I first implented this trick on a D2X and loved it so now use it on the D70. Only problem with the D70 and AF-C (and this could be just me, I dunno and why I am making the comment) I find the tracking not all that great. I don't have a great deal of success with the D70 in AF-C and I prefer to use AF-S however there are so many situations that beg AF-C only if I could get it to track consistently. I find it often tends to find another subject to focus on or it just can't keep my moving subject in focus for whatever reason.
Is it just me? I didn't think to compare the AF-C performance with the D2X when I had it and this was probably because the focus was so fast it wasn't an issue.
MichaelKirk wrote:
All shots are done on the D70s 50mm 1.8D lens. Flash mode set at TTL. Auto focus -s, single area focus, 3-d color matrix.
I can now see that the lack of sharpness is caused by camera shake....as I have been getting older my hand are not as steady anymore. Confused about the lighting though. Just seems like some of the photos are overly dark. I will take more test photos and adjust different setting for experimentation and education.
Michael
Michael
Coupling the first line above with your earlier comments about using bult in flash and A priority....Although the menu on the D70s says TTL mode, when you are in A mode with 3d matrix metering you are actually using TTl/BL or balanced fill flash. In this setup you will always see underexposure in the type of photos your have shown here.
Your photos show that you are using the flash as the key or primary lighting source to do this you need to change to either spot metering or to Manual mode to force the flash into pure TTL. This will immediately give better results...but you still may have to compensate depending on the reflectivity of the subject.
TTL/BL mode is intended for use outdoors to balance with daylight. In this flash mode the camera dliberabtely reduces flash power by anything up to 1.7 stops by design. It is intended to help with strong backlighting or to soften harsh shadows cast by direct sunlight.
final bit of info. In manual mode you can set your apperture to get the DOF you want, then set the shutter speed to one that will stop the shake. Shutter speed has no effect on flash exposure so you will still have a correctly exposed subject (provided it is within the right distance from the flash) however it will result in a change to the background exposure.
