rsrsrs wrote:
Question to Corner fix,
How good is the workflow?
Does it take a lot of time to correct every picture?
are there presets for every situation/aperture ...?
You have to make your own profiles, so you decide if it's necessary to do it for different apertures and focus distances. But with a lens of this short focal length, you probably don't have to worry at all since it'll behave the same over the entire span.
When you have your profile, just run batch correction on every image taken with the same lens. It's really no effort at all (not including DNG conversion of course) and I do it with every picture I take with my M8.
furthermore, does some color information get lost?
Depends on what you mean. Since Cornerfix alters the balance between the color channels towards the corners, image noise can increase. From what I've seen it's only a problem at high ISO:s.
You also have the original file if you want to keep it. Cornerfix makes a new one with a "CF" suffix.
The main effort with Nex cameras and CornerFix, outside of converting to DNG, is keeping track of which lens is being used, since there is no EXIF for manual lenses. Since I've narrowed down my manual lenses to five, I assigned a number to each of them, and, whenever I change lenses, I take a quick pic of my fingers flashing a number one through five. Then, I can quickly move pics from each lens to their own folder for batch processing in Corner Fix (only two of my lenses actually need CornerFix.)
douglasf13 wrote:
The main effort with Nex cameras and CornerFix, outside of converting to DNG, is keeping track of which lens is being used, since there is no EXIF for manual lenses. Since I've narrowed down my manual lenses to five, I assigned a number to each of them, and, whenever I change lenses, I take a quick pic of my fingers flashing a number one through five. Then, I can quickly move pics from each lens to their own folder for batch processing in Corner Fix (only two of my lenses actually need CornerFix.)
You can pretty easily create new folders on the NEX-7 and relatively quickly change those folders when you change lenses. The "Play" screen has a pretty nice way of organizing the different folders.
I haven't used it yet, since I just got my NEX-7 yesterday, but ExifTool is supposed to be a good way to update the EXIF data. I plan on giving this a try and posting my thoughts afterward. It sure would be nice if we could program it into the NEX-7 to at least have focal length. I feel like it would be easy to be able to set the aperture in camera also, using the control dial, but the camera just not use it in exposure. Then again, I'm not a camera engineer... so they know better than I.
At f8, the aperture used for the bamboo shot, the Sony 16/2.8 is excellent in my view. This lens has been widely trashed by reviewers but in the field it's fine for me above 5.6. If cropping you can open up more. LR has a profile for it and there is no colour shift although there is some distortion which can be addressed in LR if critical. Personally I really like this lens on my NEX-7 and I think it's been unreasonably maligned.
waterden wrote:
At f8, the aperture used for the bamboo shot, the Sony 16/2.8 is excellent in my view. This lens has been widely trashed by reviewers but in the field it's fine for me above 5.6. If cropping you can open up more. LR has a profile for it and there is no colour shift although there is some distortion which can be addressed in LR if critical. Personally I really like this lens on my NEX-7 and I think it's been unreasonably maligned.
While I agree that my copy of the Sony 16 was better than I expected, the CV 15 is still more uniformly sharp across the whole frame at any comparable aperture, and just as small. F2.8 is fun with a lens of this focal length, but I rarely used it, so I sold the Sony last week.
I have only had about 30 mins to shoot and 10 mins to review, but so far, my shots don't indicate a major sharpness degradation with this combo (NEX-7 + CV 15 M). Color shift is definitely evident and will likely need to be corrected in every image, except those to be converted to B&W. There is some smearing at the edges, but in my extremely rudimentary tests, it seems isolated only to the extreme corner. I will be doing more testing tonight and this weekend, and will soon post samples and 100% crops for those interested. I'm happy with what I've seen so far.
On one of these threads, I slammed the Heliar 15 on that first day of NEX 7 ownership. That was when my Heliar focused past infinity, thereby accentuating the field curvature of the lens; I hadn't learned to expose more for the corners due to the light falloff; and didn't want to learn Cornerfix.
A Heliar 15 that focuses a tad short of infinity, will sharpen the edges due to the field curvature.
So, correcting all of the above issues, here is a comparision with/without Cornerfix and a crop which I may have messed up.
Resolution wise, that's actually not that bad. Surprised by this and also confused at the wildly different experiences in shifting and smearing across the NEX line. Unfortunately I have my heart set on the 28/2.8 ZM so that leaves the NEX7 out of the running. Good to see the 15 Heliar is usable on the NEX7 though.
bluetsunami wrote:
Resolution wise, that's actually not that bad. Surprised by this and also confused at the wildly different experiences in shifting and smearing across the NEX line. Unfortunately I have my heart set on the 28/2.8 ZM so that leaves the NEX7 out of the running. Good to see the 15 Heliar is usable on the NEX7 though.
Across the entire NEX line? Then it would be primarily due to the different sensors. If you mean accounts by various 5N or 7 users, it could be somewhat due to copy variation. I'm not sure how much this affects the CV15, but based on some accounts I've read about CV12 copy variation, it could be an explanation.
I think an important aspect is also whether some lenses were unknowingly focused past infinity, since many M to NEX adapters allow this, which would certainly worsen the problem.
Gary Clennan wrote:
I'm curious to know roughly how long it takes to correct a "bad" image in Cornerfix. Is it a tedious process?
The most work is producing a decent profile reference image, which you only have to do once. This profile image will be of a uniform detail-free white object. I would suggest doing it at f/8 or f/11, otherwise if you do it wide open, CornerFix will de-vignette too much for stopped down images. For the NEX series, you will need to convert the Sony RAW files to DNG. After that it's just a matter of batching all your converted DNGs for a given lens, which should be less than a second per file with a modern computer.
One thing to keep in mind is that the batch correction applies colour shift as well as vignetting removal. If you want to keep the vignetting but get rid of the colour shift, you'll have to process the files one by one manually in the CornerFix app.
It's the same process if you want to do your Leica files, just you won't have to converter to DNG.
rscheffler wrote:
I think an important aspect is also whether some lenses were unknowingly focused past infinity, since many M to NEX adapters allow this, which would certainly worsen the problem.
rsrsrs
I use CaptureOne's LCC profiles instead of cornerfix. Works great and it is fully intergrated into the editorial workflow. No image degradation. They do have a 50% off promo at the moment. I am not affiliated with phase one, it just gives me the best results with Nex raw files. http://www.phaseone.com/Phase%20One/Online-Store.aspx
Gary Clennan wrote:
I'm curious to know roughly how long it takes to correct a "bad" image in Cornerfix. Is it a tedious process?
There is this, to which a few have contributed on the topic... https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1083658/
rscheffler wrote:
...
One thing to keep in mind is that the batch correction applies colour shift as well as vignetting removal. If you want to keep the vignetting but get rid of the colour shift, you'll have to process the files one by one manually in the CornerFix app.
douglasf13 wrote:
I could be wrong, but doesn't batch mode in CornerFix remember your last luminous and color settings, so you can set it to only remove shift?
I also thought that the batch mode used both the Chroma and Luminance settings. I guess I will have to give it a try to see what happens if I turn the Luminance setting to zero and do a batch conversion.
