Nice! I just noticed that you can drag the sensor area around within the image circle to check how much shift you can get.
Been thinking of a Cambo Actus to use with P67 lenses, but it's really expensive.
Interesting to compare the IC diameters for TS-E 17/4L and TS-E 24/3.5L II, relative to the 35mm sensor size. Also, interesting to see the relative size of the iPhone 6 sensor. Magnification (or lack of) rules !
It would be nice to see some older M645 and P645 lenses here.
I've been doing it the hard way, with circles and rectangles in a PowerPoint file I made. This helps me figure out how much movement I might be able to get. Windows being Windows, you have to set your system-level measurement unit to metric in order to have metric in PowerPoint! It's worth it for this purpose because it lets me easily define the sizes of image circles and sensor areas.
Complicating factors are that the usable image circle changes in size based on focus distance and aperture. And on my P645 45-85mm lens, it changes with zoom setting. At 45mm the image circle is very tight (just big enough to cover 645 film); that still allows useful movements on GFX sensors of up to 10mm. Interestingly, the image circle is huge in the middle of the zoom range. At the 60mm position, I can shift 20mm easily. It gets smaller again towards the 85mm end, but is still larger than at 45mm.
A few images with the Nikkor 50/2. The first one is at f/5.6 and the two following are wide open.
They obviously don't have the exact same aspect ratio, so I've probably cropped a millimeter or two somewhere, but they are virtually using the full 33x44 mm sensor.
You can see the heavy curvature of field in the first image, which actually is worse than when shooting at f/2.8. Wide open the vignetting is a bit heavy for my liking, unless you get fairly close. At 6:7 the lens is mostly usable at any aperture and distance.
Regarding Mamiya 120 Macro there are 2 versions. I wonder how big a difference it is between the 2 versions. The Digital optimized version is 3 times more expensive than the older version. Can someone share share some photos? thanks
I think the second one has an electronic aperture, so check before you buy (unless you want to deal with the hassle of either shooting wide open, or bringing a Mamiya camera to change the aperture).
I actually think there were three versions... One MF, physical aperture, one MF, electronic aperture, and one AF, electronic aperture. Plus, I guess a fourth with a leaf shutter.
The C/Y Sonnar 100mm f3.5 might be a good candidate…
I don't have a Fuji GFX, but rear shift stitching on a Sony A7RM2 with a EOS to Sony-E shift adapter (which gives me approx. 42mm x 36mm sensor size) works very well...
Olaf G wrote:
The C/Y Sonnar 100mm f3.5 might be a good candidate…
I don't have a Fuji GFX, but rear shift stitching on a Sony A7RM2 with a EOS to Sony-E shift adapter (which gives me approx. 42mm x 36mm sensor size) works very well...
Although the C/Y 100 f/3.5 Sonnar is a great lens, I would actually recommend the Hasselblad V mount 100 f/3.5 which is a wonderful lens (and fairly small) and of course covers the image circle with a lot of room to spare. It isn't an expensive lens and a great performer. Even the adapter isn't too expensive. Both lenses are made by Zeiss and bare a family resemblance.
Steve Spencer wrote:
Although the C/Y 100 f/3.5 Sonnar is a great lens, I would actually recommend the Hasselblad V mount 100 f/3.5 which is a wonderful lens (and fairly small) and of course covers the image circle with a lot of room to spare. It isn't an expensive lens and a great performer. Even the adapter isn't too expensive. Both lenses are made by Zeiss and bare a family resemblance.
The Mamiya 645 Sekor 110mm f2.8 is a formidable performer as well. Small and light, with an usable image circle that is bigger than one would expect from a 645 lens.
These are with two combined shift adapters at a equivalent sensor size of approx. 72mm x 40.5mm...
Any experience with the Rokinon 20mm f/1.8? I am interested in this lens as an ultrawide/astro option primarily. I'm fairly happy with the performance on FF and hoping it will hold up on most of the mini-MF sensor too.
Mamiya 80/1.9, soft wide open but in a nice way. Funky bokeh that gets pleasing and uniform already at f/2.8. I haven't tried the 80/2.8 but I would guess the f/1.9 beats it at f/2.8. The worst drawbacks with this lens is the LoCA and 6-bladed aperture (though somewhat rounded).
First two are wide open, the third is at f/16 and the last one at f/2.8.
Makten wrote:
Mamiya 80/1.9, soft wide open but in a nice way. Funky bokeh that gets pleasing and uniform already at f/2.8. I haven't tried the 80/2.8 but I would guess the f/1.9 beats it at f/2.8. The worst drawbacks with this lens is the LoCA and 6-bladed aperture (though somewhat rounded).
First two are wide open, the third is at f/16 and the last one at f/2.8.
Stunning pictures, love the first one (Renault 17?).
IMHO the biggest drawback of this lens is its curvature of field which makes it difficult to use it as a landscape lens.
Olaf G wrote:
Stunning pictures, love the first one (Renault 17?).
IMHO the biggest drawback of this lens is its curvature of field which makes it difficult to use it as a landscape lens.
Thanks, and yes, it's a Renault. I haven't seen any curvature of field though. I thought it was flatter than most lenses.
The exit pupil is really far from the sensor, like 10-12 cm, so the filter stack shouldn't be involved in any FC at least.
If you need a 28mm lens that can shift on a GFX 50R/S camera, the Nikon PC-Nikkor 28mm f/3.5 is worth a look.
I'm pleasantly surprised by how well this lens does on a GFX sensor. It covers the sensor with room to spare. Shifts of 5mm are reliably good, and larger shifts are possible depending on the scenario. It's decently sharp and the colours are lovely. Its only weaknesses is it's crap (or my copy is anyway) on flat subjects at the minimum focus distance of 30 cm. By 1 metre it's fine. Don't buy it to make copies of your paintings. But for many other types of photography it's a good choice if you need 28mm with some movements.
I plan to buy the Fringe Contax 645 to GF adapter then a few Contax 645 lenses like the 120mm, 140mm, the 1.4x Mutar, maybe others. The adapter isn't cheap but the lenses are and they are very good for the most part.
When I had a Contax 645 I found the 45-90mm to be sharper at 45mm than the prime
But for many other types of photography it's a good choice if you need 28mm with some movements.