As slow as you can get it and still make the pic sharp. Go down to 1/60, 1/50, etc. and see what you get. There are 12 turns at Road Atlanta, check out the track map at www.roadatlanta.com I would definitely bring the 1.4 to go with the 120-300. The extra reach can never hurt.
Shutter speeds will depend on many factors, including your distance from the subject, focal length of the lens, desired motion, and panning technique. Starting at around 1/250th and going up/down depending on the results is a good idea (review the shots as you go and adjust the shutter speeds/panning motion accordingly).
Typically, around 1/500th is good for head-on shots with no wheels visible (as it will freeze most of the motion in them and make the cars look parked). Panning at 1/320th and 1/250th is my "safety shot" speed, 1/125th or 1/180th is for bulk panning shots, and 1/100th or slower for the more extreme shots (but not a high enough keeper rate - most of the times - for shots of every car). Shooting at 1/60th and below can lead to some nice effects, but often the success rate is less than desirable for my needs. But, again, the specifics need to be worked-out for each shot desired... there is no magic setting that works for everything.
As for lenses... you'll want all the glass you can get. 120-300 should be nice for most things, but there are times you'll want the 1.4xTC as well. I don't think you'll really need the 80-200, as it will be covered with the 120-300.
-Todd...
Edit: Oh yeah, at night... all the rules go out the window... combining a little pop of fill flash (at a short duration) with a long shutter speed and high-ISO can create some very funky effects. IMO, shoot as long as you can without flash (increasing ISO as needed)... as flash will freese the wheels, making the cars look parked.
smule - great examples of the different effects achieved by various shutter speeds, but...
smule wrote:
1. at 1/80
2. at 1/60
3. at 1/640 (insurance should I miss 1 & 2)
IMO, shutter speeds don't need to be so extreme on the two ends of the range... 1/640th is too fast, and will freeze the cars on the track (your example isn't as obvious due to the black wheels with no visible spokes). For most situations and panning techniques, 1/320th is fast enough to get acceptable keeper rates. Also, the success rate (for most situations) is not really acceptable at 1/60th (or even 1/80th)... so, jumping down to speeds that slow isn't the best approach, IMO. Yes, if sharp photos can be achieved by all means use slower shutter speeds... but the success rates will not be high (and depending on your needs, unacceptable).
It is also not always the best approach, IMO, to start shooting that slow. I'm not talking about "n00bs vs. pros", but even an experienced shooters at a corner for the first time that day takes time to develop the proper panning motion.
It all depends on your angle with the car. Shooting perpindicular, go super slow. On a 3/4 front or rear angle, crank it way up to keep the car in focus. While panning, the angle shots cause some areas of the cars to move at different velocities than others with respect to the camera. Lower shutter speeds really pronouce this. Its a cool effect, just not in EvERY shot.
I agree with you, and my original post didnt make it clear. I started around 1/60, and then shot through to 1/640. With 15 laps each race, there is lots of time to practice the technique.
I shot panns at 1/50, 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125. 1/160, 1/250, 1/320, 1/400, and then took one at 1/640, so if all else fails I have a shot to work with. I often wash out everyting but the car and the road, and use that with interesting results in photoshop. For those, sharp is required.
I only posted the three examples, mainly to show 1/60 and 1/80 can work. The results at the slower speeds are hit or miss, but pretty good when you nail it.
I also find different car color combinations often look better at different speeds, based on how much light is reflected, and with the different classes at SCCA, some cars are much faster than others.
I like 1/320 as well, primarily when other cars are closeby and they interact with the image.
Some cool shots, yes, pans from the pits, I don't know about that.
If I remember, you have the paddock area, then the grid, then the track, so depending on access, shooting may be difficult there.I know they have a patio area that overlooks the grid and the front straight, but I've never actually hung out there.
Within walking distance from the pits, about 30 feet down the driveway that leads into the pits from the main entrance to the track you have a small grassy area, and you can get some nice shots from there. Cars coming at you under the bridge and heading downhill in a sweeping right turn to either the front straight or exiting the track into the pit area. A short walk from there up to the bridge that leads to the infield is another fun place to shoot from.
Either way, it will be a fun day, RA is a cool track given the elevation changes.
smule wrote:
I only posted the three examples, mainly to show 1/60 and 1/80 can work. The results at the slower speeds are hit or miss, but pretty good when you nail it.
Agreed... but there is no reason to stop at 1/60th...
regor601 wrote:
I found out we'll be in the pits. Fun for sure I would imagine but will I be able to get good pics from there ?
There are some shots the pits are great for, but for on-track stuff you're probably better off walking around a bit. My only suggesting for shooting in the pits is to stay out of the way of the teams... they are often running around most of the time. If there is somewhere you want to stand/go, get permission first.
Have fun, and share the photos! Are you going to the track tonight for the night practice session?
-Todd...
Edit: Pardon the funky formating at the bottom, I can't figure out why it is doing that...
mlavander wrote:
It all depends on your angle with the car. Shooting perpindicular, go super slow. On a 3/4 front or rear angle, crank it way up to keep the car in focus. While panning, the angle shots cause some areas of the cars to move at different velocities than others with respect to the camera. Lower shutter speeds really pronouce this. Its a cool effect, just not in EvERY shot.
Agreed - you can get the warp effect like this when shooting slow pan at a nice angle of approach
One last thing to think about...when you pan cars in braking zones they also pitch slightly so you can get some vertical motion blur...usually around the back of the car.
