p.1 #1 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
I'm looking into buying a couple of spare batteries for my R6II and my R7, but i've come across some confusing/contradictory info.
The batteries that came with each of my cameras was the Canon LP-E6NH. That battery has been disconnected. The new "replacement " battery is the Canon LP-E6P, however, this new battery is for the Canon R5II. According to several Google sources, this new LP-E6O requires an update on my R6II in order for it to be fully compatible.
Let's add another battery to the mix; the "older" Canon LP-E6N. I still have a couple of those older LP-E6N batteries that I use on my older 7dmk2. In fact, I have a brand new, still-in-its-original-packaging, never-used (because I forgot I had it), Canon LP-E6N.
The main reason I purchased a Canon R7 was for it to be a backup to my R6II because they shared the same exact battery. Now I'm running into this issue of the LP-E6NH being discontinued and the newer LP-E6P requiring a camera firmware update in order for it to be fully compatible with my cameras.
So,
1. Should I buy the non-Canon versions of the LP-E6NH in order for my R6II and R7 to continue to operate without the need for any firmare updates?
2. Should I unpack my "new, unused" LP-E6N and use it as a spare?
3. Should I buy the new LP-E6P and cross my fingers that it will work as well as the LP-E6NH without the need for any firmwarw update?
Note: Why do I not want to perform a firmwarw update on my R6II and R7? Right now I can't take the risk of having something go wrong. I'm heading out on a trip very soon, and I can't afford to make some mistake during the firmware install forcing me to have to send them to Canon for repair in case I mess up. I need a quick, easy, non-risky solution.
p.s. The current firmware on both my R6II and R7 are 1.5.0.
I would buy 1-2 E6P's and bring the E6N out of storage. I used one with my R6 for a few years and it worked fine, but seemed to deliver about 80% of the battery life of the E6NH. Batteries don't like to sit idle forever so hopefully it still works.
p.1 #3 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
My R6II is fw version 1.4.0. I have a "P" battery for the R5II and just put it in the R6II and it turned on without any kind of incompatibility warning at start up. The camera also didn't explode or melt down.
In addition to a number of Canon "NH" batteries, I have a bunch of NH clones from Neewer and they have held up well for almost 3 years. They get about 80-85% of the usable duration of the original Canon batteries. Also, if you work in mechanical or EFCS and have the camera in continuous advance, the Neewer will maintain peak fps rate only until about 75% state of charge, whereas the original Canon batteries can drop to about 40% SOC before the frame rate decreases.
In the short term, in your position, I'd just get the Neewer version of the NH battery. You can get two and a USB charger for less than half the price of one Canon battery. Note that these batteries will not work in the R5II and probably also not in future LPE6 compatible cameras. The R5II appears to recognize that the Neewer batteries are knockoffs, whereas my R6 and R6II do not.
p.1 #5 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
Alternatively, if you're just worried about running out of battery while on a trip, etc., you can buy a compact 45W (or higher) PD capable USB power brick and run the camera from it. You can also use it to charge the camera battery when the camera is off. The benefit of a couple of these over more LPE6 batteries, other than just being a lot less expensive, is that you can obviously use these to charge your phone, laptop, tablet, etc. Of course for powering the camera, it means having a cable connected to the camera's USB port, which might be inconvenient. And the camera still has to have a functional battery installed. It can be low SOC but it can't be entirely flat.
For example I've been using a couple of these to power the R5II during long events so I don't have to bother with switching out batteries at inopportune times:
p.1 #6 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
rscheffler wrote:
Alternatively, if you're just worried about running out of battery while on a trip, etc., you can buy a compact 45W (or higher) PD capable USB power brick and run the camera from it. You can also use it to charge the camera battery when the camera is off. The benefit of a couple of these over more LPE6 batteries, other than just being a lot less expensive, is that you can obviously use these to charge your phone, laptop, tablet, etc. Of course for powering the camera, it means having a cable connected to the camera's USB port, which might be inconvenient. And the camera still has to have a functional battery installed. It can be low SOC but it can't be entirely flat.
For example I've been using a couple of these to power the R5II during long events so I don't have to bother with switching out batteries at inopportune times:
I seem to get about 2-3 batteries worth of runtime out of one of these power banks....Show more →
Thanks! I added to my wishlist! I will be traveling with three portable "power bricks", but they are much larger and heavier than that small one you mentioned. I use them to power up a wifi hotspot and my cell phone during day-long trips. I'll probably get that tiny one you mentioned to use as a back up for the cameras.
I would buy 1-2 E6P's and bring the E6N out of storage. I used one with my R6 for a few years and it worked fine, but seemed to deliver about 80% of the battery life of the E6NH. Batteries don't like to sit idle forever so hopefully it still works.
Thanks! I hope that my LP-E6N hasn't gone bad. It's been sitting in storage (temperature controlled) for at least 7 years (purchased it in August of 2018). I completely forgot I had it!
p.1 #8 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
rscheffler wrote:
My R6II is fw version 1.4.0. I have a "P" battery for the R5II and just put it in the R6II and it turned on without any kind of incompatibility warning at start up. The camera also didn't explode or melt down.
In addition to a number of Canon "NH" batteries, I have a bunch of NH clones from Neewer and they have held up well for almost 3 years. They get about 80-85% of the usable duration of the original Canon batteries. Also, if you work in mechanical or EFCS and have the camera in continuous advance, the Neewer will maintain peak fps rate only until about 75% state of charge, whereas the original Canon batteries can drop to about 40% SOC before the frame rate decreases.
In the short term, in your position, I'd just get the Neewer version of the NH battery. You can get two and a USB charger for less than half the price of one Canon battery. Note that these batteries will not work in the R5II and probably also not in future LPE6 compatible cameras. The R5II appears to recognize that the Neewer batteries are knockoffs, whereas my R6 and R6II do not....Show more →
Thanks! I'll probably order a Neewer after I return from my trip. I had a Watson brand battery for my old Canon 7dmk2, but it went bad after a year.
p.1 #10 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
snegron7 wrote:
Thanks! I added to my wishlist! I will be traveling with three portable "power bricks", but they are much larger and heavier than that small one you mentioned. I use them to power up a wifi hotspot and my cell phone during day-long trips. I'll probably get that tiny one you mentioned to use as a back up for the cameras.
It keeps some pressure off the camera's USB port because it'll disconnect before enough force can be applied to damage the port. Not that it can't happen, but these should mitigate it sufficiently.
It keeps some pressure off the camera's USB port because it'll disconnect before enough force can be applied to damage the port. Not that it can't happen, but these should mitigate it sufficiently.
Very interesting design! Looks like it will save cables from bending/breaking as well!
p.1 #12 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
snegron7 wrote:
Very interesting design! Looks like it will save cables from bending/breaking as well!
I agree. Just to make sure I'm understanding. You plug the small fixed piece into the UCB-C port on the camera, and plug the cable into 180 degree swivel piece? What is the removal tool that is listed under "You will get" (it's a bit disconcerting that a removal tool is necessary)?
p.1 #13 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
I have a similar one that kinda sucked for powering a laptop as it would disconnect too easily. Some people use them for cellphones, tablets, etc.
The tool is used if the small male part (purple in the linked image) is difficult to remove from the USB C port, for example if the port is recessed. Otherwise you might need a needlenose pliers.
p.1 #14 · 3 Questions About Batteries For R6II & R7
This one seems to have decent magnetic strength. I'd put it in the same category as Apple's MagSafe connectors, though not quite as strong because it's smaller.
It has been good enough to use while on the go at events and along sports sidelines. Yes, it disconnects fairly regularly, like when changing positions along the sideline, but it only takes a moment to reconnect. The camera's battery still has to be installed and operational, so it will seamlessly take over whenever the cable is disconnected. The camera does not shut down. At the end of an event, the camera's batteries will probably be down one bar from the times the cable disconnected while I was too busy to reconnect it. But IMO at least, that's still better than having pay attention to and swap out the batteries a few times.
vbnut wrote:
Just to make sure I'm understanding. You plug the small fixed piece into the UCB-C port on the camera, and plug the cable into 180 degree swivel piece?
Yes
What is the removal tool that is listed under "You will get" (it's a bit disconcerting that a removal tool is necessary)?
At least when used with a camera, you don't need a removal tool. Just pull the small male piece straight out from the camera's USB port with your fingernails.
So far the only in the field annoyance I've had with these magnetic connectors is that when the cable disconnects and if it contacts the ground (for example, if I'm kneeling along the sidelines of a game), it will occasionally pick up small magnetic bits of 'sand' that will prevent the connection from seating properly to transfer power. It can be a bit of a pain to clear out that 'sand' because it sticks strongly to the magnet. I also haven't used these in wet/rain conditions, and may opt to just use the camera's batteries.
