Two questions from a dummy:
1. Is the D800E a bad idea then if you intend to do a lot of internal HDR's? Will the moire patterns combine to really make a mess vs the D800?
2. Can you do two picture HDRs of the same scene, dividing it into two HDR images(darker/lighter) that then later would be combined in software for the final image on the pc? Or does it work that way. Like I said, I'm a dummy.
No offense, but the look of the images in the tutorial is precisely the "HDR look" I try to avoid. Some like it, some call it painterly, I just don't see stuff like that in nature. We each have our own preferences, no right or wrong answer here, peace
Monito wrote:
It is impossible to map the tones from 32 bit tones to 8 bit tones without doing tone-mapping.
Perhaps I am using the terminology incorrectly, but to me tone mapping refers to the practice of "locally" manipulating the tone curve to change color relationships over a narrow range of the color wheel. Layer masks preserve color relationships within each slice of the image, and hence IMO produce much more natural looking results. A lot of the detail that comes out in some HDRs is just a numerical tweak. I can take a yellow sunset and make it purple, but so what?
joshn:
it's pretty ridiculous that Nikon only allows the exposure range to be 1 stop in bracketing mode.
That is definitely not the case. Even my D70 allowed a choice of bracketing up to +/- 2eV tweakable in 1/3 eV increments. My current D90 does the same. In both cases you are limited to at most a 3-shot automatic bracket, which is more than enough for my needs.
Turning a negative to a positive (ex. printing in the darkroom) is tone-mapping.
Changing the contrast is tone-mapping.
Changing the saturation is tone-mapping.
Changing white/colour balance is tone-mapping.
Filtering is tone-mapping.
Channel mixing is tone-mapping.
So-called "cross-processing" is tone-mapping.
Sabattier Effect (often misnamed 'solarization') is context-dependent tone-mapping.
Changing 16 million colours to 256 is tone-mapping.
Changing up to 16 million colours out of a pallette of billions to (limited) pallette of 16 million is tone-mapping.
Local contrast enhancement (pseudo-hdr, often done to ludicrously garish extremes) is localized tone mapping applied systematically to the whole picture.
Sharpening with Unsharp Mask is a localized context dependent form of tone-mapping.
Tone-mapping is the most widely used and available technique in photographic processing and post-processing.
You should consider changing the image resolution to 25mp, that is more than enough for HDR shots. The file size may be smaller too. Take that in mind when shooting specialty things such as HDR with the D800.
I really like the built-in HDR for quick shots and will be using the feature for certain things like a pesky wedding dress or a blown out sky. It will be nice to have enough latitude later in editing.
Even in the link you provided Tom, it just feels unnatural in some pictures. It definitely looks WAY better then the traditional HDR/tonemapping but it still looks slightly overdone and messes with my head. This might just be the way we have been looking at photos so long and there is so much information that wasn't possible before. I liked the subtle gains from the HDR sample on the Nikon website of the church. Just enough to get that sky and just enough to get the deeper shadows in the grass.
Also for some things, slight subject movement is possible which I hope at 36 MP you will not see unless you pixel peep. I assume the built-in HDR feature shoots them off quickly.
They also mentioned the expanded dynamic range. So certain things might be possible now and the extra HDR feature wont be needed? Either way, this camera is very very exciting and I can't wait to work with it soon.
I know this is an older thread.....but didn't want to start a new one. Is anyone else getting a red line at the far right side on D800 HDR images professed in photomatix 4.2? And how do I fix it..... Update?
james.d53 wrote:
That site must not own one. I have one and they are 75mb all day long uncompressed.
You need to compress your RAW files. There's no point in uncompressed other than wasting storage space.
On the topic, has anyone figured out a way to shoot 2 or 3 EV steps for bracketing on the D800? Even though it's not in the manual, I read you can do this on the D4 for up to 5 frames (only up to 1EV for 7 or 9 frames). Since the dynamic range is so huge on the D800, it's stupid to have only a 1EV step. To get a spread of 6EV I need to take 7 frames when the D4 can do it in 3. If you can't do this, I think a firmware update is in order.
lxdesign wrote:
Shooting for 2 EV stops -- you need to shoot 5 frames - same as the D700.
As follows: centre, 2 stop under, 1 stop under, 1 stop over, 2 stop over.
I mean an interval of 2EV (or 3) between EACH of the frames. With the D800's DR, those middle frames are just wasteful. I'd much rather have a 3 frame sequence of center, 2 stops under, 2 stops over without wasting time with the useless 1 stop under and 1 stop over frames. On the D4 you can do this. You can also do 3EV steps to have: center, 6 stops under, 3 stops under, 3 stops over, 6 stops over. I would love that on the D800.
Nikon Rob wrote:
On the topic, has anyone figured out a way to shoot 2 or 3 EV steps for bracketing on the D800? Even though it's not in the manual, I read you can do this on the D4 for up to 5 frames (only up to 1EV for 7 or 9 frames). Since the dynamic range is so huge on the D800, it's stupid to have only a 1EV step. To get a spread of 6EV I need to take 7 frames when the D4 can do it in 3. If you can't do this, I think a firmware update is in order. ...Show more →
I doubt a firmware update will come along to change it. with the exception of the d4 (I am not sure about the d600), you either can do a max of 1EV with up to 9 pictures (d700, d300, d800) or on cameras like the d7000 or d80 you can do 2 or 3EV steps with only 3 pictures. D4 is the only camera that nikon has released that I know of that has the best of both worlds. I dont know what their explanation is, but I dont like it either.
lxdesign wrote:
I know this is an older thread.....but didn't want to start a new one. Is anyone else getting a red line at the far right side on D800 HDR images professed in photomatix 4.2? And how do I fix it..... Update?
Update but also make sure you are exporting raws to tiff before blending. According to hdrsoft you get better results than trying to blend raw files.
