geekcop wrote:
I have really enjoyed mine. I have the same issue where when it is attached to the hotshot it makes the Texas Leica even bigger and a little too tall for my messenger bag. Plus I am constantly worried it will snap off in the hotshot. I have a bunch of neck lanyards so I am going to try neck carrying as suggested above.
BPsmith511 wrote:
I have this pre-ordered since day 1 in black paint/brass, I'll let everyone know when it comes in!
I'll be curious to see if it's readable in bright daylight. I really don't like these meters with OLED displays on the top; I have the Hedeco and it is really impossible to read once it gets bright out; even when shading it with my hand it's hard to read.
bjhurley wrote:
I'll be curious to see if it's readable in bright daylight. I really don't like these meters with OLED displays on the top; I have the Hedeco and it is really impossible to read once it gets bright out; even when shading it with my hand it's hard to read.
An OLED paired with an M2/M3 is an unusual combination. It is not bad, just unexpected.
Fred Miranda wrote:
I'm currently exploring several light meters, and the Reveni light meter stands out due to its compact design and precise readings. However, I've noticed that some users have concerns about its build quality and find its buttons a bit challenging to use compared to other brands: https://www.reveni-labs.com/shop/p/lightmeter.
brick33308 wrote:
wouldn't it be easier to get a M6 classic or MP
Internal metering is useful, but for many, the M6 and MP are simply too expensive for a film camera. The M3, on the other hand, is often considered the best film M ever made, especially if you prefer shooting with 50mm and 90mm lenses, though it lacks an internal meter. I usually shoot my MP without the battery, making it essentially like using an M3 or M-A... When the lighting is tricky, there are plenty of apps available. My favorite is myLightMeterPro. It is just as reliable as my M with internal metering and more accurate than many external meters.
p.4 #10 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
Fred Miranda wrote:
When the lighting is tricky, there are plenty of apps available. My favorite is myLightMeterPro. It is just as reliable as my M with internal metering and more accurate than many external meters.
+1 to this; I really like that app. And some years back I bought a clip-on lumisphere for my phone to use with a different light metering app, now discontinued. With the lumisphere installed, I can switch myLightMeterPro to incident mode and its readings match those of my Sekonic. Its reflective readings also match the Sekonic, plus you can tap any part of the image to get a spot reading.
I have too many meters now, as none of them totally satisfy me so I keep trying others to see if I can find one that I can stick with. The phone meter comes close, especially for travel as I'll have my phone with me anyway, but it's a little more awkward to use (pull phone out of pocket, unlock it, find the meter app, open it, take a reading) than either a camera-mounted meter or a meter hanging around my neck. But one advantage to a phone meter is that it's totally waterproof; most of my other meters can be damaged by exposure to rain. I keep the meter app prominently positioned on the home screen of my phone so I don't have to hunt for it, but it still feels slower to use than a dedicated meter.
Possibly my next favorite is the Sekonic L-208, which is cheap, small, light, analog, and runs for years on a battery. What I like about it is that you can see all the possible exposure combinations (f-stop and shutter speed) on the dial, and you can see whether your chosen combination will result in a slight over- or underexposure or whether it's spot on. The numbers are small though, so it's getting hard for me to see them without reading glasses. It also can do incident metering. It can be mounted on a camera's cold shoe but it would look silly as it's quite large so I just hang it around my neck or keep it in my pocket.
p.4 #11 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
Fred Miranda wrote:
Internal metering is useful, but for many, the M6 and MP are simply too expensive for a film camera. The M3, on the other hand, is often considered the best film M ever made, especially if you prefer shooting with 50mm and 90mm lenses, though it lacks an internal meter. I usually shoot my MP without the battery, making it essentially like using an M3 or M-A... When the lighting is tricky, there are plenty of apps available. My favorite is myLightMeterPro. It is just as reliable as my M with internal metering and more accurate than many external meters....Show more →
I was being tongue in cheek, but your reply about taking the battery out of the MP is intriguing. Is the MP meter as accurate as LightMeterPro, and if so, is the reason for not using the MP meter simply to develop your chops with the sunny 16 rule and also enjoy the vintage film experience (which I think is also why you enjoy your D cams)?
p.4 #12 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
brick33308 wrote:
I was being tongue in cheek, but your reply about taking the battery out of the MP is intriguing. Is the MP meter as accurate as LightMeterPro, and if so, is the reason for not using the MP meter simply to develop your chops with the sunny 16 rule and also enjoy the vintage film experience (which I think is also why you enjoy your D cams)?
I do not have a lot of experience, but the Sunny 16 rule works quite well most of the time. Film is forgiving with highlights, which helps, and for this reason, I prefer to err on the side of overexposure rather than underexposure. I usually treat Sunny 16 as Sunny 11 and get accurate results.
As for the battery, I just need to buy new ones, but when they died, I kept shooting without them and actually liked it. The red flashing light in the viewfinder can be a bit distracting, which is another reason I enjoy using the M3 with its clean viewfinder and framelines.
I also think exposure apps do a great job. You can try it yourself by bringing your MP or a digital M, setting the exposure, and comparing it to the app. In my experience, they usually match closely.
p.4 #16 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
madNbad wrote:
If you're interested, I've been using the new Reveni Lumo hand held meter for almost a month.
Mine arrives today along with the spot meter. Matt provides amazingly fast customer service. He is trying to get everyone their meters prior to the tariff situation hitting on August 29th.
I’d be interested in your experience and any tips that you might provide regarding the use of the Lumo.
p.4 #17 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
I purchased the MKII Spot meter and the MKII meter. They’re both incredibly useful and so much easier than using my Pentax meter. The tiny MKII meter sits right in the cold shoe of my Leica M2 and Rolleiflex SL66, but order the riser for cold shoes for older, non metered cameras as it holds it in place nicely. The Spot meter MKII lets you set any zone you want without having to look down and calculate settings. These work great and are quite innovative!
p.4 #18 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
When you want to take a reading, just tap the top button. If you hold it down, it takes the meter into menu mode. To access advanced settings, enter menu mode and press and hold the right and left buttons. When cycling through the menu to change settings like metering mode, ISO or EV, the top button will cycle through the selections which will be highlighted in gray and can be difficult to see in bright light. Also, if you miss you're choice, you have to cycle through the selections to get back to it.
The screen can be a bit difficult to see in bright sunlight but I just shade it with my hand. Battery life is very good. I topped off the charge when I received mine the second week of July and the indicator shows more than 80%.
I set my on time for ten seconds. It's log enough for a reading and saves battery life. I also spent time with both the Lumo and my Sekonic 308x to compare readings between the two. I added +2/3 EV to the Lumo and they match. It's easy enough to do if you have a favorite meter.
Mostly, I've used incident mode. I did put it in flash mode to get an idea of how much power to Holga Holgon flashes actually put out and I've used the reflective mode a few times. Overall, I like it enough that it's become the meter I take with me. There will be a Version 1.4 firmware update soon to address whatever blips the Kickstarter group has discovered.
Matt has developed a real winner with this product. I hope it works as well for you and if you have any further questions, I'll do my best to answer them.
p.4 #19 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
madNbad wrote:
I also spent time with both the Lumo and my Sekonic 308x to compare readings between the two. I added +2/3 EV to the Lumo and they match. It's easy enough to do if you have a favorite meter.
I was using the earlier incident/reflective meter (the one with a finger strap) and all my rolls were coming back underexposed (this was before I started developing my own film); the same films with my Hedeco Lime II meter were all perfectly exposed. I returned it; Matt checked it and said the readings were fine. I eventually got another one because it was such a useful meter, but it was still showing consistently different readings than my other meters; I think adding 2/3 EV or even 1 EV in my case would bring it into alignment.
The little cube meter has always provided me with reliable exposures, as long as I aim more toward the shadows.
p.4 #20 · Experiences with Reveni labs light meter
These are first impressions.
The Lumo is charged via a USB C cable. The Spot ii comes with two AAA batteries. Both have a neck strap with quick detach and soft felt like bags for storage.
The Lumo seems to be spot on when compared to my Seikonic L-608 and L-358 and way smaller. The most divergence I managed was in low light and it amounted to 1/3 stop and the Sekonics can differ from each other by this amount. Also, if you are not happy with the calibration, you can go into the calibration portion of the menu and recalibrate the meter. I think this is what is meant above regarding adding 2/3 EV. Having the color temperature available is certainly a plus. Not sure how I will use this information. In theory it might help with subjects in shadow when shooting E100, but I don’t own filters, other than color for B&W.
Regarding the version 2 spot meter. Like the Lumo, it is really small. You use it with both eyes open, but with the meter in front of your dominant eye..(I assume). For me, I’m right handed, so I held the meter in front of my right eye. I don’t have a dominant eye. You see the subject with one eye and the spot screen with the other. You can take single reading, two reading and have them automatically averaged, assign zones to an area and see what zones the other areas fall under and a strange one where you meter and assign the type of subject you are metering..evidently pretty useful, but for now I’ll use the average mode. Of course you can use aperture, or shutter priority. I compared the measurement of various areas and found the results matched my L-608 set to one degree.
