1) unscrew the rear optical core by rotating the retention ring CCW with the spanner tool. It will come out very easily.
Once the ring comes off, the entire optical core can be separated. Great design, easy to maintain the lens. See image:
2) My lens copy (latest model) only had 2 shims and it was optimized for f/2. My first attempt was to remove one of the shims but it overshoots...meaning the stack gets too thin and the RF is no longer optimal for any aperture. So, I tried 1 original shim + a thinner one to get to f/1.5 optimization so I had to make a thin shim. (More on that below)
In your case, since your lens is optimized at f/2.8, your copy may have 3 shims, so if that’s the case, all you need to do is remove one of them to get to f/2 optimization. If you want to go f/1.5....read on...
3) You will need to manufacture your own shims. I did it with a soda can and heavy duty aluminum foil. The former is thinner than the original lens shim and the latter is for fine tuning if needed since it's so thin. (The foil shim was not even needed after all)
I wanted to optimize my copy for f/1.5 and as a first attempt, I left one original shim + a "soda can" one. This did the trick!!
My lens is now optimized for f/1.5. It may be what it takes for your copy as well or you can go the easier route and have it optimized for f/2 with 2 original shims.
If you send it to Zeiss they will probably remove two shims and add an additional thinner one. Very likely they won't use a soda can!
You can let them do it or do it yourself in about 20 minutes time. Let me know if you have any questions about this process.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Took some test shots after optimizing my Sonnar 50 to 'f/1.5'.
I forgot how much I like the character of this lens.
You're right. I saw the various comparisons with the Voigtlander 50mm f2 VM ASPH Apo-Lanthar popping up on the web over the past couple of months and started to doubt the Sonnar qualities.
However, the 50mm Apo-Lanthar draws totally different from the Sonnar and of course the Sonnar has a different purpose - not for landscapes nor for anything close to infinity. At least not if the best resolution is desired.
But for a Sunday morning stroll through town the Sonnar is awesome. Below are a couple of uncropped and only lightly edited examples with my Z7 (in LR with the Cobalt Repro profile!).
The first is wide open (1.5), the second from about the same location at f:8.
Another one from the same stroll to show the Sonnar's nice draw / contrast.
The Sonnar is not razor sharp - not like my 35mm 1.4 Distagon for example. I don't think these lenses would pair well. The opening hours of the Blue Posts are easy to read; the small font of the Chinese menu in the window next to the lady at the table not so much...
I did a quick rendering comparison between the new Voigtlander 50mm f/1.5 Heliar Classic and Zeiss 50mm f/1.5 Sonnar Classic.
Which classic look do you prefer?
The ZM 50/1.5 has character but isn’t overbearing IMO. The new CV 50/1.5 has so much SA and funky bokeh, I’d really only be interested as a special affect lens/for that very specific look, but it’s a look I enjoy, but don’t love. I will say, I do appreciate CV’s mindset here—I applaud manufactures that releases lenses with a distinct signature.
Old thread, mostly dead, but my ZM 50/1.5 has seen a revival now that I have a modded sensor and I absolutely love it. Somehow I always forget how special this lens is.
I've never got rid of mine, despite the extra FC from using in on an unmodded Sony (I have no interest in modding, because it's really the only M lens that I personally really want on Sony). I would love to try to tame the FC with a front filter but can't figure out which I need: it'll he hard, because the ray angle is extreme on this guy.
How many people use this lens on an un-modified A7? I have an original A7 that I'm considering using this lens on. Would prefer not to modify the stack, etc if possible.
weezintrumpete wrote:
How many people use this lens on an un-modified A7? I have an original A7 that I'm considering using this lens on. Would prefer not to modify the stack, etc if possible.
I did on and off since 2014 or so. You can shoot around the filter stack for portrait and shallow DOF and still get lovely photos. It’s just a bit harder and makes the lens less versatile, but still worth it IMO. Not even much of a weak landscape lens with a stock sensor though. I need to do formal testing to see how good it is on a stock sensor, but seems fine by f8--though never perfectly biting like a CV 50 APO or stopped down Loxia 50.
Below are some examples I posted about half-way down the page, on all stock Sony.
I do as well - it makes a great portrait lens. However, I haven’t had great results at smaller apertures. I reach for my Loxia 50 when I want to do landscapes.
weezintrumpete wrote:
How many people use this lens on an un-modified A7? I have an original A7 that I'm considering using this lens on. Would prefer not to modify the stack, etc if possible.
For smaller apertures (landscapes and other types of vistas) I prefer my Voigtlander 50 APO. For story telling and environmental portraits I like the Zeiss 50 1.5 ZM (and the Laowa 35 F/0.95).
Fred Miranda wrote:
Yes! From ‘perfect’ RF focus, I can accurately focus at f1.5 by very slightly turn the focusing ring counter clockwise. For f/2.8 I go the opposite direction. (Clockwise from perfect focus)
It’s more challenging but it works. Of course no issue using EVF.
Really struggling with that focus shift on my M240. Must resist grabbing the evf (or even better my Z7).
After a few years of resistance, I finally caved in and got this lens (at a good price, too). I don't regret it.
Two simple questions:
1. As with other modern Zeiss lenses, the lens cap is atrocious and keeps falling off in my bag; what do people recommend as an alternative?
2. For a hood, is my best bet to go with the Zeiss hood that's made for this lens, or are people happier with a third-party alternative? The flare resistance is so good that I'm not actually sure I need a hood, but it would avoid me having to keep a lens cap on it while it's on my camera.
bjhurley wrote:
After a few years of resistance, I finally caved in and got this lens (at a good price, too). I don't regret it.
Two simple questions:
1. As with other modern Zeiss lenses, the lens cap is atrocious and keeps falling off in my bag; what do people recommend as an alternative?
2. For a hood, is my best bet to go with the Zeiss hood that's made for this lens, or are people happier with a third-party alternative? The flare resistance is so good that I'm not actually sure I need a hood, but it would avoid me having to keep a lens cap on it while it's on my camera....Show more →
1) Voigtlaender caps are the same, try a generic 46mm slimmer one, screw in it a little.
2) Haoge lens hoods are bayonet type and well made, not the cheapest, in Europe, cause weak euro, with import duties and taxes are not worth for few bucks of price tag, but in NAFTA they can cost an half of the branded one.
…easy material to find around the house that is easy to cut with regular scissors.
