This was shot today at Hamamatsu-jo Koen (Hamamatsu Castle Park)
There are some things I feel I didn't get quite as I wanted so I may go back and reshoot this tomorrow, but this is my entry for now Comments are appreciated.
Kanil,
I love the idea and execution, and although I think it would be a finalist, if you have an opportunity to reshoot, I would. I think the exposure could be better. Eliminate the open sky in the reflections, and open up your exposure. I think it may bring the motion of the leaves out much more. Maybe if you shot from the bridge, although the bridge does bring a nice element into the shot. In any case, my two cents, for what it is worth.
Yes, those are the things that bothered me about the photo. As for the exposure, I think this is as good as it's going to get. This one was 15 seconds long (this was shot at night in near complete darkness), and I took some longer and shorter exposures but none of them turned out as well.
Unforunately the positioning in this location is very difficult as I was standing on rocks in the middle of the water, so there's not much room for changing composition. Shooting from the bridge leaves me with an uninteresting background, so I decided against that.
I attempted to remove the reflection from the water using a polarizer, but it didn't have much effect other than just darkening the scene and making it even more impossible to focus . I believe this is because the light wasn't really sunlight but just coming from atmospheric glow.
Anyway, I may or may not have time to go to the castle again during this assignment, I'd like to possibly go shoot something else tomorrow and I'm fairly happy with the way this turned out. I'll certainly be going to the park in the future because there's many other beautiful scenes there to shoot, and in a few weeks everything should be turning nice shades of orange and red.
This is very nice Kamil. A good idea and excellent execution. Lots of leaves as well
I would really not try to take another shot like this. This one will do. I might be wrong but I think it could use a little CCW rotation to streighten it a bit.
I was planning on taking some leaves floating doen the streeampics, but your pic rocks compared to anything that I even had in my head, and they never as good in reality as what I picture.
Thanks Mark and Evren for your comments. I have debated rotating it as well, but there's really no reference that I can tell which would be "right". If you look at the small walkway in the far distance under the bridge, it appears straight. I think I will just leave as is
Great photo - definately a favorite.
Question about long exposures. I was trying for a long exposure effect as well (1st try), but had a really poor time at my attempt. I went out right before sunup and tried shooting at 30sec f25 and ended up with nothing but black. Tried BULB for about 1 minute and didn't fair much better. I had to wait until light was pretty well out before I could even get an exposure worth keeping (again 30 seconds) - which was still underexposed. Once the ligh came out though I lost exposure time fast.
Juding long exposures can be fairly hit and miss. There are some strategies involved. I'll discuss a few things...
First of all, f/25 is a *really* small aperture for using on a DSLR. You'll start hitting the diffraction limit at around f/16 and losing sharpness as a result. I usually keep my photos at f/11 or wider, only occasionally using f/16. Something like f/25 will require a really long exposure time. This photo was at f/9 and I still needed 30 seconds at ISO 400. If I had been at f/25, which is 3 stops slower, I would have required 240 seconds (2^3)*30 to get the same exposure.
The other thing is, you often need to use higher ISO. As I said, I used ISO 400. If I had stuck with 100, the exposure time would have to be 4 times long, or 120 seconds.
If I had used ISO 100 AND f/25, well, then we're looking at a 960 second exposure to get the same image, which is quite a long time to wait. Especially if you don't get the exposure right.
So yeah, basically you definitely need to open up some more, and possibly turn up the ISO depending on the conditions. One trick I use to judge exposure time is turn the ISO all the way up, and then set the aperture on the camera wide open and get the meter reading. Then I do all the f-number calculations to determine the shutter speed for my desired aperture and ISO while still getting a correct exposure.
I'm not familiar with Nikon gear, but if you plan to use bulb mode you should certainly try to find a timer remote like the Canon TC-80N3 (not sure what the Nikon equivalent would be there). I've found it to be a big help because I can dial in the precise exposure time, set up my scene, click start, and then just sit back and relax while it exposes.
Couple of other hints, for long exposures, put something over the viewfinder. Light can leak in from the back of the camera and show up in your image if your exposure is really long. A piece of cloth or a hat usually works well enough, just make sure to trigger remotely to avoid shake. A stable tripod is also highly recommended, especially if you plan to shoot somewhere windy.
Hope that helps, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks, your advise was exactly what I needed - I'm still a beginner and I was thinking the opposite - that in order to get the exposure, I "needed" to keep the shutter open as long as possible - hence the low ISO and high Fstop. I'll have to start some expermenting and get a better grasp on it.
Thanks again for your advise and tech knowledge,
Michael