Went out for the first time with my new 5d3 (upgraded from a 5d2) and exactly what I thought would happen happened. Soft OOF pics. The AF system is obviously much more complicated than its predecessor. Is there any optimal settings for hockey that I should know about his thing? Only as far as AF is concerned that is. I used AI Servo, tried a few of the pre-set modes and what I got was 80% rubbish. Any help would be appreciated.
haha I have focal, I will try it tomorrow but I dont thing thats the problem. I took a shot of a brick wall at f2.8 at 12800 iso and its tack sharp, with same lens at 1/40
I have a 1D X that I've been trying to dial in for ice hockey. I have used the 5d3 but not for hockey. I have been using Case 4 with AF Area set to AF Point Expansion (8 Point). My problem is trying to keep focus on the subject I want and not have it jump around. I'm using a 70-200mm f2.8 L and it focuses super fast...too fast in some cases where it was grabbing a subject in the background. Not sure that any of this addresses your posted picture. BTW...I have to shoot through the glass most of the time too!
If you haven't already read it...try downing loading the 1D X Focus Guide. It's on the Canon site under the 1D X.
Jeffrey wrote:
Seems like it's working fine for you What's the problem? Try using the 'H' setting. (j/k)
This was with 5d2, I cant get anything even close with same lens on 5d3 hence the problem
If you're shooting through glass then forget about ultimate sharpness, seriously. I shoot hockey a lot for my friend who plays on a college team, I always try to stand somewhere up in the stands or shoot from the bench where the players are so I'm not shooting through any glass at all. It absolutely will murder contrast and sharpness.
I use my 5d3 for all my hockey stuff, and have loved it. When the season started, though, I was using my 70-200 2.8 IS II and hated it. The focusing seemed very slow and inaccurate. Recently I have switched to my 70-200 f/4IS and I have loved it. Personal preference, I guess. Anyways, I have been using AI servo and case 4 with good results. I shoot from the penalty box instead of through the glass, which helps tremendously. I'll try to remember to post some shots later in the day, when I get a chance. I have been shooting f/4, 1/1000, ISO 10,000 with good luck.
"If you're shooting through glass then forget about ultimate sharpness, seriously. I shoot hockey a lot for my friend who plays on a college team, I always try to stand somewhere up in the stands or shoot from the bench where the players are so I'm not shooting through any glass at all. It absolutely will murder contrast and sharpness."
well if you read the thread I posted two photos, shot from the same location, with two different cameras. The 4 yr old 5d2 is sharp, the 5d3 is not. I was asking for help with setting if somebody shoots hockey with this camera, you are telling me there is no way to get a sharp shot through the glass?
Iso 10000? Wow, I would definetly like to see those! I usually shoot 1/640 iso4000 f2.8. I can shoot from the players box but like the closeness the glass offers. I will try Case 4 next time.
Bjamieson wrote:
I use my 5d3 for all my hockey stuff, and have loved it. When the season started, though, I was using my 70-200 2.8 IS II and hated it. The focusing seemed very slow and inaccurate. Recently I have switched to my 70-200 f/4IS and I have loved it. Personal preference, I guess. Anyways, I have been using AI servo and case 4 with good results. I shoot from the penalty box instead of through the glass, which helps tremendously. I'll try to remember to post some shots later in the day, when I get a chance. I have been shooting f/4, 1/1000, ISO 10,000 with good luck....Show more →
Will is correct though. Whenever you shoot through the glass you are going through 1/2" or more of non-photographic glass/acrylic that has any number of smudges and puck marks on it. Not to mention background reflections as well. It's going to affect AF sometimes and you are not going to get "ultimate" sharpness. You're hoping for acceptable sharpness that will look good in whatever output medium your photos will be used in. It's a tradeoff for getting ice level access.
I've been using case 4 for hockey with 4 point expansion. I've found I had better results setting the tracking sensitivity to -1 or -2.
