I honestly don't recall. It looked like mayhem. I would have to consult my video recordings, felt like more than 4 but even 4 is a lot when a cat is trying to get a dik dik snack in the bush.
stanj wrote:
I honestly don't recall. It looked like mayhem. I would have to consult my video recordings, felt like more than 4 but even 4 is a lot when a cat is trying to get a dik dik snack in the bush.
Ha, exactly! I do understand though that if there were a mixture of black leopard and standard vehicles at a sighting, then the black leopard vehicles should be getting "priority" i.e. front row, but this would be very very hard to manage with the frenzy that ensues with the drivers and spot lights.
Cduff406 wrote:
I don't have near the wealth of knowledge others do in this thread, but I'll add my experiences anyway. I made my first (and likely only) trip to Africa maybe two years ago now. IT was part family safari, part photo safari, so things were a little different. We split our time between Chyulu (with a day trip to Amboselli), then the Mara (Olare Motorogi Conservancy) and Lewa. Each was amazing in its own way. Amboselli was a highlight, but going from conservancies to the park was a change. We found three lions making a hunt on a wildebeest, but the 6 or 8 other vehicles at the scene weren't as, shall we say, ehtical as mine and they ruined it. Incredible, amazing birds there, and some great wildlife, Spent some time with Craig, but he was outside the park so exempt from the crowds.
Game in the Mara was on another level, in terms of variety and quality of viewing. There were a pair of cheetahs just behind our lodge, we drove out and watched them make an unsuccessful hunt on some impalas, but what a sight! I was the only vehicle with them, but we could see the park boundary and there were at least a dozen vehicles parked at the border waiting for the cheetahs to cross in so they could follow them. The only time we saw other vehicles in the OMC was at a leopard sighting, and the strictly limit it to 6 vehicles at a time. Hippos at camp were maybe our favorite part, plus all the lions!
Someone mentioned that Lewa felt too much like California to them, and when we got there I said it felt just like driving around back in Texas. Good animal sightings, but not Mara quality. It was great to see some new species, and the rhinos, but not my favorite part of the trip.
In the long run, you can't really go wrong with your plans! Just have a great time, it will be amazing. Don't overlook Nairobi Natl Park when you are there too. I was really surprised at the animals we saw there.
Enjoy your trip! I'm jealous, our trip is still a highlight for us. ...Show more →
Thank you for your insights! What time of year did you go?
Based on the feedback here, I’m definitely reconsidering Amboseli and seeing if I can fit it in the trip.
Tim D. wrote:
Thank you for your insights! What time of year did you go?
Based on the feedback here, I’m definitely reconsidering Amboseli and seeing if I can fit it in the trip.
One last thought as another option to really scramble your brain....IF you think you can only get over to Africa once and it' s likely you'll never return, then here it goes. Since you don't want to miss out on shooting Rhino (remember, IMO I think they are pretty boring to shoot), one of the coolest shots that can be had of a Rhino in Kenya can be captured at the Nairobi NP with the Nairobi cityscape high rises in the background. Plenty of Rhino there along with tons of other species to warm you up on your first day to acclimate. You can stay at Ololo inside the park and you can hopefully coordinate for your flight to arrive late at night and you go straight there from the airport, and then you get the next full day on safari there. This checks your Rhinos off your list. Next morning you have a short drive to Wilson airport with a short flight to Mara or Amboseli, and you can skip the leg up North and spend some quality time in the Mara and Amboseli (Tortilis). If I could only go there once, this is exactly what I would do if I had to pick 2 of the 3 regions you are considering. If you think you can go back some day, then keep the north leg and go to Amboseli next time. If considering Tortilis, you also might want to look into the new camp they are building nearby (I think it might have already opened) as another option to be in the conservancy. If you were to hit Ololo, 2 of the 3 Kicheche Maras, and Tortilis you are talking about an all-time 5 star trip of a lifetime. Good luck on your decision.
artsupreme wrote:
One last thought as another option to really scramble your brain....IF you think you can only get over to Africa once and it' s likely you'll never return, then here it goes. Since you don't want to miss out on shooting Rhino (remember, IMO I think they are pretty boring to shoot), one of the coolest shots that can be had of a Rhino in Kenya can be captured at the Nairobi NP with the Nairobi cityscape high rises in the background. Plenty of Rhino there along with tons of other species to warm you up on your first day to acclimate. You can stay at Ololo inside the park and you can hopefully coordinate for your flight to arrive late at night and you go straight there from the airport, and then you get the next full day on safari there. This checks your Rhinos off your list. Next morning you have a short drive to Wilson airport with a short flight to Mara or Amboseli, and you can skip the leg up North and spend some quality time in the Mara and Amboseli (Tortilis). If I could only go there once, this is exactly what I would do if I had to pick 2 of the 3 regions you are considering. If you think you can go back some day, then keep the north leg and go to Amboseli next time. If considering Tortilis, you also might want to look into the new camp they are building nearby (I think it might have already opened) as another option to be in the conservancy. If you were to hit Ololo, 2 of the 3 Kicheche Maras, and Tortilis you are talking about an all-time 5 star trip of a lifetime. Good luck on your decision. ...Show more →
Staying at Ololo is a really good recommendation. When I took my trip to Kenya (hope to go back), I actually spent three days at Ololo to recover from jet lag after traveling from the western US. It was a fantastic option and a great way to "warm up" on safari photography before heading out. The animal that I was absolutely thrilled to see and photograph in Nairobi National Park was a serval and her two kittens. I think that I saw rhinos every day while there, plus lions, monkeys, all kinds of birds, giraffe, and many other animals.
Thanks artsupreme for the suggestion on Nairobi NP (and Adele for confirming it was worthwhile). If I decide not to go up to Lewa, that would be a good choice. I’m now teetering between doing that with Amboseli and Mara, or blowing the budget and doing Amboseli, Lewa, and Mara.
It’s the private vehicle costs that are really adding up. Elewana is charging $540/day extra for that. So trying to decide if I should do that on all the days at Amboseli and Lewa, or just do it some of the days? I’m definitely going to do it on all the days in the Mara at the Kicheche camps.
Does anyone have experience in a shared vehicle at the Elewana camps? Am I going to just end up frustrated, or is that a place to save some money?
Tim D. wrote:
Thanks artsupreme for the suggestion on Nairobi NP (and Adele for confirming it was worthwhile). If I decide not to go up to Lewa, that would be a good choice. I’m now teetering between doing that with Amboseli and Mara, or blowing the budget and doing Amboseli, Lewa, and Mara.
It’s the private vehicle costs that are really adding up. Elewana is charging $540/day extra for that. So trying to decide if I should do that on all the days at Amboseli and Lewa, or just do it some of the days? I’m definitely going to do it on all the days in the Mara at the Kicheche camps.
Does anyone have experience in a shared vehicle at the Elewana camps? Am I going to just end up frustrated, or is that a place to save some money? ...Show more →
Tim,
If it's up to me I'm sharing the vehicle in Lewa and doing private at Elewana/Toritilis. Why? Because Lewa will be "slow" and I think you would benefit less with a shared vehicle there. The rhino are everywhere, same with grevys zebras, giraffes, elephants, etc, so in my experience there was less of a benefit to have a private vehicle up there, even though I did. So although you could be frustrated sharing at times in Lewa, I think you'll still get the shots you are looking for. And so I would spend whatever budget you have for a PV at Tortilis because you will want to be out on the lakebeds by yourself, doing whatever you want and going wherever you want. Keep in mind there are a lot of wealthy people who go there and shoot with their iPhones. So I would hate for you to get stuck with a group of casual iPhone shooters who won't leave camp before sunrise, won't come back late after sunset, won't stay out at lunch to track a kill, or really position your landcruiser where you'll want to be with your telephotos. iPhone users need to be close, and you'll want to be positioned farther back at a distance. I would rather have the iPhone group situation happen to you at Lewa than Elewana. You can get lucky and be grouped with a like minded photographers, but I wouldn't count on it. Things can get real tense in shared vehicles. Just my 2c.
If it's up to me I'm sharing the vehicle in Lewa and doing private at Elewana/Toritilis. Why? Because Lewa will be "slow" and I think you would benefit less with a shared vehicle there. The rhino are everywhere, same with grevys zebras, giraffes, elephants, etc, so in my experience there was less of a benefit to have a private vehicle up there, even though I did. So although you could be frustrated sharing at times in Lewa, I think you'll still get the shots you are looking for. And so I would spend whatever budget you have for a PV at Tortilis because you will want to be out on the lakebeds by yourself, doing whatever you want and going wherever you want. Keep in mind there are a lot of wealthy people who go there and shoot with their iPhones. So I would hate for you to get stuck with a group of casual iPhone shooters who won't leave camp before sunrise, won't come back late after sunset, won't stay out at lunch to track a kill, or really position your landcruiser where you'll want to be with your telephotos. iPhone users need to be close, and you'll want to be positioned farther back at a distance. I would rather have the iPhone group situation happen to you at Lewa than Elewana. You can get lucky and be grouped with a like minded photographers, but I wouldn't count on it. Things can get real tense in shared vehicles. Just my 2c....Show more →
I know, that is exactly what I’m worried about!
Completely separate question, have you ever stayed at the Kicheche camp in Ol Pejeta?
Tim D. wrote:
I know, that is exactly what I’m worried about!
Completely separate question, have you ever stayed at the Kicheche camp in Ol Pejeta?
No I haven't been there. And if I'm going back to Laikipia it's to chase Giza again at LWC, that's about the only reason I would go back up North. Are you looking to visit the last two northern white rhinos up there? As far as brands, Kicheche, Elewana, Great Plains, &Beyond, Angama, Asilia etc are all top notch camps and the accommodations will exceed your expectations, so it's just all about which regions you want to visit. And if you are like me, you won't get to enjoy the luxury much because you'll be first out and last in every day, and then hustle to eat/backup/recharge/organize/clean for another 530am exit in pure darkness to start your next day, and have your meals packed to eat a lot of them in the bush.
Back to sharing a vehicle, we tracked a cheetah in the Mara for almost 8hrs, and got to witness the kill, while some friends in a shared vehicle had to go back for lunch and missed it. Sometimes this happens, so having the flexibility of your own rig is really amazing, but it costs a fortune. Safari happens so quick, time flies, and you'll be glad you had a private vehicle in the conservancies. Not to mention being able to get out of the vehicle often and wander around on foot. In the end, it will all be worth it, even if you blow out the budget.
Tim D. wrote:
Thanks artsupreme for the suggestion on Nairobi NP (and Adele for confirming it was worthwhile). If I decide not to go up to Lewa, that would be a good choice. I’m now teetering between doing that with Amboseli and Mara, or blowing the budget and doing Amboseli, Lewa, and Mara.
It’s the private vehicle costs that are really adding up. Elewana is charging $540/day extra for that. So trying to decide if I should do that on all the days at Amboseli and Lewa, or just do it some of the days? I’m definitely going to do it on all the days in the Mara at the Kicheche camps.
Does anyone have experience in a shared vehicle at the Elewana camps? Am I going to just end up frustrated, or is that a place to save some money? ...Show more →
It's a bit of a crap shoot. The guide will ask what everyone is interested in and then let you know what they've heard that day. There's a pride of lions nearby, or maybe the elephants have moved into the Park. They'll make a suggestion and it's up to the group to decide. So, it lends itself to being up to the loudest to decide for everyone. If there's a birder, they'll want to stop a lot, for example. Guides try to keep it moving, but they have a tough job keeping everyone happy. Usually they'll share what they think is the most interesting thing and try to lead people that way. If you're with photographers, you're probably fine to save the money. If it's me, I'm budgeting for the private vehicle.
Keep in mind early December is the end of the short rainy season. The lake bed might not be an option, though rain helps clear out dust blocking Kilimanjaro.
We went with Great Plains in the Mara and stayed at their lodge in Chyulu, where I did a day trip over to Amboseli. The hide at their lodge is fantastic,, especially if One Ton is around.
I know this is the Africa thread, but there are just so many knowledgable folks here! We are thinking of a trip to the Pantanal in 2027. But we are a family of three, so while photography is a large part of it, it's also a family trip. But I'm looking for any recommendations for lodges/outfitters in the Pantanal who I might check with. We are thinking roughly 10-12 days, staying at maybe three lodges, focus on birds, big cats, and maybe some other mammals (anteaters, capybaras, etc). If anyone has experiences to share I would love to hear some. Thank you!
Cduff406 wrote:
I know this is the Africa thread, but there are just so many knowledgable folks here! We are thinking of a trip to the Pantanal in 2027. But we are a family of three, so while photography is a large part of it, it's also a family trip. But I'm looking for any recommendations for lodges/outfitters in the Pantanal who I might check with. We are thinking roughly 10-12 days, staying at maybe three lodges, focus on birds, big cats, and maybe some other mammals (anteaters, capybaras, etc). If anyone has experiences to share I would love to hear some. Thank you!...Show more →
Cduff406 wrote:
Thanks, I swear I searched a few times but that never came up!
When you click on the search glass at the top right and this window pops up, use the white enhanced by Google search at the bottom to type in Pantanal.
VKM2F wrote:
It's a bit of a crap shoot. The guide will ask what everyone is interested in and then let you know what they've heard that day. There's a pride of lions nearby, or maybe the elephants have moved into the Park. They'll make a suggestion and it's up to the group to decide. So, it lends itself to being up to the loudest to decide for everyone. If there's a birder, they'll want to stop a lot, for example. Guides try to keep it moving, but they have a tough job keeping everyone happy. Usually they'll share what they think is the most interesting thing and try to lead people that way. If you're with photographers, you're probably fine to save the money. If it's me, I'm budgeting for the private vehicle.
Keep in mind early December is the end of the short rainy season. The lake bed might not be an option, though rain helps clear out dust blocking Kilimanjaro....Show more →
This mirrors my experience to some extent. I went on a Botswana safari with Pangolin. It was photography focused, which made the group a lot more reasonable then it could have been, at least based on my observation of other tour groups when I was there. I would have HATED being part of any of the non-photography focused tours I witnessed. The guide did a good job of directing us and trying to meet the needs of the group. We did have a serious birder in my group and there were a couple of instances of us stopping to a point that irritated a few in my group. I am generally into the birding, so it didn't bother me most of the time but would have been really annoying if I had no interest in bird photography. I noticed our guide being assertive at times to make decisions to keep going to reach a certain goal or interest that aligned with what other people wanted to see. He got more this way towards the end I noticed. My guess is that he picked up on some "birder fatigue" with a few of the members of our group.
I went on the off-season special on the Chobe river, which meant that we divided our time between being on boats on the river and the safari trucks. The time spent on the boat was excellent. Decent room between each person with virtually no issues in missing shots due to the other group members. Each spot also has a built in gimbal mount, which is really great. A lot of times I went for lower angle and used the edge of the boat instead of the gimbal, but I liked using it for larger mammals, birds and more distant subjects.
On the truck was "ok." We shared seats with the other people and some seats were obviously better than others. The front seat on both sides was usually really good and the far back seats were the worst. The back seat was also more elevated, which I didn't like, since I was usually going for lower angle shots that I have a strong preference for. I was able to hang over the side and get the shots, but it definitely was a challenge sometimes. The only serious problem I had was during a lion kill. It happened about 50 yards ahead of me, but the seat I was in that day (back seat, on the opposite side of the kill) prevented me being able to get into position with the 600mm lens fast enough to get the shot. I still got to see it, which was amazing by itself and I'm grateful for the experience, and I realize that a lot of people don't see a kill at all in person.
Overall, I was very pleased with my experience and actually think it was a good deal for how great it was. I would love to have a future experience with a private vehicle when I return. I feel like it's all a compromise between budget and experience, and there is nothing wrong with more group oriented trips if that's what the budget allows. Just make sure it's some kind of photography focused experience.
I've booked my entire trip to Tanzania & Kenya for next year as the solo vehicle passenger because I want to ensure I'm in the right seating/standing position to get the best pictures possible and stay at sightings as long as I desire. Murphy's Law would likely have me on the wrong side of a crowded vehicle when the best the best sightings occur or have someone video recording their daily safari tour with constant voice overs while I'm trying to video record wildlife activities and sounds. Your rate of $540 per day at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy beats my rate of $800 per day. If your budget allows, go solo to reduce the obstacles and ensure a rewarding trip.
Yep, I agree and that’s what I went with. For Lewa, I ended up booking with Lewa Wilderness Camp and they charged a little less for the exclusive use vehicle at $360/day. In the Mara at Kicheche, the private use photography vehicle was $405/day.
I ended up deciding on 3 nights in Amboseli, 3 in Lewa, and 6 in Mara split between Olare and Naboisho. Can’t wait (but I have to because it is still a long way off)! I appreciate everyone’s advice here.
Sage11 wrote:
I've booked my entire trip to Tanzania & Kenya for next year as the solo vehicle passenger because I want to ensure I'm in the right seating/standing position to get the best pictures possible and stay at sightings as long as I desire. Murphy's Law would likely have me on the wrong side of a crowded vehicle when the best the best sightings occur or have someone video recording their daily safari tour with constant voice overs while I'm trying to video record wildlife activities and sounds. Your rate of $540 per day at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy beats my rate of $800 per day. If your budget allows, go solo to reduce the obstacles and ensure a rewarding trip....Show more →
Has anyone stayed at Mahali Mazuri? Thinking about planning a last minute trip this summer and want to know how well it works for people who are serious about photography (assuming we get a private vehicle, etc).
From what I read the OMC is among the best for wildlife density but it looks like Mahali is located far afield of some of the other lodges - trying to figure out if animals tend to be evenly distributed or if we'll spend a lot of time driving to other parts of the reserve
