My sister forgot to take the halter off the horse and the beastie would not leave me anywhere near it to take it off. So I had to spend about three hours removing it in post processing.
It has printed up superbly though and that's the main thing!
Oct 24, 2008 at 12:48 PM
Steve Spencer Offline • • • • • • • Upload & Sell: On
Cheers Steve,
I think there's a mutual distrust thing going on with this one though. She's just a bit on the wary side of humans, and I'm always waiting for horses to go all 'Animal Farm' on me. The Orwell version mind!
You have to be careful. When I was a child I was calmly feeding this horse some fresh grass when it suddenly swung around and bit me right in the middle of my chest. I had severe tooth drag marks right through my skin.
It was kind of traumatic at the time, but to this day I am very careful around horses.
Literally, we have tons of great images here with awesome bokeh . Regardless of the lens, it seems to me like if you include highlight points in the background, the bokeh gets busier and it doesn't appear buttery smooth anymore. This is more noticeable in outdoor shots; is that me or do others notice that?
This is shot of Nikkor f/1.4 at wide open at 1/500 sec.
AGeoJO wrote:
Literally, we have tons of great images here with awesome bokeh . Regardless of the lens, it seems to me like if you include highlight points in the background, the bokeh gets busier and it doesn't appear buttery smooth anymore. This is more noticeable in outdoor shots; is that me or do others notice that?
This is shot of Nikkor f/1.4 at wide open at 1/500 sec.
Silentlight, I used to have the 24-60 on my 5d when I first got it about 3 years ago and kind of regret selling it, as it was very nice, lightweight and reasonably HQ zoom. I am hoping the new 24-70 from Sigma can be equal at least - with HSM. Nice shot of the bird!
Also nice 55 FL shots. Take som pics with the 5d to encourage me to start working on my copy
145mm f2 petzval projection lens again, on speedgraphic 4x5 It seems to loose alot of it's signature 'swirling' when focused closer up. Or maybe because the background didn't have enough detail to really 'swirl' much.
I put some rise on the front standard to move the sharp part of the lens (which is usually the center of the image) down towards the tip of the shoe, which is why it's vignetting only on the top.
Daniel...I have to say, I'm always impressed by the look and feel of your photos. Do you do digital manipulation of your film scans, or is this darkroom work (I'm referring to the contrast / tonality of the images more than any bokeh / sharpness effects, which I'm sure are all based on the lens and film)? If it's digital, care to share any of your workflow?
Jman13 wrote:
Daniel...I have to say, I'm always impressed by the look and feel of your photos. Do you do digital manipulation of your film scans, or is this darkroom work (I'm referring to the contrast / tonality of the images more than any bokeh / sharpness effects, which I'm sure are all based on the lens and film)? If it's digital, care to share any of your workflow?
When I'm shooting and developing the film, I usually overexpose (or rather, expose so that my shadows get adequate values, which may not actually be over exposing), and then I under develop a bit, so that I have alot of shadow detail. This may not be necessary, but I'm in the habit of doing it. I scan the film flat, to keep as much shadow and highlight detail as is available.
For probably 80-90% of my photos all I usually do is one curves layer to give the contrast that I want. on remaining 10-20% of the photos I'll do some gradients as a mask for another curves layer or two, and some soft painted masks for further local contrast enhancements. I don't really like using the dodge and burn tool, because it's difficult to go back and undo or tweak those adjustments. So I've fallen into the workflow of using curves layers with masks whenever I need contrast changes local to one area of the photo. I'm glad you like them! I usually make 8x10 prints when I'm finished with the photos. I just save the print-ready file into a folder, and then once every month or two I send those files off to be printed.
Here is another example of hectic, distracting and hypnotic bokeh for you. Although soft wide open with busy frantic bokeh, I loved this lens. Photos courtesty of the
Olympus OM Zuiko 55mm f/1.2 lens wide open and a 5D:
. Regardless of the lens, it seems to me like if you include highlight points in the background, the bokeh gets busier and it doesn't appear buttery smooth anymore. This is more noticeable in outdoor shots; is that me or do others notice that?
