johngiat wrote:
Any suggestions on improving the reliability of the 610 with the Canon ST3? I've been having on again off again problems with the 610 not firing even while the Canon speedlites do fire (background or fill light)
I just experienced it again a few days ago on a shoot. Came home and tried to replicate the problem and the 610 fired each and every time!!??
Is one channel / ID combo better than another?
Is the Version 3 firmware update helpful? (I have V2)
Purchased the 610 late October about a month and a half ago.
I am experiencing similar problems. I am using the V3 firmware.
johngiat wrote:
Any suggestions on improving the reliability of the 610 with the Canon ST3? I've been having on again off again problems with the 610 not firing even while the Canon speedlites do fire (background or fill light)
I just experienced it again a few days ago on a shoot. Came home and tried to replicate the problem and the 610 fired each and every time!!??
Is one channel / ID combo better than another?
Is the Version 3 firmware update helpful? (I have V2)
Purchased the 610 late October about a month and a half ago.
For whatever it's worth, I'm still on firmware V2 and using my 610's with the basic Orlit TR-611C transmitter (I've been meaning to pick up the new one that just launched, especially since it's been on sale), and having some issues with my 5D Mark III. The transmitter, frankly, makes me a little bit crazy. For whatever reason, it often doesn't like to switch on while on the hotshoe of my camera- unless take it off of the hot shoe to switch it on, it will just sit there frozen with a backlit but unpopulated screen. It also seems to eat batteries, and not really work well with Eneloop/NiMH voltages- it shuts off frequently when on NiMH batteries.
Also, on the 610's, I've noticed that the battery level meters are sort of misleading. When I'm at 1-2 bars, I start seeing the unit just shutting off on its own, or just generally losing sync and messing up the flow of my shoot by needing a restart.
I'm sort of regretting investing in the Orlit system over Godox, especially since the Rover RT has been in pre-order status since May with no real updates. I haven't heard of anything else for the Orlit/Jinbei system that would be more portable (oh, what I would do for something like an AD200 that worked on this system), so I've kind of been pinning my hopes on the Rover for the past 7 months or so. I'm hoping that new firmware and the new transmitter will improve the Orlit experience, but even if it does, I don't see how the system is a real alternative to Godox, with the breadth of products they now offer.
Re Contacting the Tech team. I’ve tried 3 times via the phone number and each time I ended up with a voice msg I left 3 msgs for a callback Re 610 Rovelite bit so far no call back from them
I do have an idea that I will try when I get back to my office. The ST3 has a scan function to determine best channel. Perhaps the reason for the seemingly random problems is that the channel I have set is fine in some locations but not optimal in others. I will run a scan at each different location to see if setting the 610 to the best channel as scanned by the ST3 resolves the problem
johngiat wrote:
Re Contacting the Tech team. I’ve tried 3 times via the phone number and each time I ended up with a voice msg I left 3 msgs for a callback Re 610 Rovelite bit so far no call back from them
I do have an idea that I will try when I get back to my office. The ST3 has a scan function to determine best channel. Perhaps the reason for the seemingly random problems is that the channel I have set is fine in some locations but not optimal in others. I will run a scan at each different location to see if setting the 610 to the best channel as scanned by the ST3 resolves the problem...Show more →
You are better off emailing [email protected] rather than calling. It's only a small team, and if they are all tied up on other calls it will be frustrating for you trying to get through.
clonardo wrote:
For whatever it's worth, I'm still on firmware V2 and using my 610's with the basic Orlit TR-611C transmitter (I've been meaning to pick up the new one that just launched, especially since it's been on sale), and having some issues with my 5D Mark III. The transmitter, frankly, makes me a little bit crazy. For whatever reason, it often doesn't like to switch on while on the hotshoe of my camera- unless take it off of the hot shoe to switch it on, it will just sit there frozen with a backlit but unpopulated screen. It also seems to eat batteries, and not really work well with Eneloop/NiMH voltages- it shuts off frequently when on NiMH batteries.
Also, on the 610's, I've noticed that the battery level meters are sort of misleading. When I'm at 1-2 bars, I start seeing the unit just shutting off on its own, or just generally losing sync and messing up the flow of my shoot by needing a restart.
I'm sort of regretting investing in the Orlit system over Godox, especially since the Rover RT has been in pre-order status since May with no real updates. I haven't heard of anything else for the Orlit/Jinbei system that would be more portable (oh, what I would do for something like an AD200 that worked on this system), so I've kind of been pinning my hopes on the Rover for the past 7 months or so. I'm hoping that new firmware and the new transmitter will improve the Orlit experience, but even if it does, I don't see how the system is a real alternative to Godox, with the breadth of products they now offer....Show more →
I finally put 2 and 2 together and determined the same thing about the battery level last weekend. All of my sync problems have been happening later in a shoot, when the battery level is lower. And yes, I does mess up the flow of a shoot. And it's embarrassing and unprofessional.
In addition to losing sync, TTL seems to be much less reliable when the battery level is lower.
I've used both the old and new Orlit transmitters, but I have better luck with the Canon ST-E3-RT, and the Canon also allows me more control in the camera menu, which is my preference. Oddly enough, several times I have had trouble with the Canon ST-E3-RT not being recognized by the camera (Canon 5D4).
I ordered another battery for the RT610 yesterday. But wow, it's almost half the cost of the strobe with battery... If I shot in a studio more often I would get the AC adapter for the RT610. Maybe someday...
If a second battery eliminates most of my problems I may get another RT610 because I like the system for the most part, and I think it's reasonably priced (except additional batteries).
I recently bought the Orlit RT 610 (for Canon). They are up to V 3.1 on the firmware. Although I have not used the unit very much, it seems to work very well with the Canon ST-E3-RT. I have the Yongnuo 600RTs and the Canon trigger works well (for me) with them. I played with the Orlit trigger before I found the firmware update (it had v2 when delivered ). When I started using it with the v2., there were dropped connections with the ST trigger. Have not found that to be the case with newer firmware. Again, I have not drained the battery enough to see if that issue comes up. Oh..I'm using the Canon 80D. Have an M5 also but have not tried the Orlit with it, although I don;t expect problems, since the ST-E3-RT works well with my Yongnou's
I used the 610 last Saturday evening with speedlights for fill. Never needed the second battery. Didn't have any problems with lost RF connection, but TTL exposure was off several times, and in about every 25-30 shots it completely blew out the exposure.
I photographed kids with Santa in a large grocery store yesterday. With the Canon ST-E3-RT, the Orlit RT 610 would pop once or twice, then nothing. I was trying to use it with speedlites too, but I tried with and without speedlites, TTL, and manual flash, and nothing helped. The Orlit RT 610 would pop once or twice, then nothing.
So I switched to the ORLIT TR-Q6 transmitter and it worked reliably with the RT 610. But no way, no how, could I get the TR-Q6 transmitter to link with any speedlites. I normally use the Canon ST-E3-RT, but I have used the TR-Q6 with speedlites before and I never had any trouble getting it to link with speedlites. The Canon ST-E3-RT had no trouble linking to any speedlites in there yesterday.
I assume the problems were due to lots of fluorescent lights and appliances in the store, but is was not a good situation...
KatManDEW wrote:
I used the 610 last Saturday evening with speedlights for fill. Never needed the second battery. Didn't have any problems with lost RF connection, but TTL exposure was off several times, and in about every 25-30 shots it completely blew out the exposure.
I photographed kids with Santa in a large grocery store yesterday. With the Canon ST-E3-RT, the Orlit RT 610 would pop once or twice, then nothing. I was trying to use it with speedlites too, but I tried with and without speedlites, TTL, and manual flash, and nothing helped. The Orlit RT 610 would pop once or twice, then nothing.
So I switched to the ORLIT TR-Q6 transmitter and it worked reliably with the RT 610. But no way, no how, could I get the TR-Q6 transmitter to link with any speedlites. I normally use the Canon ST-E3-RT, but I have used the TR-Q6 with speedlites before and I never had any trouble getting it to link with speedlites. The Canon ST-E3-RT had no trouble linking to any speedlites in there yesterday.
I assume the problems were due to lots of fluorescent lights and appliances in the store, but is was not a good situation......Show more →
The Orlit Q6 transmitter for canon has 2 modes: RT and RF.
Let’s take a step back and understand why:
Canon created the 600-EX-RT flash which uses its RT radio system. The RT radio system was designed for controlling SPEEDLIGHTS only.
Orlit expanded the line with its own (large) RT monolight units, however these units offer functions not available on speedlights, for example, 1/10 of a stop adjustment, and modeling lamps. While the units will work in RT radio system mode to allow integration with RT speedlights, for maximum function when used with Orlit transmitters and strobes ONLY, you want to use RF mode, which allows these controls.
By default the Orlit TR-Q6-C will be in RF mode, for providing maximum function with Orlit monolights. BUT FOR INTEGRATING WITH SPEEDLIGHTS (FROM CANON OR ORLIT) YOU WILL NEED TO BE IN RT MODE. The easiest way to determine if the transmitter is in RF or RT mode is to be aware that RF mode does not use IDs.
If the transmitter is displaying ONLY channels on the bottom right, it is in RF mode. To switch to RT mode for integrating with speedlights, press the power button briefly. The channel display will now cycle between the channel symbol and the ID symbol. You are now in RT mode. Use the CH button to set both the channel and ID. Remember that the channel and ID must be the same on the transmitter and all units. For maximum stability, use ID 0000 (00) or 0001 (01) only.
Once the unit has “linked” to the remote lights using Canon’s RT protocols, the unit will display a Radio Tower icon. This functions like the green LINK indicator on canon flashes.
Helen Oster wrote:
The Orlit Q6 transmitter for canon has 2 modes: RT and RF.
Let’s take a step back and understand why:
Canon created the 600-EX-RT flash which uses its RT radio system. The RT radio system was designed for controlling SPEEDLIGHTS only.
Orlit expanded the line with its own (large) RT monolight units, however these units offer functions not available on speedlights, for example, 1/10 of a stop adjustment, and modeling lamps. While the units will work in RT radio system mode to allow integration with RT speedlights, for maximum function when used with Orlit transmitters and strobes ONLY, you want to use RF mode, which allows these controls.
By default the Orlit TR-Q6-C will be in RF mode, for providing maximum function with Orlit monolights. BUT FOR INTEGRATING WITH SPEEDLIGHTS (FROM CANON OR ORLIT) YOU WILL NEED TO BE IN RT MODE. The easiest way to determine if the transmitter is in RF or RT mode is to be aware that RF mode does not use IDs.
If the transmitter is displaying ONLY channels on the bottom right, it is in RF mode. To switch to RT mode for integrating with speedlights, press the power button briefly. The channel display will now cycle between the channel symbol and the ID symbol. You are now in RT mode. Use the CH button to set both the channel and ID. Remember that the channel and ID must be the same on the transmitter and all units. For maximum stability, use ID 0000 (00) or 0001 (01) only.
Once the unit has “linked” to the remote lights using Canon’s RT protocols, the unit will display a Radio Tower icon. This functions like the green LINK indicator on canon flashes.
Thank you Helen! That was almost certainly the problem. I remember you posting that information previously. I was so stressed and running short on time by the time that I switched to the TR-Q6-C, that I didn't remember about switching transmission modes.
I normally use the Canon transmitter because I prefer to use the flash menu on the camera (I have it setup on the "Set" button on the camera, for quick access), and I haven't been able to switch to Manual mode using the camera menu and the TR-Q6-C.
