Abbott Schindl Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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billsamuels wrote:
What would I test it on indoors? If I used a chart, are there any really good charts to test for sharpness?
I don't know of any charts. What I've been doing with my UWAs is setup indoors in a well-lit room, on a tripod with a wireless remote release. That stabilizes the camera and eliminates all possibility my releasing the shutter introducing any vibration, so only the camera's native shutter movement's involved.
I happen to have a section of wall (~15' x 7' tall) covered with books. The camera gets setup close enough that the books fill the width of the frame at whatever FL I'm interested in. For UWA zooms, I try both ends of the range as well as wide-open, fully closed, and midpoint apertures. Unfortunately the books don't get lit uniformly, but everything's illuminated so the titles are readable.
Yes, it's a rough test, but it gives me an indication of lens sharpness. I've tested the RF 10-20 f/4L, RF 14-35 f/4L, EF 15-35 f/4L, EF 11-24 f/4L, and EF 14 f/2.8L this way. I've done this with my R5's (RF and EF lenses) and 5D Mark IV (EF lenses only).
Pretty consistently, the edges come out a little soft and vignetted to some extent, while the centers are usually quite sharp. I'll then go into Capture One, apply a circular gradient, and then see if I can sharpen and brighten the edges to my satisfaction. After all, I think it's not just about what the bare lens can do, but also (since presumably we're using software) my pp skills. So far I've been able to correct both sharpness and vignetting with my approach. What I can't correct so easily is distortion, but I'm OK with working that on .in situ images.
So while not particularly scientific, my simple test has worked fine for me. I also have FoCal, but that's just an AF aid that I haven't found as useful for ML as DSLR cameras.
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