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Archive 2013 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?

  
 
rffffffff
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p.2 #1 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


I think what's written above is pretty much on target... I personally have tried printing myself only a few times and have had the results end up mediocre at best without a profile...

What I would recommend is calibrating your screen, (i1 display pro is what I have, I would look into colormunki because its cheap and almost the same) and then downloading a printer profile from a pro lab, and then printing at that lab. I use whcc and you can download profiles from them then see how the prints match... I assume you can download a profile from mpix as well. (I used to use millers, the parent company, and they are great too.)

Once you have good, closely matching output from a lab, then I would work towards finding a printer profile for what you are using. (At least you will know half of your setup is right.)

Assuming you are looking at the lab print in decent, non color cast light (daylight is probably best), and comparing to the image viewed through the soft proofing printer profile from the lab, it should be relatively easy to achieve very good results pretty quickly.

Finding a printer profile for your device with your paper and your ink is going to be a bit harder, I would imagine, and as I use labs exclusively, I am not the best person to help figure that out... Google is your friend. there used to be a service, which I assume still exists, that would give you a file to print, then you would mail the print to them, they would generate a profile for you and email it back, but I don't recall who that was.

On the other hand, once you find a good printer profile, if you have not calibrated your monitor, the printer profile is basically worthless, because your starting point is essentially random.

I think that's a decent rundown of the process, at least, I hope it makes sense. I wish I knew more about printer profiles, and the myriad of print settings, but one day I tossed my epson 820 in the trash and and have never looked back. I couldn't be happier to never have an inkjet in my life since! (although I just reluctantly bought an HP all in one that will never print a photograph!)



Okay, now you have my attention. Would you please explain how calibrating my monitor will aid me in getting my printed output to match my screen. FWIW, I have an iMac and an HP Photosmart 3210 printer. Also, which $200 calibration tool do you recommend?
Jack





May 07, 2013 at 01:34 AM
jforkner
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p.2 #2 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Okay, now I have my monitor calibrated. How do I get my printer profiled to match?

In the past, I've printed an image, held it next to the screen, and tried to determine the differences. Then I made adjustments to the printer settings (e.g., Color Handling, Printer Profile [those included with PS], Rendering Intent, Black Point Comp., etc.). I'd print again, and follow the same steps to try and get a match. When that didn't work, I tried changing the Proof Setup in an attempt to make the screen image match the print. Still off. A ream of paper later, I'm not much further ahead.

Oh, I get close; but the print always is too dark or has too much saturation or something else. Same with sending a file out to a lab---often close; never right on.

If it's simply a trial-and-error-thing, I don't understand how having a calibrated monitor made it any easier.


Jack





May 07, 2013 at 09:06 AM
Peter Figen
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p.2 #3 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Jack - How did you calibrate? With which device? To what standard - color temp, white luminance, black luminance, gamma, etc? How is the ambient lighting in your edit room?

Assuming you've done a good calibration, and I can only assume at this point, as has been pointed out, that's only part of the equation. You then need a good (really great) quality output profile that is custom for the printer you're using. Then you need to have a controlled lighting viewing environment to judge your print by. This means either a light booth light something by Just Normlicht or, more affordably, one of the daylight balanced tungsten solutions on the market.

Your method of holding a print to your monitor is not correct. Having enough light in your edit room to actually judge a print by would likely put too much light on your screen itself and skew your judgment of that. Typically, you would have a print viewing station set off to the side of the monitor that is lit separately and you'd have your room lighting subdued so that the two brightest things in the room are your screen and your lighted print for viewing. Forcing you to look away to see your print and then back to see the monitor is actually a better way to compare than putting the two directly side by side. It helps to compensate for the unavoidable differences between transmitted and reflected images.

But more importantly, your methodology is more akin to how traditional darkroom prints were made - by trial and error. You don't do that anymore. All of that is now up front and done before you actually send a print to the printer. THAT's why you calibration and viewing conditions are so important. When you have everything in order, there is extremely little of that archaic trial and error way of printing. When I print, and it's usually to my Epson 9900, the first print is the last print in about 95 percent of the prints. Subsequent prints are generally for content, not color. The screen to print match really is that good.



May 07, 2013 at 10:03 AM
aubsxc
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p.2 #4 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Peter Figen explained the basic concepts very nicely in an earlier post. I suggest you go back and read his post again, and then spend some time reading up on color management using online resources like the following:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/color-management-printing.htm

In a nutshell, every device you use has a unique color space (a numerical definition of how colors are mapped within a three dimensional space defined using combinations of red, green and blue colors for an RGB system). The goal of color management is to define the color space of every device you use so you can accurately and consistently translate color data from one space to another while working within a standard color space.

Calibrating a monitor sets it a standard state with known color temperature, gamma, white and black levels. Profiling a device numerically defines (a) how colors are reproduced by that device, and (b) the range of colors that can be reproduced by the device (this is called the gamut).

When you work in Photoshop/LR, your work is done inside a STANDARD color space (like Adobe RGB, ProPhoto RGB etc). In order to accurately display the colors in an image (capture from camera/scanner or a document you create using software like Paint) on your monitor, the software has to know the color space of the monitor so it can translate the data in your image from the STANDARD color space to the monitor's color space. The STANDARD color spaces we use are typically much larger than your monitors color space, and if some colors present in your image exceed the gamut of your monitor, they will be displayed using the instructions you give the software via the Rendering Intent function you select.

Similarly, when we profile a printer using a specific set of inks and a specific paper, we define the color space of that combination, so Photoshop can translate the image data from the STANDARD color space to the printers color space. As with the monitor, some colors in your image may exceed the printer's gamut, in which you compromise by instructing the software to render out of gamut colors using the rendering intent you select.

Paper manufacturers usually provide profiles for their paper customized for commonly used printers. You can use these profiles as a starting point. If you are not happy with the generic profiles, you can create custom profiles for your printer and specific papers using hardware and software. When you have profiled your monitor and printer, you can use the soft proofing function in the software to visualize what your print will look like on your monitor. For printing your work, you basically have three options

Option 1: Create your own profiles using photospectrometers and associated software like Colormunki Design. Your initial investment is high because you could spend anywhere from about $400 to $3000 or more to buy the system. However, if you work with several printers and many paper types, you can do all the work yourself with complete control over the process while saving money in the long run.

Option 2: Use a mail-in service to get your paper/ink/printer combinations profiled. You download color targets from the vendors website, print them using those the combinations you want to profile, mail the prints to the vendor, and then electronically download the profiles after a few days. Less expensive if you only use a limited number of printer/ink/paper combinations, and someone else does all the work.

Option 3: Use a printing service. Download the color profiles for the specific printer/paper combinations from the vendor's website, use the profile(s) to soft proof your images, upload your image file to the vendors website, and wait for your prints to be delivered.

Obviously, there are many factors that affect how your prints end up looking. Again, if you spend some time educating yourself on the color management process, you will reap the benefits in the long run.



May 07, 2013 at 10:39 AM
skibum5
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p.2 #5 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


jforkner wrote:
Okay, now I have my monitor calibrated. How do I get my printer profiled to match?

In the past, I've printed an image, held it next to the screen, and tried to determine the differences. Then I made adjustments to the printer settings (e.g., Color Handling, Printer Profile [those included with PS], Rendering Intent, Black Point Comp., etc.). I'd print again, and follow the same steps to try and get a match. When that didn't work, I tried changing the Proof Setup in an attempt to make the screen image match the print. Still off. A ream of paper later, I'm
...Show more


Hopefully the printer maker will have profiles. For lower end printers they might not have much. Paper makers may offer profiles for popular printers. If that is all nogo then you can sometimes find free ones on the net and if that doesn't work some places on the net sell profiles for all sorts of printers+papers. You could also rent a probe that can make profiles and do it yourself (i1 pro and such probes and software are very expensive). I think some places let you print out certain patterns on your printer on your paper of choice and you can send them in and they can make a profile for you if worst comes to worst.

And as also mentioned if you send stuff away to print you'd have no way to adjust how their printer works so if your monitor is off you'll ahve no clue what will come back.

I should also note that since printers often have rather different gamuts than monitors and have much less dynamic range that it can be helpful to go into proof mode and fiddle a bit with saturation and contrast since what is best for screen doesn't always translate as best at print (often you want to make sure that the darkest tone in the on screen image is moved down to zero if it is not already there and the brightest up to 255 white if it is not already there since printers have low DR) at the absolute least (although in some cases you don't want to do that if you need a moody feel to the image to be retained.



May 07, 2013 at 12:45 PM
jforkner
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p.2 #6 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Thanks all for the time you've spent educating me. I've got a bit to digest now.

As I referenced above, my HP printer is not a high-end device. As such, I've not found any printer profiles for it other than those included in PS.

Thanks again.


Jack



May 07, 2013 at 03:19 PM
tived
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p.2 #7 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


leighton w wrote:
I know monitor calibration is necessary if you do your own printing. But is it necessary if all you ever do is post images on line? Are others seeing faulty colors on their computers because your monitor isn't calibrated?



Hi Leighton,

Its always good to have a standard to following in particular if you are sharing your images with others, to ensure everyone is seeing what you are wanting them to see.

The only area when I don't see a need to calibrate is if you are producing images and printing them yourself - and what you get out of your printer matches what you see on your screen. (eg. A closed loop system)

However, as soon as you are sending images to the outside world and expect the colors to be accepted and viewed as you see them. You will need some sort of standard, for your viewer to enjoy your creations...otherwise your beautiful artwork will go wasted.

All the best

Henrik



May 08, 2013 at 01:57 AM
tived
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p.2 #8 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


jforkner wrote:
Thanks all for the time you've spent educating me. I've got a bit to digest now.

As I referenced above, my HP printer is not a high-end device. As such, I've not found any printer profiles for it other than those included in PS.

Thanks again.

Jack


Jack, the profiles are usually based on the paper you are using, and they paper supplier will also have done profiles for your printer and ink combination, provided that you use a quality paper and it is considered a photo printer

all the best

Henrik

PS: It might pay off to read up about color management



May 08, 2013 at 01:59 AM
leighton w
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p.2 #9 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Thanks Henrik, and thanks to everyone for a very interesting conversation. Y'all have talked me into ordering the Spyder Pro4!


May 08, 2013 at 05:29 AM
leighton w
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p.2 #10 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Just an update:

I got my Spyder 4 Pro today and calibrated my monitor. All I can say is that I wished I had done it a long time ago. What a huge difference, at least for me. I keep cutting it off and on to see the difference with everything.

Thanks again for all the input!



May 10, 2013 at 02:38 PM
Camperjim
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p.2 #11 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


It seems to my eyes that modern flat screen monitors are pretty accurate with regard to color. That certainly was not the case with the old CRT monitors. If you are really concerned about the accuracy of colors, there is a very important step that is almost always overlooked. Begin with a color test of your vision. A very high percentage of males have color impaired vision. Try this test: http://www.xrite.com/custom_page.aspx?PageID=77
You should have a score that is pretty close to zero, certainly well less than 10. If you score higher, forget about color calibration. You have impaired vision and can never match what those of us with good color vision can see. I often follow the landscape forum and quite often there are comments about white balance and the accuracy of colors. Many of those making the comments are clearly color impaired. Having a big, expensive and calibrated monitor will not compensate.



May 10, 2013 at 05:03 PM
jforkner
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p.2 #12 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


leighton w wrote:
Just an update:

I got my Spyder 4 Pro today and calibrated my monitor. All I can say is that I wished I had done it a long time ago. What a huge difference, at least for me. I keep cutting it off and on to see the difference with everything.

Thanks again for all the input!


Kinda curious...what exactly improved for you by having your monitor calibrated? I get that the colors of on-screen images probably look different; but in a practical sense, what's better or easier than before?

Thanks.


Jack



May 12, 2013 at 08:19 AM
Peter Figen
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p.2 #13 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


Jack,

What a good calibration will do is assure that you won't clip either the blacks or whites, and that you can distinguish all the tones in the scale as well as that monitor is capable of. A great monitor will be able to show you the differences between zero and one or two at the bottom end and 254 to 255 on the top end. Granted, there are only a couple of screens out there that can do that, but the closer you get to that, the better you'll be able to see what's really in your file. In addition, the calibration will attempt to provide true neutrality from black to white where R=G=B in the scale. Most monitors have a fair amount of color shift in the grays as you move from black to white. A good calibration will also set your white point to a number where it comes as close as possible to matching your paper white of your prints, making the screen to print match that much easier. It's better to have the monitor itself closer to the paper white than to depend entirely on the output profile to simulate. Finally, by measuring the range of colors that your monitor can produce during the calibration process, that process, when it builds the profile, now has the ability to "tell" color managed apps exactly how all the colors in your file should be displayed. Keep in mind that Photoshop will always use some sort of monitor profile to display your images through, regardless of if you have calibrated or not, so you really do want the it to be using the right one. It does make a difference and it also gives you the confidence of knowing that what you did is actually what you thought you did, color wise.

I'm really not sure why you seem so resistant to the process or doubt that it really works or if it's worth the effort. It really is. Even my laptops are calibrated and it makes a huge difference there as well.



May 12, 2013 at 02:40 PM
leighton w
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p.2 #14 · Monitor Calibration...necessary?


leighton w wrote:
Just an update:

I got my Spyder 4 Pro today and calibrated my monitor. All I can say is that I wished I had done it a long time ago. What a huge difference, at least for me. I keep cutting it off and on to see the difference with everything.

Thanks again for all the input!

jforkner wrote:
Kinda curious...what exactly improved for you by having your monitor calibrated? I get that the colors of on-screen images probably look different; but in a practical sense, what's better or easier than before?

Thanks.
Jack

Jack, one thing I noticed is that my images are easier to process. By that I mean I was always having to add contrast, now not so much. I also had a blueish color cast that I never knew I had, and the overall contrast seems better. Better blacks and grays as well as whites. Hope this helps.

There's an option of turn the calibration on or off and I seem to be doing this quite a bit to see the difference. I'm sure this will stop soon though.



May 12, 2013 at 03:05 PM
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