John Power wrote:
I thought you connect the adapter to the camera and then you connect whatever EF lens you wanted to use to the adapter
If all lenses are EF then I suppose you can keep an adapter on each camera forever.
If you have mixed lenses then it's better to keep the adapter permanently on the EF lenses and only disconnect the adapater from the body. Ideally you don't want to disconnect anything more than necessary; besides you will miss opportunities.
Yes, TC here is a teleconverter. So if I want to remove it, I have to separate the TC from the lens, then the TC from the adapater, leaving the adapter on the camera, and then connecting the camera adapter to the lens natively. Having a TC and a TC in line also adds to total length.
robstein wrote:
I've mostly converted to RF now but still use some EF's; I really like the drop in filter version as it adds a lot of flexibility if you use filters. Otherwise, just grab the basic one - I do have one with a custom dial but it's not as useful as I would have expected.
I understand the one converter for each lens concept but I don't find it that hard to just release the lens end and keep the camera end connected all the time you adjust to the new button location.
You don't find it a bit challenging with large lenses? I feel like you need 3 arms if not on a tripod or setting something down somewhere.
For the time being I'm going to stick with the EF lenses so I'll just keep the converter on the camera but what I'm wondering is that the converter also accept EFS lenses and those cost next to nothing now So has anybody had any experience using the converter with those lenses as far as the quality of the photographs assuming proper exposure?
John Power wrote:
For the time being I'm going to stick with the EF lenses so I'll just keep the converter on the camera but what I'm wondering is that the converter also accept EFS lenses and those cost next to nothing now So has anybody had any experience using the converter with those lenses as far as the quality of the photographs assuming proper exposure?
Yes it will accept EF-S lenses. The camera will automatically apply a crop so you get less megapixels but it fills the frame.
EB-1 wrote:
IQ is mainly a propblem with the higher resolution cameras not looking good per pixel.
But if you are using EFs or RFs you are not trying for high IQ.
EBH
It is certainly possible to get good sharpness from an R7, and there are quality RF-S prime lenses available from Sigma and Yongnuo.The new Sigma 17-40mm f/1.8 Art seems very good and even EF-S 17-55 is still quite good when stopped down. And then there are good choices from the EF-S era, like the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 and the EF-S 35mm and 60mm macro lenses.
I agree that those seeking ultimate IQ might want full frame (or even a larger format), but high-quality work is not beyond APS-C.
May 15, 2026 at 02:45 PM
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garyvot wrote:
It is certainly possible to get good sharpness from an R7, and there are quality RF-S prime lenses available from Sigma and Yongnuo.The new Sigma 17-40mm f/1.8 Art seems very good and even EF-S 17-55 is still quite good when stopped down. And then there are good choices from the EF-S era, like the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 and the EF-S 35mm and 60mm macro lenses.
I agree that those seeking ultimate IQ might want full frame (or even a larger format), but high-quality work is not beyond APS-C.
Having an R7 let me add that two lenses that I like for it are the EF-s 15-85 f/3.5-5.6 and the RF 24 f/1.8 STM IS Macro. The zoom is a nice range and stopped down just a half stop has really nice performance and the prime is a great alternative for that camera.
EB-1 wrote:
You don't find it a bit challenging with large lenses? I feel like you need 3 arms if not on a tripod or setting something down somewhere.
EBH
The release switch on the adapter rather than the body? - Goes and grabs an EF 70-200 because my hands remember but not my brain (it's too busy breathing)
I don't because I grab the camera on the back/left side in left hand with thumb webbing around the viewfinder (basically thumb almost on the flash). Then with my 2nd left finger (longest one wrapped around the left side of camera), I pull against the body or reach out a cm or so and pull against adapter in the same direction. The switch's line up so it's just a bit more of a stretch (ape like hands help in this case). Now you do have to remember which lens class it is
Granted, I don't own the big white EF's but don't see how it would matter much as long as I could hold the lens in the right hand and twist it on and off. I find the 40mm pancake harder than the 70-200 or 135 etc.
