Does the camera switch on at all? If so, can you operate the camera and still take pictures without the aid of motor drive (that is, cocking shutter manually)?
When I first put my DMR onto the R9, I could take pictures, but without motor driven shutter. Later, I reattached the DMR after winding the film spool a couple notches, and making sure rewind button was not pressed. It has been ok ever since.
James To wrote: Does the camera switch on at all? If so, can you operate the camera and still take pictures without the aid of motor drive (that is, cocking shutter manually)?
No, the camera will not fire and the shutter can not be cocked manually (is probably already cocked) even with motor removed.
Clean the bottom contacts of the camera. also, when you attach the motor, do not make it very tight until the camera winds a couple times. this gets the drive coupler aligned properly.
Here are a few from this evening and the DMR, 19mm.
The camera was on a tripod and I used the 16second setting on manual expsoure. The 19mm lens was at f22 and infinity. It was just luck to get the two or three bursts in the first shot above.
I have a problem with my DMR, it seems as if the sensor is slightly "rotated" counterclockwise (clockwise if you look at it through the lens or opening the back).
Not that I could see it with the naked eye, but when I align the framelines correctly I end up with a slightly rotated image, I need to rotate it about 0,5° CCW to have it correctly aligned.
It doesn't seem to be a screen issue, as the DMR framelines are perfectly aligned with the screen borders, indeed if I align the image using the borders of the whole viewfinder I get again a slightly rotated image.
Problem solved, it was the door latch which was not 100% in place, Robert gave me the right answer in another forum.
I opened the back to clean the sensor and now the alignment is just perfect.
I recall I once mistakenly tried to open the back before detaching the motor and grip, maybe ending with a slightly move of the door latch, which caused the misalignment.
Btw, I never found an easier digital camera to clean!
Just open the back and gently wipe off the dust with a dedicated sensors' cleaning product.
I use Arctic Butterfly from Visible Dust, which is fast and very effective.
After only a couple of wipes I couldn't detect any dust spot even at 100% on monitor using levels to increase contrast...
AnselFan wrote:
Question: On the DMR (with corners cropped), should the 19 Elmarit look better than the 21-35 @ 21mm? By "look better", I mean perceived sharpness across the frame.
Stopped down and all other things being equal (same f-stop, etc), you would be hard pressed to tell much difference on the DMR. Wide open, the 19 should be a bit better. Most of the time, I can't tell a difference without looking at the EXIF.
AnselFan wrote:
Question: On the DMR (with corners cropped), should the 19 Elmarit look better than the 21-35 @ 21mm? By "look better", I mean perceived sharpness across the frame.
After your question regarding the 21-35mm versus 19mm I went back to look for a test shot I did with my 19mm to test its wide open performance after just comming back from Leica and a CLA.
Here is the image. Below is a link to download a high quality jpeg of this image converted with the default sharpening in Lightroom of 25,0,25 which is the same as the ACR defaults. This is shot on a tripod and wide open at f2.8. I was focusing on the trees at the end of the yard.
http://www.robsteve.com/FM/L1120816.jpg
As per Marco's request, cyan hue +8 in tint using the Lightroom adjustment panel.
That's why you'd get much better results applying a slight hue correction on cyans, instead of correcting cyan via color balance.
All other colors, which are quite good indeed, won't be affected.
I am not using Photoshop for those images, just Lightroom.
I don't think the RAW converter makes a difference because I always get this cyan comment about shot of my back yard no matter which RAW converter I use.
I have looked at the sky and looked at the pictures and the colour is correct.
Are you on a Mac by any chance? It may be a browser issue.
People tend to forget that in a sky without polution or haze, it starts at cyan around the horizon. I am at sea level, so the horizon is not too many feet above sea level in these shots.
Ever hear the expression Red Sky at night- sailors delight. That is from the particles in the air blocking the cyan, not blue. Otherwise it would be yellow sky at night sailors delight
I did the tint change, but it only makes a slight change. Flex Color on the other hand was way off compared to lightroom.
