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Changing film without completing all exposures

  
 
Fred Miranda
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p.1 #1 · Changing film without completing all exposures


I wasn't aware this was doable. As per the Leica M2 manual, it's possible to switch the film midway without completing all the shots. For example, you can switch from an ISO 400 film to ISO 800, or transition from color to black and white.

Has anyone experimented with this? The instructions recommend covering the lens, noting the exposure number, changing the film, and later reloading the film and advancing it to the previous count.







Jan 01, 2024 at 09:31 PM
OffTrail
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p.1 #2 · Changing film without completing all exposures


All the time! Even if you have a camera that rewinds all the way automatically, a leader puller (or another wet leader) is all you need. Just note how far you were, and go a few frames past that in the next camera to give you some buffer. As noted, do it with the lens cap on.

The only caveat I've found is with cameras that completely wind the film when you load, and then rewind with each shot.



Jan 01, 2024 at 09:48 PM
hkrazerx
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p.1 #3 · Changing film without completing all exposures


I didn’t know about this M2 innovation. Is it possible for Leica or independent repairman to retrofit this feature to an earlier model?


Jan 01, 2024 at 09:54 PM
Desmolicious
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p.1 #4 · Changing film without completing all exposures


I’ve done this a lot, but not so I can load a different film but because I realized I wished I was using a different camera!


Jan 02, 2024 at 02:09 AM
jcolwell
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p.1 #5 · Changing film without completing all exposures


I've done this with Pentax and Contax film cameras. Should work with anything that you can initiate a mid-roll rewind. Biggest challenge for me, is to remember which frame was up, when the rewind was started. I usually skip this frame when putting it back in a camera.


Jan 02, 2024 at 07:26 AM
hkrazerx
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p.1 #6 · Changing film without completing all exposures


I stopped doing mid roll changes when a few times accidentally used a partially exposed roll as fresh film. I also stopped leaving leaders out after finishing a roll. Also carrying two cameras helps a lot! When I had .58x and .85x bodies I can carry two bodies and load them with 100 and 400iso film.


Jan 02, 2024 at 11:25 AM
RustyRus
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p.1 #7 · Changing film without completing all exposures


Good thoughts on the topic here @fredmiranda

https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1837475



Jan 02, 2024 at 12:06 PM
 


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panos.v
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p.1 #8 · Changing film without completing all exposures


If you really want to go nuts, you can unload the film and then load it in a different camera!!!!!!

In fact...I should probably try that...shoot 5 frames on a Leica, 5 on the Canon, 5 back on the M and so on....if I use a 50 on both will I even notice the difference? Who knows! Or maybe Huss can try a frame each on a different camera (surely you have at least 36?) and see if anyone can tell what's what



Jan 02, 2024 at 12:15 PM
coralnut
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p.1 #9 · Changing film without completing all exposures


Best solution? Hasselblad with changeable backs.


Jan 02, 2024 at 12:41 PM
hkrazerx
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p.1 #10 · Changing film without completing all exposures



panos.v wrote:
If you really want to go nuts, you can unload the film and then load it in a different camera!!!!!!

In fact...I should probably try that...shoot 5 frames on a Leica, 5 on the Canon, 5 back on the M and so on....if I use a 50 on both will I even notice the difference? Who knows! Or maybe Huss can try a frame each on a different camera (surely you have at least 36?) and see if anyone can tell what's what


No need to guess which frames were shot with Huss’ M6. Just look for scratches



Jan 02, 2024 at 03:30 PM
andrewd01
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p.1 #11 · Changing film without completing all exposures


Any film camera can do this. It is more inconvenient on cameras with power rewind if they rewind the leader but you can still the fish the leader out if needed. Unless you only have one film body It is not worth the faff in my opinion.


Jan 02, 2024 at 04:29 PM
Desmolicious
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p.1 #12 · Changing film without completing all exposures


panos.v wrote:
If you really want to go nuts, you can unload the film and then load it in a different camera!!!!!!

In fact...I should probably try that...shoot 5 frames on a Leica, 5 on the Canon, 5 back on the M and so on....if I use a 50 on both will I even notice the difference? Who knows! Or maybe Huss can try a frame each on a different camera (surely you have at least 36?) and see if anyone can tell what's what


I already did that! Ok, not with 36 but the one roll in three different cameras to compare different 50mm lenses.

But normally when I remove film and load it into another camera, it's because I realized I did not want to use the first camera but was doing so because it was neglected. Then I realize why!

last time was maybe a month ago when I loaded film into a Nikon FG, shot a couple of frames then realized I wish I was using my F3P instead. So took it out of the FG, loaded it into the F3P and lived happily ever after.
The End.



Jan 03, 2024 at 01:59 AM
Desmolicious
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p.1 #13 · Changing film without completing all exposures


hkrazerx wrote:
No need to guess which frames were shot with Huss’ M6. Just look for scratches


Why I oughta... to the moon!



Jan 03, 2024 at 02:01 AM
AmbientMike
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p.1 #14 · Changing film without completing all exposures


Fred Miranda wrote:
I wasn't aware this was doable. As per the Leica M2 manual, it's possible to switch the film midway without completing all the shots. For example, you can switch from an ISO 400 film to ISO 800, or transition from color to black and white.

Has anyone experimented with this? The instructions recommend covering the lens, noting the exposure number, changing the film, and later reloading the film and advancing it to the previous count.


When you feel the roll being pulled off the spool you attach it to when loading, maybe even hear it coming off, stop, and pull it out of the camera. Not that hard on manual rewind film cameras, really. Can try it in a dark room like a bathroom, having no light, to be on the safe side, and feel if the film is rewound, rewinding if necessary (probably won't be.)

then mark the number of exposures on the roll. I've probably even scrawled it on there using a cable relesse, the part that you put in the shutter release often kinda sharp. A pocket knife could be good, or if you're more organized than I am, a sharpie in your camera bag

Obviously you need to put the lens cap on or something to keep light from entering the lens (M, highest ss good idea f/22 etc or dark bathroom or something) when you reload and advance the film past the exposed part, to avoid double exposures. I usually do 2-3 extra, to avoid double exposure. I've probably done it on Nikon, Pentax, Olympus film SLR'S etc



Jan 03, 2024 at 12:26 PM







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