johnvanr
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 p.1 #11 · AF/MF lenses with DoF scales | |
jjcha wrote:
Yes, but sadly, Hasselblad thought it appropriate to use the same distance scales based on the ~0.06mm circle of confusion they used for the classic 500cm lenses (for 60mm x 60mm film format) for a much smaller 44mm x 33mm sensor. What this means is that the DoF zone shown on the XCD V lenses is way too generous.
E.g., the XCD 55mm F2.5 V lens, stopped down at F11 and focused at 4 meters away, the barrel markings will show a zone of ~2.2 meters to 24 meters (basically infinity) in focus. This would be correct were it a 55mm lens on a classic 500CM camera, which is a nice wide angle lens (basically a 28mm equivalent).
But the reality is that on the smaller 44mm x 33mm sensor of the X2D system with its ~0.8x crop factor and the standard normal angle of the XCD 55mm F2.5 (a ~42mm equivalent lens), your DoF, by classic 1/1500 the sensor diagonal standards (which is what the old ~0.06mm circle of confusion is based upon), should be ~2.6 meters to 8.7 meters, or far smaller.
Bottom line? Relying on the barrel markings will result in photos that are in less in-focus than you would expect from the indicators.
I have no idea why Hasselblad decided to use such an inappropriate CoC assumption on its lens markings. I was really surprised when I noticed this -- I guess it's just trying to harken back to the 500CM tradition? But it makes it useless for a street shooter like me.
But back to the OP -- all Fujifilm lenses will allow for zone focusing in manual mode with the LCD distance scale, even if there isn't a manual clutch. I actually prefer this over Fujifilm's manual clutch lenses when I do shoot Fujifilm, despite being a die-hard M-mount, muscle memory zone focusing rangefinder shooter 90% of the time.
And that's because it allows you to be in manual focus and zone focus for the majority of the time, but then also have a back button center point autofocus "override." This means you can use autofocus in a similar way to aligning the rangefinder on a m-mount camera, but by just hitting the back AF button and without having to manually engage a clutch or move the focus to an "auto" position, like on the Leica Q, which often forces you to lose and recompose your shot.
This back button center point autofocus override lets me switch from my general zone focusing to focus on a specific subject, and focuses far faster than I could ever align a manual rangefinder and works well on, for example, the X100 series + the 28mm wide conversion lenses.
The Ricoh GRIII will also allow for a manual zone focus with an autofocus override (by tapping on the touch screen to activate a focus point then half pressing the shutter button in manual focus mode).
Also, OP, don't forget on your Pen F and your mFT 12mm lens, you can just be at F4.0 and your DoF will be basically the same (actually even wider) than your M11 and 28mm lens at F8. For your APS-C, your Voigtlander 18mm at F5.6 is fine for basically your 28mm at F8.0 full frame equivalency on your M11....Show more →
Thanks.
I'll check the Fuji setup.
I'm aware of the increased DoF on the Pen f (and Fuji compared to FF). I would use that in general, but in this case, I wanted to see how f/8 compared between these different formats. Fuji and MFT have an advantage here for this type of shooting.
The reasoning behind my question is that I think hip shooting has a role to play, but a sole focus on it does two things (for me):
- it kind of limits the places where you find the most opportunities to locations that are neither too crowded (no leeway to shoot) or too empty (nothing to shoot); you kind of need the right crowds;
- it made me focus too much on just shooting from the hip to the point where I felt I wasn't seeing other opportunities.
I'm still trying to figure out what kind of street shooting I prefer (having moved from NYC to Europe) and other than hip shooting, I'm also interested in street portraiture, hence my interest in being able to quickly switch between manual focus with a narrow aperture to AF with a wide aperture (and preferably eye AF). As always, this latter point makes me wonder about using the Leica M11, otherwise considered a great street camera.
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