I checked again, and I was wrong: it is possible to map Shoot mode to any of the buttons on the C3. I've now remapped it to the right button like Douglas.
The Custom menu is a great feature. It's strange that the Shoot mode is mapped into the C button by default, making the custom menu inaccessible.
People always tell me they like the sound of the shutter on the C3, but yeah, it's really loud.
My biggest gripe with the C3 is that I'm not sure how you change shutter and aperture in manual mode with just one dial. I haven't really looked into it yet though extensively.
Hell, I just discovered yesterday my NEX-7 has an extra button by the shutter they call the NAV button.
FlyPenFly wrote:
My biggest gripe with the C3 is that I'm not sure how you change shutter and aperture in manual mode with just one dial. I haven't really looked into it yet though extensively.
hit the exposure compensation button to toggle between shutter and and aperture control in manual mode.
FlyPenFly wrote:
Hell, I just discovered yesterday my NEX-7 has an extra button by the shutter they call the NAV button.
I have not really looked into other uses for that button but the greatest benefit I get from it is using it to lock settings. I have it set up to lock the rear control wheel so I don't accidentally change the ISO when shooting.
Strange how stubborn Sony has been in regards to the bracketing feature, which has been asked for since the original NEX5, and model after model comes with neither a f/w update or simply being included into the OS on a camera like the NEX7
Fuji is seemingly just as stubborn when it comes to the X100, which even though its gotten a number of updates, and addressed most of the user complaints regarding button programs,making AF box sizes and setting changes "sticky" etc, they too still only will allow the camera to bracket 3 shots at +/- 1 EV.
Such a contrast then when you pick up a Nikon DSLR and you can choose how many shots you want, how far apart etc. Heck, if I'm not mistaken, I think you can even tell it to just bracket 2 shots, so you can do one normal exposure and 1 under or over depending on your needs.
Other brands sort of "get it", though still not perfect. On my new EM-5 for example its great that you can bracket a wider range over 7 frames, but its fixed to 0.7 EV per frame. Why not give us not only the ability to chose the number of frames and also the range ?? Maybe I want 3 shots 2EV apart and don't need to bother with 7 frames. Still at least they somewhat recognize that the +/-1 EV isn't nearly enough.
Speaking of which, the fact that Sony does let you pick the range when using the HDR mode is sort of like salt on a wound. Shows that someone realizes we might want 6 stops of EV range but that persons control either ends there, or they think we all will be happy with the processed jpeg output it produces.
Its seems like such a simple firmware fix, and with HDR and simple exposure blending being such a popular way of working in this digital age, why some companies have such a refusal to seemingly fix this one little feature is beyond me.
FlyPenFly wrote:
I ruined a great (life personal) shot accidentally the other day because I had a bottle of wine, 2 martinis and I guess accidentally spun the great ISO wheel, I youtubed how to lock it the day after.
Consider yourself lucky if that's all that happened after downing all that!
a) I use a 5n and i usually shoot raw only. If i zoom into a image there is a chance of about 40% that all image detail is shown, but most often the fine details are washed out and critical sharpness can't be judged. I couldn't identify a pattern behind the phenomenon. If i shoot Raw+ Jpg it doesn't appear.
a) I use a 5n and i usually shoot raw only. If i zoom into a image there is a chance of about 40% that all image detail is shown, but most often the fine details are washed out and critical sharpness can't be judged. I couldn't identify a pattern behind the phenomenon. If i shoot Raw+ Jpg it doesn't appear.
Did anyone experience the same behavior ?
yes, if you shoot just raw the image you see in review is a low quality jpeg. if you shoot raw + jpeg you see whatever quality jpeg is saved to the memory card.
The shadows in those images are being pushed so much that whatever subtle issue there might be with the lens, sensor, etc. is going to be greatly magnified. Already, even where there is no pattern, the shadow noise is very noticeable at those reduced sizes. I'm guessing that's not base ISO. Is it 800 or 1600? Also what shutter speed? There was an issue previously mentioned about the electronic first curtain shutter so if that's also employed at longer shutter speeds, it may have something to do with the pattern as well. Try turning it off and see if it makes a difference.
My guess is automatic vignetting correction.. just guess tho. Saw something similar with NX from Samsung. Tho it shouldnt have any vignetting at f8. Bit puzzling..
Oddly enough, the polygonal shaped is similar to the aperture blades, could it be that the shadows are being pushed so much that very very subtle flare or internal reflection of the lens that normally isn't noticeable is being brought out (I'm just making up a crazy theory)
I was wondering why my EVF was still too contrasty even with the settings on Portrait -3 contrast. Turns out you need to have Live View Display: setting effects on On. Now it's perfect.
Anyone know how to set the range for Auto-ISO to just 800 instead of up to 1600?
I was wondering why my EVF was still too contrasty even with the settings on Portrait -3 contrast. Turns out you need to have Live View Display: setting effects on On. Now it's perfect.
Anyone know how to set the range for Auto-ISO to just 800 instead of up to 1600?
I don't think it's possible currently. I would also like to be able to adjust min shutter speed for auto-ISO, but it's hard coded to 1/60. These two simple firmware fixes would be a great improvement for NEX cameras.
briantho wrote:
I don't think it's possible currently. I would also like to be able to adjust min shutter speed for auto-ISO, but it's hard coded to 1/60. These two simple firmware fixes would be a great improvement for NEX cameras.
I just have to wonder which variable is causing so many to hit the NEX-7 video button accidently while many others have yet to accidently hit it even once (I fall into that group). Is it hand size, hand grip angle/ placement, some combination of both or what?
(I'm just making up a crazy theory)