ilkka_nissila wrote:
When using the 105 MC the option to select mechanical shutter is also disabled in the camera menu. There is Auto and EFCS that can be selected. I am not sure what the camera actually does at fast shutter speeds, does it use mechanical or always EFCS. Nikon should probably give users at least the option to choose which shutter they use. I get it that Nikon are trying to protect users from their own mistakes (of using mechanical shutter when it is detrimental to sharpness). On the other hand when using the Z 85/1.8 S, all three options are available. This makes sense as in a lens commonly used for portraits, out of focus rendering may be considered critical. I haven't noticed anything but excellent bokeh from the 105 MC though, even though using EFCS....Show more →
Removing the option to select mechanical shutter is aggravating. I very much dislike EFC for most situations. You are doing long exposures, you press the shutter and you have no clue whether the shutter activated or not. 30s later you find out you have been pissing away time while the light is changing on you. This is the reason why I keep the shutter set to mechanical. Are there any useful workarounds short of getting the camera to beep at me at every shutter press?
GroovyGeek wrote:
Removing the option to select mechanical shutter is aggravating. I very much dislike EFC for most situations. You are doing long exposures, you press the shutter and you have no clue whether the shutter activated or not. 30s later you find out you have been pissing away time while the light is changing on you. This is the reason why I keep the shutter set to mechanical. Are there any useful workarounds short of getting the camera to beep at me at every shutter press?
Use a self timer and you'll get the flashing indicator on the front of the body. You should be using a self timer or remote trigger for long exposures anyways, so this is really just part of the workflow regardless and solves your problem by giving you a physical indication.
GroovyGeek wrote:
Removing the option to select mechanical shutter is aggravating. I very much dislike EFC for most situations. You are doing long exposures, you press the shutter and you have no clue whether the shutter activated or not. 30s later you find out you have been pissing away time while the light is changing on you. This is the reason why I keep the shutter set to mechanical. Are there any useful workarounds short of getting the camera to beep at me at every shutter press?
Z7II counts down on the top display, I really like that, I'm not sure if other cameras with top display do the same.
RoamingScott wrote:
Use a self timer and you'll get the flashing indicator on the front of the body. You should be using a self timer or remote trigger for long exposures anyways, so this is really just part of the workflow regardless and solves your problem by giving you a physical indication.
Not sure I was seeking advice on photographic technique . For exposures in the 3-30s range a remote trigger adds little/nothing to the quality of the image (any mechanical vibration is a minor part of the total exposure) and is just another wire to hang around in the dark and get damaged. The connection on the Zx series is not particularly robust, both on the body and most remotes I have looked at, which s one more reason to avoid it. Having an RF dongle permanently attached is not my cup of tea either. Plus, when I do need exposure longer than 30s I am more inclined to break it up into multiple frames and just stack at the end, which can be accomplished with the interval shooting menu. Not sure that a blinking front-facing indicator is a great idea either. Don't wide angle lenses pick it up during night photography when te framing includes a close FG?
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cvrle59 wrote:
Z7II counts down on the top display, I really like that, I'm not sure if other cameras with top display do the same.
That is really a nice feature. Alas the Z6 does not have it, the top LCD remains unchanged throughout the exposure and the only indicator that something is happening is the rear LCD and viewvinder go completely dark (I am on the latest firmware). Alas if Nikon has not added it by now they likely never will. Not sure what they were thinking. Same deal with the "return to infinity on power up" feature/bug. They pleasantly surprised me when they fixed it on the Z6/Z7 but I don't think they will do so with this.
The self timer light does not illuminate during exposure, not sure what you’re asking about in terms of wide angles.
GroovyGeek wrote:
Not sure I was seeking advice on photographic technique . For exposures in the 3-30s range a remote trigger adds little/nothing to the quality of the image (any mechanical vibration is a minor part of the total exposure) and is just another wire to hang around in the dark and get damaged. The connection on the Zx series is not particularly robust, both on the body and most remotes I have looked at, which s one more reason to avoid it. Having an RF dongle permanently attached is not my cup of tea either. Plus, when I do need exposure longer than 30s I am more inclined to break it up into multiple frames and just stack at the end, which can be accomplished with the interval shooting menu. Not sure that a blinking front-facing indicator is a great idea either. Don't wide angle lenses pick it up during night photography when te framing includes a close FG?
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That is really a nice feature. Alas the Z6 does not have it, the top LCD remains unchanged throughout the exposure and the only indicator that something is happening is the rear LCD and viewvinder go completely dark (I am on the latest firmware). Alas if Nikon has not added it by now they likely never will. Not sure what they were thinking. Same deal with the "return to infinity on power up" feature/bug. They pleasantly surprised me when they fixed it on the Z6/Z7 but I don't think they will do so with this.
GroovyGeek wrote:
Removing the option to select mechanical shutter is aggravating. I very much dislike EFC for most situations. You are doing long exposures, you press the shutter and you have no clue whether the shutter activated or not. 30s later you find out you have been pissing away time while the light is changing on you. This is the reason why I keep the shutter set to mechanical. Are there any useful workarounds short of getting the camera to beep at me at every shutter press?
Doesn't the EVF and/or LCD screen blackout for long exposures on mirrorless cameras? If the shutter is not open then you would see a LV image.
For my long exposures of fungi the camera is inverted on a tripod. I use a JJC cabled remote which has a LCD screen with a timer on it.
One person's preference is another person's requirement. A feature you can turn on/off is almost by definition a preference.
On the original topic: all of the above workarounds require additional equipment and IMO can be clunky in the field. Nikon clearly recognized the need for such a feature when they added a countdown timer on the II bodies. Wonder why they did not implement it retroactively in the mkI bodies. Seems like something that can be done entirely in software: open shutter; if exposure > X seconds loop for X with countdown; close shutter.
GroovyGeek wrote:
One person's preference is another person's requirement. A feature you can turn on/off is almost by definition a preference.
On the original topic: all of the above workarounds require additional equipment and IMO can be clunky in the field. Nikon clearly recognized the need for such a feature when they added a countdown timer on the II bodies. Wonder why they did not implement it retroactively in the mkI bodies. Seems like something that can be done entirely in software: open shutter; if exposure > X seconds loop for X with countdown; close shutter.
They do not all require additional equipment.
I think the point being made is simply the camera has certain features. We have to learn to do what we want to do within that feature set. Complaining about a feature we wish the camera had is OK, but does not solve the issue. Folks here were trying to help you use the camera you have. Clearly that is better than just commiserating with you.
gdsf2 wrote:
They do not all require additional equipment.
I think the point being made is simply the camera has certain features. We have to learn to do what we want to do within that feature set. Complaining about a feature we wish the camera had is OK, but does not solve the issue. Folks here were trying to help you use the camera you have. Clearly that is better than just commiserating with you.
But often such discussions result in workarounds posted by those approaching it in a different way. "Complaining" can end up instigating productive discussions.
GroovyGeek wrote:
One person's preference is another person's requirement. A feature you can turn on/off is almost by definition a preference.
On the original topic: all of the above workarounds require additional equipment and IMO can be clunky in the field. Nikon clearly recognized the need for such a feature when they added a countdown timer on the II bodies. Wonder why they did not implement it retroactively in the mkI bodies. Seems like something that can be done entirely in software: open shutter; if exposure > X seconds loop for X with countdown; close shutter.
Given that you cannot fully control the front shutter behavior on the Z 100-400, if hearing the front curtain at all shutter speeds is a requirement, you simply can not use this lens, full stop, unless Nikon patches this behavior. I suspect they won't.
Otherwise, you can use one of any easy to use workarounds. Those are the 2 options.
Any further discussion is simply handwringing that a personal preference can't be achieved.
1bwana1 wrote:
But often such discussions result in workarounds posted by those approaching it in a different way. "Complaining" can end up instigating productive discussions.
So, you are agreeing with me when I said "Complaining about a feature we wish the camera had is OK, but does not solve the issue. Folks here were trying to help you use the camera you have. Clearly that is better than just commiserating with you."
gdsf2 wrote:
So, you are agreeing with me when I said "Complaining about a feature we wish the camera had is OK, but does not solve the issue. Folks here were trying to help you use the camera you have. Clearly that is better than just commiserating with you."
Of course I agree that finding solutions is better than complaining.
I found this thread after I made a new post about issues I was having with this lens. VR + focus issues w/my Z7. Figure I'll post the link here, if you all don't mind. Thank you.
westsdad wrote:
Here are the Tilta Focus GearRing (Amazon link above) sizes that fit the *control* ring on the following Z S lenses:
For Control Ring on the Lens
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81-83mm GearRing for Z MC 105mm f/2.8 VR S Lens
72-74mm GearRing for Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S Lens
72-74mm GearRing for Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S Lens
72-74mm GearRing for Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S Lens
88-90mm GearRing for Z 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 VR S Lens
No Control Ring on the Lens
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Z 85mm f/1.8 S Lens
clickmepp wrote:
69-71mm GearRing for Z 24-120mm f/4.0 S
Bought a few different sizes of the Tilta through Amazon for the 100-400 S. The 81-83 mm is the best fit for the 100-400 S. Returned the other larger sizes to Amazon. Thanks for posting the size for the 24-120 - now if I can ever find a copy of that lens, I know what size to buy
James Farrell wrote:
Bought a few different sizes of the Tilta through Amazon for the 100-400 S. The 81-83 mm is the best fit for the 100-400 S. Returned the other larger sizes to Amazon. Thanks for posting the size for the 24-120 - now if I can ever find a copy of that lens, I know what size to buy
I bought SmallRig 72-74 Dia size for Z 24-120 S but it was big. Finally I figured out 69-71mm fits well.
I just got my 100-400 last week. I'll go for 81-83 size ring.
. For exposures in the 3-30s range a remote trigger adds little/nothing to the quality of the image (any mechanical vibration is a minor part of the total exposure) and is just another wire to hang around in the dark and get damaged. The connection on the Zx series is not particularly robust, both on the body and most remotes I have looked at, which s one more reason to avoid it. Having an RF dongle permanently attached is not my cup of tea either. Plus, when I do need exposure longer than 30s I am more inclined to break it up into multiple frames and just stack at the end, which can be accomplished with the interval shooting menu. Not sure that a blinking front-facing indicator is a great idea either. Don't wide angle lenses pick it up during night photography when te framing includes a close FG?
