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 p.1 #16 · Best Macro lens on the a7(r) | |
freaklikeme wrote:
Depends on your budget, really, and what you want to use the lens for after you've shot your friend's figurines.
If you want a cheap macro that will go native 1:1 and don't care if the lens is good at other distances or about the corners close-up, the I'd say the Vivitar 50/2.8 Macro is good bargain. You can get life-size Lego people without any tubes. The downside to short macros is working distance- the shorter your focal length the less working distance you'll have close up. It's not a great lens for infinity work, though, so don't plan to multi-task with the lens.
If you're looking to invest more for better quality, it's tough to beat the C/Y Zeiss S-Plannar 60/2.8. Again, native 1:1, much better corners, and better performance at longer distances than the Vivitar. It's my tag-along macro for the field and it hasn't let me down yet. The Leica 60/2.8 is as good with slightly better colors, IMO, but it's native 1:2, so you'll need a tube to get to life-size. They run about the same for like-condition copies, so I'd say the Zeiss is the better buy. Again, it's a bit short on working distance
For a longer focal length and working distance in a helicoid mount, I'd look at the C/Y Zeiss Makro-Pannar 100/2.8. Native 1:1 performance and barely discernible IQ difference between it, the new MP 100/2, and the Leica-R APO-Macro-Elmarit 100/2.8 as far as sharpness throughout the focusing range, and significantly less expensive than either of the others. And, IMO, the best bargain in the Contax line.
Bellows are a good way to go and there are a few (Contax, Minolta Auto-bellows III, and Mamiya Auto-Bellows N) that allow for tilt and shift movement and the glass possibilities open up to any lens that can be adapted to the chosen mount. If they don't make adapters for the lens you want to use, you can try the trick Jim C pointed out in another thread- take a body cap for the specified mount and drill it out then epoxy on an adapter. Bellows present their own unique set of challenges in getting rid of the reflections and glare, something the a7(r) makes no easier, but it's very rewarding. I use mine with a couple of 135mm heads and enlarging lenses (Rodenstock and Nikkor) that were all relatively inexpensive.
My last suggestion would be a Canon FD 35/2.8 TS. With a .3M MFD, it's not exactly a macro lens, but it can make for some interesting perspectives and is a great multi-tasker for someone who isn't necessarily looking for a dedicated macro. Just one to consider.
Hope that helps....Show more →
Thanks so much for the help! I greatly appreciate yours and everyone else's advice. I'm going to be looking at some samples and copies this weekend on the B&S forums as well as eBay and other places.
Honestly I've never looked at Leica R glass, I always thought leica glass was out of my reach (and some are like the 50 f/0.95) and I never knew how reasonably priced the R glass is. I could see building up some nice R glass to add to my collection. I'll have to do some homework on it (like what CAM-2, 3 means and what 6-bit means). But I'm thinking instead of adding a bunch of cheap Olympus and Minolta Rokkor glass to just add to the shelf, I would be better off investing in some Leica R glass to fill the holes in the native FE mount (such as the 21, 90, etc). Getting cheap glass might make me buy unnecessary lenses to just pile up but getting quality glass might mean adding a lens here and there to help supplement my shooting.
Anything in particular I need to know about leica r glass?
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