those are not bad at all for a first try.
What you could try, if you own a flash, is to use a wireless flash to get more light. This might remove any motion blur since you seem to shoot hand held. I would also use f16-f22 instead of f32 to increase IQ. Last point, focus accuracy is really very important. If not on a tripod, what I usually do is to try to find the in-focus point by moving very slowly along the viewing axis, and to press the shutter button when the picture is sharp (instead of correcting focus on the lens).
As Guy suggests, open up your aperture and increase your shutter speed. You're in diffraction territory at such a small aperture. And be very careful with your focus.
thanks guys. im still working on it. i think doing macro on moving moving objects are very challenging and yes im doing it handheld. i was on all fours and it hurt! do you have any good resources for macro photography?
thanks!
I remember when I was shooting very fast moving ants in the woods (with film and AFD 60mm micro) for some biology projects when i was in university, i set the lens in MF mode, i wasn't really trying to focus them by turning the focus ring but instead move the camera (and arms)back and forth, fire when it's in focus (you can try to set the camera in focus piority).
I agree with Ted. Using such a small aperture is probably one of the biggest factors that caused poor quality. I would try something around f/8 or f/11. Also, ants can move pretty fast so I would recommend faster speeds... also additional lighting can't hurt. I would invest in a tripod and a cable release... just to make your life easier .
but what would a tripod really help when the object is moving, or when one has to move the camera back and forth to focus? wouldnt the tripod be hindering it?
would you also think by having a 105mm instead of a 60mm be of any help?
i had thought the IQ was due to the lens, but the 60mm macro has been and was recommended. any clue? (apart from the aperature).
Give yourself time to learn. Moving the camera in and out and judging focus at the same moment is not easy as it sounds. By the time you realize the photo is in focus, and tell your finger to press the shutter, you are out of the focus zone.
You're using more extension with the three tubes than the focal length of the lens. Your maximum focus distance is probably only inches in front of the lens and minimum distance is likely INSIDE the lens. So, too much extension.
Now, with no extension your focus is still off. Are you sure you're not too close to the ants? DOF is still thin and I'm having a hard time figuring out where the focus is, but it appears to be a little more than half way between your lens and the background. Move back and forth and use your DOF preview button to see if that helps with your focus. And try using just 20mm of extension for starters.
I would say 1/125 is not fast enough. For macros 1/focal length rule is not enough...at least that doesn't work for me.
but what would a tripod really help when the object is moving
I think that depend on subject. I was shooting some very fast moving ants so a tripod wasn't any helpful (i did have a tripod with me). But in your case, a tripod with focus rail might work since you can point the camera to the corn since the ants seems ain't moving the corn around.
I 'd try to set the aperture around 16-22 as well. on one hand you want lower diffraction but on the other hand you need to consider DOF. You need to compromise between the two. I'm not sure whether micro lens are designed better to handle diffractions, but the 60mm can go down to f64 (at 1:1) and i don't think it's a pointless setting.
the ants are very tiny? why need a ext tube? the 60 focus real close at it's cloest setting and if you put a ext tube at on top of its cloest setting you lens can easily block the light. Also, flash can be very helpful, it can give faster shutter speed and with flash you can also cut ambient light using very small aperture or very fast shutter and that will give you a very different look.
Kneepads from the flower shop would be a good investment if you plan on spending time on the ground hunting them. Seriously.
+1
note that with no extension tubes, photos are clear, crisp and sharp. but the object is not very close. i want to get to very close to objects, especially like the ants above....
I took the fence post from the garden with the 60mm marco with no tubes...
and with the extension tubes... a shot of the screw...
You need to bump that shutter speed WAY up and lower that aperture to f/11 or so. At f/32, you are diffraction limited in a big way. Get a tripod, a hand trigger and put the shutter speed at 1/500th or higher.
If you have a flash, that's always good. Put a diffuser on it so you don't get super harsh light.
ytwong wrote:
I remember when I was shooting very fast moving ants in the woods (with film and AFD 60mm micro) for some biology projects when i was in university, i set the lens in MF mode, i wasn't really trying to focus them by turning the focus ring but instead move the camera (and arms)back and forth, fire when it's in focus (you can try to set the camera in focus piority).
A flash can help too.
This is the technique I am forced to use. My only macro lens is a 105 2.8 AIS. Optically, I'm totally satisfied. But I generally shoot insects at f/16 with a diffused SB-800 off camera and in my left hand which I hold over my subject. I then slowly move the camera until it appears in focus and snap. It is a clunky method, but occasionally gets decent results.
D300 wrote:
f/11, 1/500 and a flash are these the key elements to macro?
im checking out for a dedicated macro flash. anyone has got any to recommend?
Not exactly, but a decent starting point. DOF is extremely thin in macro shots. f/8 to f/11 will result in a very limited amount of the image in focus. That can be a good thing. It depends on what you want the observer to notice in the image. Optically, this is going to usually be the sweet area of most macro lenses. Shooting at f/22-32 will result in more of the frame in focus, but you're going to lose image quality to diffraction. A work around for this is focus stacking. I can't elaborate here because I know little about it. But multiple images are taken at an aperture that yields high image qual, but at different focus points. The images are then combined for amazing results. Check the Macro forum here. Faster shutter speed helps to prevent motion of camera/subject, the same as general photography. I tend to use the fastest shutter my camera body will sync. Using flash for control of lighing and shadows in the image. Flash will generally make details in images a little more crisp with some practice.
One thing that works for me, when shooting handheld macro with a 105f/2.8, is to use continuous focus mode. (AF-C) I know it sounds strange, but try it. With your finger at half-press on the shutter (or holding down the AF-ON button) listen to focus motor constantly adjusting as you try to hold the camera still on a subject. Its especially effective with the "Lock-On" (menu a5 on a D200) set to OFF... the focus motor just purs while it keeps whatever your pointed at in focus. I've gotten many more in-focus (hand-held) macro shots like this.
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