jedibrain wrote:
I'm using an R6. I also have a 5D3. Mostly 100-400 vII for sports. Even if the body doesn't match exactly, I'd be curious to learn the steps.
Brian
The R6 is pretty darn clean, almost a bit too surgical (implying raw NR IMO). Here is a write up I did for the 5D3 though.
For the R6 (and 5D4), I am just using these guidelines:
- Make sure WB is correct (I shoot and set a custom WB at each event)
- Turn down the picture style you use so that sharpening isn't very aggressive.
- Set up High ISO NR to either low or off (which isn't off at all, just a lower scale NR)
- Bring JPGs into photoshop and run an action that does:
o USM for micro contrast (google Unsharp Mask for Contrast to see why I do this)
o Noiseware run (settings dependent on camera and ISO levels)
o USM for details
o One last Noiseware run that is very very low just to clean up any sharpening artifacts
o Saturation changes as needed (due to ever lower DR and color fidelity you see in Canon high ISO files)
This is my basic set up for my R6 and 5D4, much simpler than the actions I have for the 7D2 and prior bodies. Those actions went into every color channel and performed clean up at different levels for each due to how noisy or clean Canon files are in the R/G/B space.
I have run my 5D4 through various comparisons, when I first got it, to compare how in-camera JPG looked to properly processed raw files into JPGs. The 5D4 was the first camera I have owned where there was so very little to be gained in working raw first. The JPG was just good enough right from the camera with the proper settings. It was nice! All other bodies I have owned showed very large differences in in-camera JPG vs properly processed raw files.
Ming-Tzu wrote:
In the past, I've gotten wonderful advice from this forum on sports photography (e.g. lenses, settings, positioning, NR adjustments, etc.). For the most part, I am happy with my field sports photography (e.g. soccer, baseball, etc.). But my indoor sports pictures are somewhat lacking (imo) because the school's gym isn't that great as far as lighting and my NR skills are lackluster. Currently, I am probably shooting around 20,000 ISO at f2.8 and 500-640 SS. For indoor, I primarily use a 1dx2/5d4 and 24/70 L and 70-200 L.
I was thinking of maybe setting up 1-2 off-camera flashes and see if I could use lower ISO settings, but have been reluctant in the past to use any sort of flash indoors because I feel like it might be a distraction. But my thinking has mainly been on-camera and never really considered that maybe off-camera flash might be better, especially if the flashes are off to the side of the court and not directly ahead of the player?
For example, indoor volleyball. My thinking is maybe setting up a flash stand maybe 5-10 feet on the side of the court, pointing towards my school's site of the net. I would be situated as always, underneath the judge's stand. Would a flash this far away from the court and off to the side be a distraction to the player who is getting ready to strike the ball? Same example for indoor basketball. Flash stand 5-10 feet on the side of the court near-ish to the corner where my school is on offense. If the player goes in for a layup or jump shot, will a flash that far away be a distraction?
I realize these aren't pro players, hence my hesitation to be a distraction. I'm just trying to figure out if there's a better way to snap more quality pictures for indoor sports (outside of PP).
It's been awhile since I shot any high school basketball, but that gym sounds dark to me. I used 40D + 50/1.8, for one, and iso tops out at 3200. So I think you should consider 85/1.8 , available under $300. If you get a good enough deal might be able to use it a bit then sell it in a few months if you don't like it without losing much.
First of all 1/640th is still too slow for sports action, or at a very minimum, there will be several burst shots that will have to be tossed due to motion blur. Also a fixed lens for a basketball or soccer game is so very restrictive, which means the only real action you are going to shoot for some good close up shots will all be half court, and perhaps even less than that.
So yes using a fixed fast prime would allow the shutter speed to be more of what it has to be (about 1 stop faster), but the ISO will still be high. You are trading framing flexibility for faster shutter speeds to stop motion, but ISO is still going to be something that has to be post processed out. It has been a while since I have used the 85 1.8, but I am not sure I would like the ring type USM AF motor for sports. It may be ok, and yes, you can get one cheap, try it out, and sell it if it doesn't work out.
That being said, the 5d4 at 20K should still be usable.
