Anyone have any tips for using the little tuna with the E-M1ii? I just got a brand new copy for an insane price and I'm pretty happy with the lens except for the autofocus, even after setting up the microadjust.
EDIT: Just to add a bit more detail, the focus accuracy seems ok after setup but the AF precision seems pretty poor.
whumber wrote:
Anyone have any tips for using the little tuna with the E-M1ii? I just got a brand new copy for an insane price and I'm pretty happy with the lens except for the autofocus, even after setting up the microadjust.
EDIT: Just to add a bit more detail, the focus accuracy seems ok after setup but the AF precision seems pretty poor.
My little tuna 150/2.0 SHG requires an AFM of -2. What does yours need?
Could you please define focus accuracy and AF precision?
k-h.a.w wrote:
My little tuna 150/2.0 SHG requires an AFM of -2. What does yours need?
Could you please define focus accuracy and AF precision?
K-H.
An offset of -3 seems to give the best results for me so far. As far as accuracy vs precision, by accuracy I mean there doesn't seem to be any systematic front or back focusing. If I take a series of pictures of a target on average they focus will be on the target. The problem is in the precision in that it seems like focus randomly drifts around the target to a much greater degree than I'm accustomed to seeing. It actually reminds me quite a bit of shooting with the Sigma 50 Art on my old 1Ds3.
whumber wrote:
An offset of -3 seems to give the best results for me so far. As far as accuracy vs precision, by accuracy I mean there doesn't seem to be any systematic front or back focusing. If I take a series of pictures of a target on average they focus will be on the target. The problem is in the precision in that it seems like focus randomly drifts around the target to a much greater degree than I'm accustomed to seeing. It actually reminds me quite a bit of shooting with the Sigma 50 Art on my old 1Ds3.
Thanks, so by precision you seem to describe whether the focus rectangle points at the intended location/subject.
And by accuracy whether that point is in focus or not.
So to increase focus precision the focus rectangle needs to be as small as possible, unless there is no distracting fore- or background.
In the Menu, B.Button/Dial/Lever Button Function I have set Fn2 Function to Magnify.
Now when pressing that button I can choose between 3x and 14x magnification by turning the top/back wheel.
3x magnification results in a huge focus rectangle, 14x in the smallest one.
These settings persist when leaving magnification mode.
So now when using a single focus rectangle I have the smallest area to focus on.
BTW the E-M1II has better focus precision than the E-M1 in my experience.
Please let me know if something else was on your mind and I didn't get it.
k-h.a.w wrote:
Thanks, so by precision you seem to describe whether the focus rectangle points at the intended location/subject.
And by accuracy whether that point is in focus or not.
So to increase focus precision the focus rectangle needs to be as small as possible, unless there is no distracting fore- or background.
In the Menu, B.Button/Dial/Lever Button Function I have set Fn2 Function to Magnify.
Now when pressing that button I can choose between 3x and 14x magnification by turning the top/back wheel.
3x magnification results in a huge focus rectangle, 14x in the smallest one.
These settings persist when leaving magnification mode.
So now when using a single focus rectangle I have the smallest area to focus on.
BTW the E-M1II has better focus precision than the E-M1 in my experience.
Please let me know if something else was on your mind and I didn't get it.
What KHAW said plus this thought: With these longer teles, "hitting" the desired focus point can be tricky. With a OVF, you would never know. But with magnification, manual focus override and the arrow pad, you can adjust the point and do critical focusing.
k-h.a.w wrote:
Thanks, so by precision you seem to describe whether the focus rectangle points at the intended location/subject.
And by accuracy whether that point is in focus or not.
So to increase focus precision the focus rectangle needs to be as small as possible, unless there is no distracting fore- or background.
In the Menu, B.Button/Dial/Lever Button Function I have set Fn2 Function to Magnify.
Now when pressing that button I can choose between 3x and 14x magnification by turning the top/back wheel.
3x magnification results in a huge focus rectangle, 14x in the smallest one.
These settings persist when leaving magnification mode.
So now when using a single focus rectangle I have the smallest area to focus on.
BTW the E-M1II has better focus precision than the E-M1 in my experience.
Please let me know if something else was on your mind and I didn't get it.
Note quite what I mean by precision, it's more about repeatability. The classic demonstration is
There's also the focus point size issue, but that's not unique to the little tuna at all. Even with the magnify focus point, I'm finding that it takes 3-5 attempts to actually hit critical focus; not something I've ever encountered with a m43 lens. It's interesting that LR found a similar issue with focus repeatability. I suspect that their definition of in-focus is not as strict as mine though so I'm probably making the problem sound worse than it is. I think I've just been spoiled between m43 and the newer Canon autofocus performance..
k-h.a.w wrote:
Thanks.
Do you use C-AF or S-AF?
IBIS on or off?
I've tried both C-AF and S-AF, both with IBIS on. I haven't seen a huge difference between S-AF and C-AF in terms of precision on a static subject with the exception that C-AF will periodically start hunting a bit.
C-AF in sequential mode is probably better with IS Off or S-IS2 i.e. for horizontal panning.
whumber wrote:
I've tried both C-AF and S-AF, both with IBIS on. I haven't seen a huge difference between S-AF and C-AF in terms of precision on a static subject with the exception that C-AF will periodically start hunting a bit.
Frankly I haven't either but it just makes more sense to me, as usually for action/motion your shutter speed is more important and IS doesn't really help - if anything, it will just slow down the AF.
whumber wrote:
I haven't played around with changing IBIS settings, I'll give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
The E-M1.2 is my first foray into mirrorless. These maybe very simple questions, that have been answered, but I did not find them. So please forgive me , it answered before.
Is it normal for the camera to feel hot ?
When taking a series of shots using single point AF/C , is it normal for some in the sequence to be out of focus .
No, it is not normal for the camera to feel hot. Maybe very slightly but not "hot". You may have a faulty battery or something. Is it the same your other battery/batteries?
I don't have much experience with C-AF but I am inclined to say Yes to your 2nd question.
birdied wrote:
The E-M1.2 is my first foray into mirrorless. These maybe very simple questions, that have been answered, but I did not find them. So please forgive me , it answered before.
Is it normal for the camera to feel hot ?
When taking a series of shots using single point AF/C , is it normal for some in the sequence to be out of focus .
bobbytan wrote:
No, it is not normal for the camera to feel hot. Maybe very slightly but not "hot". You may have a faulty battery or something. Is it the same your other battery/batteries?
I don't have much experience with C-AF but I am inclined to say Yes to your 2nd question.
It is the same with all the batteries. I have 3 batteries.
Maybe someone else can chip in. I don't leave my camera On for a long time, so maybe that's why I have not noticed if it gets hot. I make a habit of turning the camera Off when I stop shooing, even for just 5 minutes or less ... to save battery, and also to keep the noise level to a minimum - as more heat = more noise.
birdied wrote:
It is the same with all the batteries. I have 3 batteries.
bobbytan wrote:
Maybe someone else can chip in. I don't leave my camera On for a long time, so maybe that's why I have not noticed if it gets hot. I make a habit of turning the camera Off when I stop shooing, even for just 5 minutes or less ... to save battery, and also to keep the noise level to a minimum - as more heat = more noise.
It could be that , plus the heat we have outside. I will try turning in off when not shooting. I just went out in the rain , with lower temps and it did not heat up.
Birdie, can we have more info about the caf burst? What settings you had, what subject, etc? Specifically, what caf lock setting you used, did you keep the subject under the single point, were you using Low Burst as high only focuses on the first shot.
Bob
Ps, it's been really hot here and the black camera body retains heat from the sun, could that be your issue?
Bobg657 wrote:
Birdie, can we have more info about the caf burst? What settings you had, what subject, etc? Specifically, what caf lock setting you used, did you keep the subject under the single point, were you using Low Burst as high only focuses on the first shot.
Bob
Ps, it's been really hot here and the black camera body retains heat from the sun, could that be your issue?
Thanks Bob. It has been very hot here as well. Yes, guess that could be part of the issue. Although, I never noticed it with the Nikon gear.
Subject was hummingbird. Hummingbird was under the single point. I even had some shots that the green focus square was showing on bird when viewed on the SCP. However when zoomed in, subject was not in focus I used sequential low burst, single point , C-AF. with C2. Today I changed that to C3 , reprogramed some buttons to try the back button auto focus to see if that helps. Still trying to figure out what buttons are most comfortable to do that with.
