p.2 #1 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
sritri wrote:
The filter are B+W's and I have never removed it from the day I have got the lens. 300/500 came back with a clean chit a few months ago.
I have never had a UV or 'protectant' filter on my three most expensive lenses and they look pristine, when cleaned. I don't clean them often other than dusting with a blower brush, and I do know how to clean lenses. I have two Canon EF lenses over 20 years old and I have cleaned them a number of times, but again not too often. They look pristine too.
There is a very specific way to clean lenses. Study it. Learn it. Master it. Put away the 'protectant filter'. If you know what you are doing and why, you can (very carefully) clean a lens in the field with an ordinary clean cotton t-shirt. I have. Note: you don't just start wiping the lens right off the bat.
'Protectant' filters should be reserved for riots involving liquids (drunks). Learn how to clean lenses. It is just as important a technique as mirror lockup with cable release. (You are using a cable release?) Don't clean lenses too often (other than dusting).
Use lens hoods to protect lenses. It is especially effective at keeping finger smudges off lenses.
One of the problems with filters, even expensive ones, is that the coatings tend to be less hard than lens coatings. The latter are harder than most people expect.
The very best protectant filter is the opaque black kind. Use them.
p.2 #2 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
A few points.
First, when using the 300/4 IS on a tripod, you should not be using IS. The 300/4 and 100-400 have the same early generation IS system that needs to be turned off when used on a tripod. And, of the first group of shots that you posted, I'd be more concerned about the image quality of those take with the 300 than I would be about the one taken with the 500.
Further, I would not be comfortable shooting at the shutter speeds that show up in your file information. While newer cameras with more pixels should give us the opportunity to crop to a greater extent, any cropping that you do is going to magnify any imperfections, including those caused by camera shake and even minor subject movement. When I was using 8 and 10 MP cameras, they didn't give me the opportunity to do steeper cropping. When I am now using 16 and 18 MP cameras, I can do deeper cropping, but, if I want to be able to do so and maintain sharp, detailed images, I need to use shutter speeds that are significantly faster than what I would have used with those 8 and 10 MP cameras.
Also, the light in all of the pictures that you posted does not provide the best conditions for judging image quality. Regardless of what you do, pictures that are taken without good light directly hitting the subject are not likely to show detail that pops out at you like they would if you were shooting with good light directly hitting the subject.
Finally, I agree with another comment about the exposure of the JP shot (and the goldfinch shot) not being what it should have been.
p.2 #4 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
sritri wrote:
Almost all of the SHC's have a +1 EC
Yes, that has lead to overexposure of at least one stop. Looking at that scene, I'd say that bird plumage has a similar luminance to the surrounding reeds, perhaps even a bit more. That means if you shot in the Av mode, center weighed metering, zero EC, you would have been in the ballpark with the bird exposure.
p.2 #5 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Hi Sritri,
I've used Canon's software but stopped long ago and switched to Adobe's Lightroom; started in beta before v1 and now use v3.6, I've not upgraded to v4x.x yet; and I mostly use default settings (I'm still experimenting, just exploring LR's options.) my workflow is quite simple...I'm not a PS user yet.
I shoot RAW+Jpeg fine (40D/50D) for everything and review all SOOC Jpegs, sifting through the images and delete anything that is blurry, when I'm shooting for sharp images; RAW conversion is only preformed on keepers.
I like abstract images and quite often keep a notebook and pen with me and take notes when I deliberately play with use out-of-focus or motion blur to create an odd image.
A suggestion, you may have tried already, but if you want to try the 300's IS feature handheld, given you have a solid surface to shoot from. Put a large pillow or two on the counter top, lean into the counter top and put both elbows in the pillow(s); make your body into a tripod.
I do this while in my wheelchair, by putting a 5" piece of firm foam on my lapdesk/try that fits across my chair arms. It makes for a fairly solid support when there is very good light. I use IS quite successfully using this method, otherwise when light is not optimal I use a support clamped to my chair frame; a ball head is used with this option and IS is always off; mirror locked up and a shutter release...and do my best to sit very still.
Additionally, correct breathing technique even with short telephotos is important as well; it's not just for the super tele shooters
As Peter and others suggest, try shooting at 1/500th or above as it helps greatly. I've handheld below 1/500th with some success but is pretty hit-n-miss and rare that I get anything sharp.
Jerry
PS. I forgot one thing, if I'm shooting with IS off; on a support, and notice my images are not sharp, I check shutter speed 1st, if it's ok, then it's either my technique or my equipment has an issue, it's mostly my technique. Guess I've been lucky gears wise, I've only sent one lens in for a checkup in 34yrs...
Here's one of my motion blur experiments from my film days, EOS-3, 100 f2.8 macro, Fuji Velvia, lowres scan from a Plustek 7600. It's a Bird of Paradise flower, I was trying to make it dance, It's the best of 36 shots...sure glad we have digital these days, this was expensive back in the day!
p.2 #6 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
With my 5D, I used to shoot up to ISO 400 without worrying about image quality.
With my 5D2, I shoot up to ISO 800 without worrying about image quality (but usually limit it to the 160-320-640 series). With proper exposure, ISO 1250 is very doable.
With a 5D3, I can't imagine hesitating over image quality at any ISO 1600 or under.
ISO 100 is counter-productive for your subject matter.
p.2 #7 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Monito wrote:
ISO 100 is counter-productive for your subject matter.
Absolutely true.
A major benefit IMO of the current generation cameras is their high ISO capability.
Those cameras allow us shoot with more than adequate ( and low risk) camera settings. Today we have more freedom than ever to select ample shutter speed and sufficient DoF for the target/scene photographed.
p.2 #8 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
StillFingerz wrote:
Here's one of my motion blur experiments from my film days, EOS-3, 100 f2.8 macro, Fuji Velvia, lowres scan from a Plustek 7600. It's a Bird of Paradise flower, I was trying to make it dance, It's the best of 36 shots...sure glad we have digital these days, this was expensive back in the day!
Jerry, that's very creative and visually quite a stunt.
p.2 #9 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Peter, rock & roll 60s hippie type but have some refinement; my beautiful french much better half may have influenced me slightly
We enjoy the ballet, modern dance and classical concerts as well as a good Rush concert. Some years back; 10/15+ if I remember correctly, we got to see Baryshnikov's ballet troupe preform at our local OC Performing Arts Center.
He did this amazing solo sequence of jumps across the stage in an arch; front left, back front right, the entire length of the stage. I've never seen such physical control. His precision was stunning and he did this mid air turn that seemed to be slow motion, landing on toe and flat foot like a feather. Once is full flight, then a perfectly stuck landing like you see done in Olympic gymnastics.
That mid air turn, spin, was my inspiration of the above shot. I set a 1 second shutter speed, stopped down to f8, extended my arms and moved the camera from left, back to chest, extending out to my right in a halfish flat arch...got lucky me thinks
p.2 #10 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
sritri wrote:
Thanks Monito & Jerry.
I am not shooting through a window or glass. I have a walkout patio when the feeders are. I sit inside in the kitchen and shoot. I have 75lbs rated ball head screwed onto the kitchen island so that the support is rock solid. I will try tomorrow with the IS turned off and lens filters removed.
This is definitely true Monito And I can't put a finger on where. I open the file ACR which has all defaults turned to zero in 16 bit/326 ppi. Straighten and open in CS5. Crop and reduce by 67% using Bi-cubic. Apply USM 35/0.2/1. Nik Define at defaults. Use levels with Black and white dropper. Add frame and then USM again with 35/0.5/1. Save to Web in 80% quality. ...Show more →
I bet is it 75% using IS with a 300 f/4 IS on a heavy tripod and 25% shooting indoors to out, when I do that once it starts getting a little colder, especially, I can get all sorts of weird stuff a lot of the time.
p.2 #13 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
PetKal wrote:
Absolutely true.
A major benefit IMO of the current generation cameras is their high ISO capability.
Those cameras allow us shoot with more than adequate ( and low risk) camera settings. Today we have more freedom than ever to select ample shutter speed and sufficient DoF for the target/scene photographed.
This is my hope, what I look most foreword to as I move to FF, the high ISO of today's sensors. whether it's a 6D, 5D3, being able to shoot at higher shutter speeds is a huge bonus for my shakiness; plus my zooms are all f4 and above, no 2.8s...2013 should be fun!
p.2 #14 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Thanks everyone for the help. Really really appreciate it. I will try to take some in the morning with the techniques listed above. I have been following most of those and have not had a problem with my earlier bodies. With just under 600 frames on the 5M3 my lack of skills are showing up
I usually have my iPad with every kind of PDF on it and have read it multiple times. The reason I 'always' use IS is because I spoke to a Canon tech a long while ago and his advise was to leave IS on to mitigate shake due to mirror slap, which kind of made sense to me.
The ISO is I guess the Auto ISO of the camera and not selected by me. I have missed to pay attention.
The UV's are one of the best and I have done several controlled vs outside shooting with and without the UV's. The result consistently was there was ever so slight difference for my conclusion.
I have Arash's (Speedmaster20d) DPP RAW pdf workflow tips. I have not had time to look into it. I will do in the morning
p.2 #15 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Shoot Manual mode whenever possible. Static setup on one's own deck is an excellent place to practice Manual mode and get used to it and begin to live it and breath it.
p.2 #16 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Peter - I followed your tips and took a few shots while constantly defocussing and let the camera AF again. The result is a lot consistent and acceptable to my requirement
On the last I did the same setup like yesterday but instead of them birds I replaced with pop cans. The weird light affect is back
A touch front focussing I think on the 300/4 but I can and will live with it.
p.2 #17 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Shreeni, you've done a great test, and that looks good to me, if anything you might have a touch of frontfocusing there....you may wish to explore that a bit further on the same setup, or three battery cells shot from MFD.
The last pop can shot is different indeed....I believe the difference can be attributed to the direction of light. The best way to ensure good IQ is to have the dominant source of light behind your back (and the lens hood on as well). The last shot of popcans is almost fully backlit....that seldom gives good results on birds or popcans.
p.2 #18 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
sritri wrote:
On the last I did the same setup like yesterday but instead of them birds I replaced with pop cans.
Good you did tests. You don't say, but I assume you turned IS off. You are still at ISO 100. You don't say, but are you using mirror lockup / live view? Cable release? In any case, those photos are miles ahead of what you got with the Original Post.
sritri wrote:
The weird light affect is back
Nope. Those photos are much better. Crisper, clearer, vibrant, not muddy. Part is due to sunlight compared to what might have been cloudy bright for the OP photos, but all in all, much better. Make notes of all the factors you changed: capture technique, conversion settings, post-processing.
p.2 #19 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
I can't seem to force higher ISO
IS was switch off. I did not use ML or LV but I took a lot of time letting it rack focus again and again as I misfocused. The max ISO in Auto would go was around 400 but since the SS was already 1600 I let it be.
Of the 97 photos I took 1 was completely OOF. Not sure why but I won't lose sleep on it.
So the only thing I did unlike during use of my 7D and Mark 2 is to be more deliberate in pressing the shutter and have an eye on readouts in VF. I never used any other points to AF other than the center when using the 5M2 but now I can see that not only I am able to use any AF point but also can effectively use the AF Expansion.
In the 5M2 and to some extent 7D, AF point expansion means heartache
p.2 #20 · 5D Mark III files - What am I dong wrong ?
Don't use Auto anything, except perhaps focus. Set white balance to Auto White Balance because the Raws will have all the info to set any white balance you want in conversion (affects histogram, however).
Use Manual exposure mode. Set your ISO.
Read your camera instruction manual. From cover to cover. At least once. There is a custom function that affects Auto-ISO. Find it and see if it is a factor. Turn off Auto-ISO.
