So I bought the B1, and I have a few quick questions maybe someone can answer without me having to scour the internet (considering the product is quite new, I doubt I'll find the answer anyway).
In doing a few test shots of my Christmas tree. It seems the thing is pretty spot on, in fact, (maybe because of the modifier) but it seems to give me more accurate (to my eye) exposures then my 600EX-RT flash.
There are two problems however:
1) When I switch to HSS it overexposes everything by 2-3 stops. I'm using a 5D3 for the test. I thought that MAYBE on HSS it cannot power down low enough to match my exposure.. But who knows why it's acting up, that's why I'm asking!
2) What would be the best way to trigger a Leica S and M240 in manual mode? I only ask because the Canon TTL controller doesn't even allow the Leica cameras to trigger the flash. Even in manual mode. Is there a Pocketwizard that's compatible with the B1 inner antenna?
One funny thing I noticed in my quick tests. The spot metering mode tends to overexpose the subject by about 1/2-1 full stop. And if I put it onto (@) or ( ) mode it doesn't have any issues understanding what I'm trying to achieve.. Even with a darker background or a lighter background. Weird right? (BTW I know that on my 5D3 spot metering is only the centre point, unlike with my 1Dx).
Best,
Adam
P.S. Anyone use this for run and gun wedding shots or engagements?
Haha... Just found my answer two posts down. Sorry didn't see that.
For anyone else that wants to know. It seems that you cannot shoot 1.4 ISO 200 shutter speed 4000th without having to move your light really far back. Which means, you'll need a huge modifier if you expect to get soft light hitting your subject.
I have tons of modifiers.. I'll have to run some proper tests one semi-sunny day this coming week. Luckily I only use HSS once a year!
Adam, I used the B1 in many events with a gridded Mola Demi held by my assistant and it was a joy to use. For extra portability I use t with the Zoom Reflector II, it's very very light. Lowering the power output with HSS has been a known issue but there are work arounds.
As for triggers, you can use the Profoto Air Remote with any camera but I don't think it can control lights other than the B1. Another thing that got me confused at first is that the TTL remote does not control light output when it's in TTL mode, it only controls ratios. You can control global light output via exposure comp in your camera. However, you can control the output from the TTL remote when it's in manual mode.
Hi hijazist, care to elaborate on "TTL remote does not control light output when it's in TTL mode, it only controls ratios"
What I've been doing (just tested in for about 30 minutes) is set the remote to TTL and then adjust the flash exposure on the camera because say it's to bright because a black wall is tricking it. So I'd adjust -1 to -2 stops on the 5D3 itself. Even though I was under the impression that you could do it on the remote as well.
I seem to be getting good results. The only issue is that when I put my subject against a white wall, they needed +1 exposure comp on the camera. And then when I put my subject in a black shirt and did a tight shot, it over exposed by around 1 stop, so I had to do -1 on the camera.
Thinking that maybe the 1Dx w/multi-spot metering might be better for this?!
Also, Pocketwizards won't work to trigger the flash only? I thought that profoto and PW were tight?!
The Profoto Air Remote is $$.. I want a cheap trigger for manual mode (adjustments done on the light itself).
I really have no idea about the 1DX metering since I am using Nikon.
When in TTL mode, the remote only adjusts light ratios between different B1s (not exposure but ratios), if you have only one B1 then your only method of adjusting exposure is via your camera's flash compensation. In manual mode, however, the remote acts like flash compensation so there's no problem there.
In regards to exposure, this text was taken from the Profoto blog from one of representatives:
The energy setting is directly connected to the power output of the flash. Shooting in HSS Mode means that the flash fires before the shutter is open and stops firing after it is closed. Hence, not all light hits the camera sensor, which means you will need to set the flash to a higher setting to achieve the same results. The light lost depends on the slitters sizes and shapes and it is different between camera models.
Just select the power you want and shoot, or use it together with TTL. The additional light needed depends on many different variables and one of them is of cause the shutter speed.
This is a very rough approximation that I received from our Service Deparment:
Deezie wrote:
Pocket wizards work, but only in manual mode.
Yes, as long as you have a PW receiver connected with a sync cable to the B1. The internal B1 receiver only works with Profoto Air Remote (unlike, say, the receiver in Profoto Compact-R's).
Are you using B1's only? If you are using other lights alongside your B1's, I assume you could trigger those other lights with whatever remote you have, and let your B1's be triggered via optical slave mode. Alternatively, you can buy cheaper radio triggers. I have Profoto TTL-N air remote but sometimes use Pixel King remote when I use more than the B1's. Finally, B1's in Slave mode can also be triggered with normal IR signals. I have triggered our B1 with our Nikon SU-800, as well as the pop-up flash in our Nikon D800E.
Who wants messy cords now that Profoto has spoiled me!
(I actually had so many bad problems with Profoto in the past, I'm surprised I bought this unit, but the no cords thing was a big win).
Anyway, thanks for the info, I guess I'm stuck buying the AIR trigger.. Hopefully it works with the Leica, so I can at least trigger the flashes.
hmmm unless there's a REALLY tiny option that plugs directly into the sync socket with no cord that then attaches to the receiver. Something small but decent.
I think the ttl air remote is very confusing. I wish there was a way to change the programming of it so that we can just tweak each channel of light output instead of it controlling ratios.
I also wish there was a way to just have the air remote display the power of each light, not this +- stuff.
In the studio, I have used a Wein optical trigger to trigger the B1. It's not a "standard" but I have used it. Mostly with my X100T and its leaf shutter cause it's faster than radio and can sync at higher speeds. I typically use the Air Remote in studio depending on the camera and the shoot with a flashes optical slave. In studio I have 2 D1's, a 600r, an Einstein and 3 B1's. The Einstein is married to a PW, it stays attached to a large Rime Lite 79" or 81" (I forget the size) Grand Octa box, it's more or less bolted to the speed ring which supports it. The 600r is used with a Mola BD or Elinchrom deep octa because I just like it. I don't mind the cord to the head and love no AC needed. The D1's and B1's fill in wherever. I don't always use the a Einstein or the 600r but when I do I often just use a PW on camera and optical slave the other lights to it. It's easier. But I do use the Air Remote when the D1's or B1's are up high, or if those are all I'm using. On location I use the B1's and Air Remote TTL-N about 99% of the time. In either manual mode or TTL mode - I have always been a manual user but I have to admit the TTL works great and I have been using it a lot. I often use a Nikon speedlight here and there too with my B1's.
I shoot with Nikons and Fuji X systems interchangeably except for TTL obviously. I rented a 645z recently and it worked fine with my PW and regular Air Remote setup. Hey, my setup is probably goofy to some but it works. I also use Buff VLX and VML units to the D1's in the studio at times. Just so I can move things around quick and try new things while shooting. I rent my place out from time to time and the renters only get the PW's to trigger with. It was a nightmare letting them use the Air Remote the only time I tried it.
