So I bought the RF-603N3 and found I still had to do the modification to get the trigger to work. It sounds like people had more luck with the 602's working straight out of the box. I was also only able to get a sync speed of 1/160 with them using the wireless trigger mode. If I switched to optical trigger then I could get 1/200 triggering them from the HVL-F43M. One thing to note if you are trying to fire the HVL-F43M or any multi-interface flash from one of these units (or the cactus v5 which I also tried) you will have to file down the lip in the front of the hot shoe on the receiver. If you don't do this then the pins won't line up and it won't trigger correctly.
Padraic wrote:
So I bought the RF-603N3 and found I still had to do the modification to get the trigger to work. It sounds like people had more luck with the 602's working straight out of the box. I was also only able to get a sync speed of 1/160 with them using the wireless trigger mode. If I switched to optical trigger then I could get 1/200 triggering them from the HVL-F43M. One thing to note if you are trying to fire the HVL-F43M or any multi-interface flash from one of these units (or the cactus v5 which I also tried) you will have to file down the lip in the front of the hot shoe on the receiver. If you don't do this then the pins won't line up and it won't trigger correctly....Show more →
I guess you are talking about the 120ohm resistor mod, right? My 603N also do not work.
yeah the 120k resistor mod. On firing a MI flash from the units I did verify that if you file down the plastic hump on the receiver the flash until the center pin can make contact then the flash will fire correctly. I did a messy job of it but I'm sure you could do the job with a dremel in no time at all.
prashant wrote:
Hmm. I got the triggers doing what they are supposed to do however can not fire flash. Do I need an adapter on A7?
Could you describe the setup you are trying to use? Also when you say "doing what they are supposed to do" do you mean that both are showing two green indicators, and pressing the button on the transmitter causes the receiver to blink red?
Padraic wrote:
Could you describe the setup you are trying to use? Also when you say "doing what they are supposed to do" do you mean that both are showing two green indicators, and pressing the button on the transmitter causes the receiver to blink red?
No, both are green however pressing button on transmitter does not cause receiver to blink red. I guess mine is 603N version and not Nii which should do this?
prashant wrote:
No, both are green however pressing button on transmitter does not cause receiver to blink red. I guess mine is 603N version and not Nii which should do this?
I can't speak with 100% certainty about the 603N (non II version) but here is how it should work. The modules have the extra pins on them which are meant to read the auto-wakeup of the nikon camera, once it detects that pin, and 5v across it, then the module goes into transmitter mode. In this mode both lights on the transmitter become illuminated green and pressing the shutter causes one of them to flash red, indicating that it would have triggered either the 560III or the other 603N.
Obviously we don't have that pin so there is a modification which fools the module into always being in transmitter mode (once again both lights on the single module being on). This requires soldering a 120k ohm resister between the battery terminal and the wire that was connected to that auto-wakeup pin. Once you do this, when you turn on the modified module it will automatically be in transmitter mode. Then when you turn on either the 560III flashes or the receiver (unmodified) they should indicate that they found a transmitter. On the flash the indicator light in the lower left corner will turn blue and on the receiver both lights will illuminate green. At this point you can test fire them by pressing the button on the modified transmitter and it should trigger the flash and make the second light on the receiver blink.
Have you modified one of the modules to be a transmitter?
prashant wrote:
Hi Padraic,
This is exactly what happens. Except the flash is not fired.
Well that means we are off to a good start! What type of flash do you have mounted on the receiver? I found that if you are mounting one of the Multi-Interface flashes on the receiver you may have to cut away some of the plastic in front of the hot shoe on the receiver in order for the center pin to line up. Prior to doing this my HVL-F43M would not fire but just yesterday I did the modification and now it fires perfectly.
prashant wrote:
Padraic,
Got the Nii version and it works without any changes whatsoever, right out of the box.
ah must be the 602-N2. What flash do you have though? If you are trying to trigger the 560III then you have to go into the menu and set it to 602 and not 603, if you are trying to trigger one of the sony multi-interface flashes then you need to modify the receiver so the center pins line up.
A2rob,
Not quite sure what you are doing. Why are you using the ODIN transmitter with the Godox? Is it just for synch speed? The Odin will not do TTL with the Godox?
jmmaher wrote:
A2rob,
Not quite sure what you are doing. Why are you using the ODIN transmitter with the Godox? Is it just for synch speed? The Odin will not do TTL with the Godox?
Jim
I was experimenting to see if I could trigger all of my 180/360 with the Odin TX/RX. And just so happen I turned on the HSS on the TX and placed the flash in hss mode and was able to synch with no lies all the way to 1/8000.
I had read in several forums that the Yongnuo RF-603C II would work with the Sony A7 so I purchased a set of them. I can't get them to work with my A7R. They work with my Canon 30D. I've set the one on the Sony camera to TX and TXR and no luck. My flash is an old manual only flash but it will fire if directly mounted on the Sony. I even ordered a second set incase the first was bad. As a side note I was under the impression that the transmitter should fire a test flash if in TX and the button is fully pressed, but it doesn't.
If a fully manual flash is acceptable, I'd recommend the Godox Ving V850 (also sold as Neewer in the States, if I'm not mistaken). Flash output can be set on the transmitter (FT-16S), so no need to walk back and forth to the flash when establishing which output is needed. As a bonus, the flash is powered by a single Li-ion battery, which has the capacity of 12 AA-batteries and recycles really fast. It works effortlessly on my A7R, just plug and play.
thank you everyone for all your contributions to this subject. I have wanted one of these sony a7 cameras for a long time but have been worried that it could not replace my canon 6D as a production camera for portraits studio and location as well as weddings and this radio slave flash connections have been of high priority for me. Well I finally pulled the trigger and grabbed an A7 and it just arrived about 30 minutes ago. Yes in that short time I know this is everything I wanted it to be and the third thing I tested (1st being the overall camera and 2nd being a FOTGA EF to FE smart adapter from amazon for $63 yes it works as expected slow but dead on) 3rd was the flash sync with my Yongnuo YN622C-TX and the YN622C with EX430II and EX580II. It completely works....
Sync speed up to 200 (250 shutter line) I can control the flash output and zooms from the TX. No HSS of coarse and I loose the extra 3rd stop or shutter sync but my 6D only syncs at 160th outside of HSS.
I will continue to actually test my location set up with this config but I have a feeling it will work until there is an HSS solution from me to switch out the canons speedlites for sony's. I will keep you all posted. I'm very excited.
thanks
