so the flash duration is the shutter speed.

My take on all of this is that very small movements during the exposure, as little as the width of half a pixel, are enough to decrease image quality due to the level of detail in a macro image. Also if you look at what diffraction is, the spreading out of the light rays so that they hit adjacent pixels on the sensor, motion blur in macro could be easily mistaken for diffraction -IMHO the results would look the same. So what a lot of people are calling diffraction is really macro motion blur, and it's the reason why you see people posting sharp images at magnifications and apertures that you'd normally think wouldn't be that sharp. We've all seen it here on this forum repeatedly from several shooters...

I don't know if the math is accurate -if there isn't something that's been over looked. But I do know from my own experience that I get sharper images with more detail every time I change my lighting to make the flash duration shorter...



Sep 10, 2008 at 11:55 PM
Dalantech
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p.2 #3 · Flash Duration Analisys


packrobottom wrote:
how does this relate to the popup flash on my XSI. I'm shooting at 1/200. I was under the impression that's as high as I could set the flash. Is there something else I could be doing flash wise? I don't have an add on flash yet but I plan on getting one.


That's as high as you can set the shutter speed and still synchronize the flash to fire while the shutter is open. But the duration of that flash burst depends on the Fstop and the ISO you have the camera set to, what you're using for a diffuser (how much light does is block), and how close the flash is to the subject.

Think of every scene as having two lighting aspects: Natural light and flash. The level of natural light that the camera can see depends on the shutter speed, the Fstop, and the ISO. But the amount of flash that your camera can see only depends on the Fstop and the ISO -the speed of the shutter makes no difference to the flash since it will turn on after the shutter opens and turn off long before the shutter can close...

I think it's time for me to write a primer on flash photography and how it relates to macro...



Sep 11, 2008 at 12:00 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #4 · Flash Duration Analisys


pwnell wrote:
PS: The whole argument Dalantech is making is that in order to stop motion, you should ignore shutter speed (assuming flash is main source of light), and instead focus on the least amount of light loss (i.e. low loss diffuser) and getting the flash as close as possible to the subject - both of which will shorten the duration of the flash, hence shorten the duration of your "effective" shutter speed and stop motion better.


Yup

Getting the flash closer to the subject will also give you better diffusion...



Sep 11, 2008 at 12:02 AM
JimH.
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p.2 #5 · Flash Duration Analisys


Dalantech wrote:
Yup

Getting the flash closer to the subject will also give you better diffusion...


And this is one reason why I prefer macro lenses with a *short* working distance.

When you use a long focal length macro set-up, and you use flash, the flash will almost always be much farther from the subject than had you used a short focal length lens.

So you have two problems the way I see it.

1. Any diffusion you might hope to get will require much larger soft boxes or reflectors so that the effective light source will occupy the same relative "percent of the sky" for your subjects.

Anytime you're far from your subject, you're prone to red-eye and harsh shadows because the angles are "worse" and the effective size of the light source is smaller.

2. The extra distance and the additional trouble you'd need to go to to get good diffusion all cut down on the light from your flash terribly. So you end up using much longer flash pulses right when you can least afford it... namely, when using a long focal length, which naturally makes it much easier to blur things due to camera shake - just as it does when using any long focal length lens.

If you use a short focal length, and have a short working distance, you have a great advantage because even a small diffuser occupies a large percentage of the subject's "sky", and thus produces softer shadows and smoother light. And being close to the flash head(s), the subject requires a much shorter flash pulse to receive the same power. The inverse square law comes into play.

So the MP-E65 with an MT-24EX is a nice setup even with small diffusers. And the same is true for the EF-S 60 macro lens.

For those of us who shoot most of our macros hand-held, short focal lengths are very helpful.



Sep 11, 2008 at 01:00 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #6 · Flash Duration Analisys


JimH. wrote:
...For those of us who shoot most of our macros hand-held, short focal lengths are very helpful...


...because you can use cheap tricks like holding onto the flower the critter is on with your left hand and rest the lens on that some hand to keep everything steady and avoid all camera shake. So working distance can actually work against you...

BTW: You're dead on Jim -getting good artificial light with a long focal length lens and short flash durations is a big problem...

Edited on Sep 11, 2008 at 01:24 AM



Sep 11, 2008 at 01:23 AM
Eyvind Ness
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p.2 #7 · Flash Duration Analisys


Dalantech wrote:
BTW: You're dead on Jim -getting good artificial light with a long focal length lens and short flash durations is a big problem...


I'm not so sure about that. This with the MT24EX and 300mm Sigma (150 + 2x TC), at 2:1, I should add:

http://eyvindness.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p435831952-5.jpg


Edited on Sep 11, 2008 at 02:20 AM



Sep 11, 2008 at 01:35 AM
Eyvind Ness
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p.2 #8 · Flash Duration Analisys


Funny, no response

And in the mean time, Fred Vachs at DPReview, the original flash-duration experiment designer posted this:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=29276877

Let me quote:

"So it looks like my conclusion was wrong (at least partially). The MR-14 operated in ETTL mode apparently can deliver flash pulses short enough to freeze motion even using the modified 1/f rule at high magnification. The question really is how fast is fast enough. The 1/f rule suggests that even at 5:1 a duration of 1/2000 - 1/5000 or so ought to be fast enough and these speeds can be obtained by bumping the ISO up a bit (and refraining from using f/16 which is pretty useless at such high magnifications in any case)."

:-)



Sep 11, 2008 at 09:44 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #9 · Flash Duration Analisys


You didn't post the last paragraph of that post...

"What I should try next is revisit my post on diffraction limits and show what the flash duration is for 1:1 at f/16, 3:1 at f/8 and 5:1 at f/5.6 (at various ISOs). These are the values at which I observed blurring that I contended was due to diffraction, but there was some discussion as to whether some of this may have been motion blur due to overlong flash duration. When I get the numbers maybe we can put that discussion to rest at last."

Those just happen to be the apertures that most people consider to be the "sweet spot" for the MPE-65mm and he is seeing blurred images. Somethin's not right somewhere...




Sep 11, 2008 at 09:55 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #10 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
I'm not so sure about that. This with the MT24EX and 300mm Sigma (150 + 2x TC), at 2:1, I should add:


Where were the flash heads mounted?



Sep 11, 2008 at 09:56 AM
Eyvind Ness
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p.2 #11 · Flash Duration Analisys


Fair enough, John, but can you spot any motion blur issues in my 300mm flash-shot above? If not, how come?

Ref your statement:

"-getting good artificial light with a long focal length lens and short flash durations is a big problem..."



Sep 11, 2008 at 09:59 AM
Eyvind Ness
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p.2 #12 · Flash Duration Analisys


Dalantech wrote:
Where were the flash heads mounted?


11 o'clock and 3 o'clock, 3 clicks up from all the eway in, i.e. at 15 degrees.



Sep 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #13 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
11 o'clock and 3 o'clock, 3 clicks up from all the eway in, i.e. at 15 degrees.


Sorry: How far away from the subject?...



Sep 11, 2008 at 11:44 AM
Eyvind Ness
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p.2 #14 · Flash Duration Analisys


Dalantech wrote:
Sorry: How far away from the subject?...


around 40cm. Is this a pop-quiz?



Sep 11, 2008 at 11:45 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #15 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
Fair enough, John, but can you spot any motion blur issues in my 300mm flash-shot above? If not, how come?

Ref your statement:

"-getting good artificial light with a long focal length lens and short flash durations is a big problem..."


By good I mean short duration and diffusion -you did well but my the light that I can get out of that same flash is a lot "softer". FWIW: 2x isn't much of a problem for stopping motion -I routinely get sharp images at 2x just by resting my elbow on my knee...

I'm really not interested in an argument: Every time I do something to lower my flash duration I get more detail in my images...



Sep 11, 2008 at 11:50 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #16 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
around 40cm. Is this a pop-quiz?


*sigh*

No -because I'm about to give up on you and you're attitude. The distance from the flash to the subject will change the duration of the flash pulse for a given exposure -get the flash close and the duration drops and diffusion gets better...



Sep 11, 2008 at 11:52 AM
Eyvind Ness
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p.2 #17 · Flash Duration Analisys


Sure. That's obvious. But you said:

"-getting good artificial light with a long focal length lens and short flash durations is a big problem..."

where is this "big problem"?




Sep 11, 2008 at 11:54 AM
Dalantech
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p.2 #18 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
Sure. That's obvious. But you said:

"-getting good artificial light with a long focal length lens and short flash durations is a big problem..."

where is this "big problem"?



Here https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/686524

I'm done with this -if you want to get in my face some more then send me a PM...



Sep 11, 2008 at 12:37 PM
JimH.
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p.2 #19 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
I'm not so sure about that. This with the MT24EX and 300mm Sigma (150 + 2x TC), at 2:1, I should add:




Ordinarily, I would not have commented on this shot because I don't like fueling some kind of on-line argument here.

And last night when I looked at this post, all I got was a square with a little red dot in it, and if I forced the browser to try to display the image, I got an error message from Zenfolio, stating that routine maintenance was being performed. So I couldn't even see the shot.

But given your request for comments, I guess I'll go ahead and defend my earlier post and also offer my analysis of the shot.

It's not too bad for shooting at 300mm, but....

Keep in mind that shooting with a full-frame camera at 2X is the equivalent of shooting at 1.25X with a 1.6X body (if we're presenting the full frames here, and not cropping). I find getting good, sharp shots at 1X (or 1.25X) hand-held with the 40D and the EF-S 60 or the MP-E 65 to be fairly easy. It's when we get to high magnifications that things become tricky.

And quite frankly, that shot does not look very sharp to me. I would not consider it to be a good one for me, shooting at 1.25X at 60-65mm with a 1.6X body, and I'd be looking for the cause of the softness. Either diffraction or motion blur. In this case, though, since it was taken at 300mm, I'd have my answer, and consider that I'd done well for the very difficult circumstances (longer effective virtual shutter speed coupled with long, hard to hand-hold focal length).

When I shoot at longer focal lengths for macro, I like to use an IS tele with a 250D close-up "filter". The IS can be really helpful for me.

On the second point about getting better diffusion if we shoot with the flash heads closer to the subject, it doesn't look too bad, actually. But part of that is because there is no close-in background against which we can judge the shadows due to the critter being "out on a limb" so to speak, and also, due to the lack of any fine detail, we can't judge the "microshadows" within the image either.

And the position of the highlights in the eyes is a giveaway that the light source was coming in from about the same angle as that of our view. If this was not a bug, I'd expect we'd see some "red-eye".

But in the shot's defense: A pleasing aspect of the lighting is that it seems to be more even between the main subject and the background. And I suspect that's one of the advantages of shooting with the flash heads farther from the subject.

Since the relative distances from the flash to the subject versus the flash to the background are more similar when shooting from a longer distance, we get less of that "black hole in the background" effect. So the lighting looks more like natural sunlight, which can be a plus.



Edited on Sep 11, 2008 at 12:37 PM



Sep 11, 2008 at 12:37 PM
JimH.
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p.2 #20 · Flash Duration Analisys


Eyvind Ness wrote:
Funny, no response

And in the mean time, Fred Vachs at DPReview, the original flash-duration experiment designer posted this:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=29276877

Let me quote:

"So it looks like my conclusion was wrong (at least partially). The MR-14 operated in ETTL mode apparently can deliver flash pulses short enough to freeze motion even using the modified 1/f rule at high magnification. The question really is how fast is fast enough. The 1/f rule suggests that even at 5:1 a duration of 1/2000 - 1/5000 or so ought to be fast enough and these speeds can be obtained by bumping the ISO up a bit
...Show more

Note that we are still missing the vital component here:

We do NOT know what the actual flash pulse duration was for *your* shot. But it had to be longer (due to the distance from flash-heads to subject) than it would have been had you shot with the flash heads closer to the subject. It had to be because we suffer from the inverse square law here.

The light reaching your subject will drop off as the square of the distance. And thus, the flash pulse widths required to achieve proper illumination will go up as the square of that distance.

Only at very close distances do we get short flash pulses. At longer distances, the power level has to be increased, of course.

Look at all of the test shots I posted. See what the pulse widths are at the higher power levels? We rapidly get into territory where motion blur will be a serious problem.

I'm not sure why people are seizing upon the very fastest pulses I've shown (those at 1/64th power). Those sorts of pulse durations will ONLY happen when you've got the flash heads close to the subject.

I will try to dig up my old gray card from the darkroom at my mom and dad's house when I go over there this afternoon. Then I can make some objective tests of what flash power levels are required at various magnification settings on the MP-E. And while I'm at it, I'll try some tests from longer distances too because this is another interesting aspect to all of this, I think.

That way, I can put some reasonable flash pulse durations to some typical shooting situations.

As it is, as John has pointed out, we don't really know how to correlate my power-level versus pulse width figures against our real-world shooting scenarios. And people seem to be taking my 1/64th power pulse width measurement as being, somehow, universally applicable, or proof that we're freezing movement for all of our shots.

Without any way to know what the power levels are for real shooting situations, we don't know which of the test shots I did is showing us what we want to know for any given "real world" shot.

But here's a test you can do right now:

Set up that same rig - (the 150mm lens along with the 2X extender). Get the same distance from a gray card as you were from your wasp in that shot above. Using the same camera at the same ISO and same f/stop setting, and with the MT-24EX mounted the same way you did before, set it to manual mode. Now shoot test shots at various manual flash power levels until you get the "spike" centered up in the on-camera histogram.

Then tell us what power level was required.

We can then refer to this composite image to find an approximate flash pulse width for your shot:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2208/2267782190_589c831e1f_o.jpg
1. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at 1/64 power.
2. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at 1/32 power.
3. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at 1/16 power.
4. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at 1/8 power.
5. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at 1/4 power.
6. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at 1/2 power.
7. MT-24EX Flash, One head only firing at full power.
8. MT-24EX Flash, both heads firing. A = 1/16 power, B = 1/8 power
9. MT-24EX Flash, both heads firing. A = 1/16 power, B = 1/4 power

I do need to do some testing to try to nail down approximately what we can be expecting with "real" shots.

I asked this in the thread over at dpreview, but I'll ask it again:

Wouldn't it be great if the camera would show us what power levels were used for each flash head after the shot, when we're in ETTL mode? And as John pointed out, it'd be even better if it got placed into the EXIF so we could look it up later.

As it is, we really have no way of knowing what power level was required for any given shot other than to follow up with manual mode tests, finding what power level is required to achieve the same exposure under the same circumstances. Bummer!



Edited by JimH. on Sep 11, 2008 at 11:14 AM GMT

Edited on Sep 11, 2008 at 01:14 PM



Sep 11, 2008 at 12:54 PM
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