p.1 #1 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
I am primarily a still photographer that shoots large animals (grizzly, polar, muskox, wolves [and landscape but that's not relevant in this post.])
Sometimes cubs will do cute things that require motion/video to capture. Sometimes stills are limited by branches that would be less important in video.
I would like to dabble in video but the thing that always stops me is that I would then miss opportunities for high quality stills that could be printed large. Switching from video to stills misses losing video. Switching from stills to video misses stills.
Stills generally require faster shutter speed and better focus. Whereas video is more forgiving and generally benefits from blur from motion (180rule) eg 1/120s for 60fps to not seem jittery.
I have read that I could shoot my r5ii in video 60fps 1/2000ss 8k raw auto iso and then:
1) Pick frames out of video for about 35mpx raw stills. They would be 12 bit Raw but still pretty good. With lots of culling.
2) Use topaz video, to convert the video to remove the jitter that arises at 1/2000 ss. To make it into a very good 24fps video.
Using 1/2000 would remove blur caused by 1/120 ss, which is generally needed to freeze still frames, that would be selected.
Using topaz video would put the blur back in, so that it looks like it is shot at 1/120s
Then I would not miss stills when shooting video, and I would be more inclined to shoot video.
[I guess I could go the other way an shoot in preburst at 30fps or 20fps with craw and then create a ~5 s video by merging them into a video.At 20fps, craw, I should get enough frames for 25s converted to 24fps cinema look. Only 3.5 seconds at 30fps. This is very easy to do, put them in a folder, import them into QuickTime and ask it to make a video, I think.]
It might even be pretty good as compared to pre-burst. With way more culling and extracting.
I would have to buy topaz at $300 but if it works that's okay.
p.1 #3 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
Your plan is sound. Before buying Topaz, check if your NLE doesn't already support a frame-blurring / interpolation feature that will make your fast shutter speeds more filmic or at least acceptable.
p.1 #4 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
Scott Stoness wrote:
[I guess I could go the other way an shoot in preburst at 30fps or 20fps with craw and then create a ~5 s video by merging them into a video.At 20fps, craw, I should get enough frames for 25s converted to 24fps cinema look. Only 3.5 seconds at 30fps. This is very easy to do, put them in a folder, import them into QuickTime and ask it to make a video, I think.]
p.1 #5 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
Keep in mind that raw (especially compressed raw) is nothing like photo raw. About the only thing that a raw video frame has over Log h265 video frame is some flexibility in white balance, and a smidge more DR.
About Topaz, I will suggest that you test a trial version before buying it. It is good for certain things but not for every situation especially when working with high res video it will be very slow. So do verify that before spending money.
Your idea of creating video from still frames is the most practical, especially if you don't need audio or have an external audio recorder. 15fps (or even 10fps) will be quite enough for your movie but will also allow you to shoot longer (or shoot multiple bursts next to each other) by not filling your buffer too early.
p.1 #7 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
snapsy wrote:
Your plan is sound. Before buying Topaz, check if your NLE doesn't already support a frame-blurring / interpolation feature that will make your fast shutter speeds more filmic or at least acceptable.
My NLE (non linear editor) is QuickTime, apple movie or Devinci. Quicktime and apple movie do not have frame blurring / interpolation. Devinci does support frame blurring but I find it to have a very high complexity. I understand that Topaz video is much easier to use (more intuitive)?
Thus my flow would look like:
1) Take a long burst - at 20fps I could burst about 600 craws at iso 3600. 600/20 is 30seconds max (no slow mo) or 90s (24fps slow mo). At fast shutter/ auto iso.
2) Process the files in a batch Light Room - auto light, denoise, .. [or dxo pure raw]
3) Export them to a folder - eg 'video tiff's'
4) Import them into quick time as 4k. Add some music.
5) bring them into Topaz AI and force them to either 30sec 24fps (no slow motion) or 15s 24ps (slow mo).
I would then have a pretty high quality cinematic 15-30s (24fps) wildlife video (in normal or slow motion). Wth a non complex process.
p.1 #8 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
Imagemaster wrote:
No idea if this would work for you:
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Thank you - but I am not sure whether this would create missing frames and blur/interpolate from 1/2000 shutter speed to 1/120 shutter speed. And QuickTime does it easier?
p.1 #9 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
indusphoto wrote:
Keep in mind that raw (especially compressed raw) is nothing like photo raw. About the only thing that a raw video frame has over Log h265 video frame is some flexibility in white balance, and a smidge more DR.
About Topaz, I will suggest that you test a trial version before buying it. It is good for certain things but not for every situation especially when working with high res video it will be very slow. So do verify that before spending money.
Your idea of creating video from still frames is the most practical, especially if you don't need audio or have an external audio recorder. 15fps (or even 10fps) will be quite enough for your movie but will also allow you to shoot longer (or shoot multiple bursts next to each other) by not filling your buffer too early. ...Show more →
I presume you mean 8k craw. I will read about 8k craw vs what I understand about still craw.
Good idea to try before buying re Topaz and interpolation. I will trial it.
I am starting to think that craw still burst with interpolation is the right answer. The downsides are i) no audio (usually not close enough because of danger and not pushing the subject) and ii) will have to remember to take a 3 or 6 second burst, and iii) if I go to long I will have to wait for the buffer to clear (won't be a big issue at craw 20fps), iv) craw as opposed to raw will have slightly less dynamic range (very little at high iso), v) limit to 30s of video (enough for me).
That is much easier than switching back and forth between video and stills. Also much easier than extracting frames - I would always be in still mode in the field.
p.1 #10 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
craw still vs extract 8kcraw video
1) 14bit vs 12 bit - likely not that significant at high iso's. 2 less stops dynamic range in good light.
2) 45mpx vs 34mpx - much less for cropping stills after the fact and will require less magnification less resolution to fill the frame at 16:9. Effectively less room for cropping.
3) 8k craw video - Much less risk of missing a moment because you have captures all moments rather than choosing in real time
4) 8k craw video - Much more data storage 30fps for 30 s equivalent of 900 frames vs 600 frames and its better to just let it roll vs preburst which would really take space. eg 512gb card is 25 minutes in 8k craw. About the same in craw still but I would not take as much equivalent video because I am taking up to 30s bursts with pre capture.
So if prioritizing still quality, shooting in craw at high fps will deliver high quality stills and very good video up to 30s. Simpler than switching still to video.
p.1 #11 · Minimizing Video Shooting Still Regret --- R5II
Scott Stoness wrote:
My NLE (non linear editor) is QuickTime, apple movie or Devinci. Quicktime and apple movie do not have frame blurring / interpolation. Devinci does support frame blurring but I find it to have a very high complexity. I understand that Topaz video is much easier to use (more intuitive)?
Thus my flow would look like:
1) Take a long burst - at 20fps I could burst about 600 craws at iso 3600. 600/20 is 30seconds max (no slow mo) or 90s (24fps slow mo). At fast shutter/ auto iso.
2) Process the files in a batch Light Room - auto light, denoise, .. [or dxo pure raw]
3) Export them to a folder - eg 'video tiff's'
4) Import them into quick time as 4k. Add some music.
5) bring them into Topaz AI and force them to either 30sec 24fps (slow motion) or 60s 30fps (no slow mo) and insert frames to get it up to 30fps.
I would then have a pretty high quality cinematic 30-90s (24fps) wildlife video (in normal or slow motion). Wth a non complex process....Show more →
I might also just go to slow motion 24fps automatically (12sec for 600 stills) and see how it looks without blurring /interpolation (accept staccato) before going the long route. Eg just stay in QuickTime app for simple high quality 4k video.
