Chris Ventura wrote:
I guess I am one of the very few that think a real ISO of 12, 24, and 50 would be more useful than usable ISO 25,600.
I expect that it will happen eventually, especially a real ISO 50. 12 and 24/25 are probably more wishful thinking for now, but I would certainly like them too for flash work and/or large apertures in bright light.
well let the D3s sale begin... A quick check of the buy/sell shows seven D3s's for sale with four hitting the board in the last 48 hours along with a D3. The D3s is an amazing camera and for those who don't need the added resolution and video it is going to be a great "value" in a couple of months once the D4 supply hits.
Jack
david debalko wrote:
NPS asked if I want a D4 on the priority purchase program, should I have concerns about getting an early produced D4?
Very generally speaking, the yields of the first production runs of any complex piece of equipment/electronics will be the lowest (ie have the most defects). To offset that, quality-control for first production runs is generally much more stringent, both to catch+fix any defects but also to provide feedback to refine the production process. IMO the net effect is that the first bodies will probably equal in quality to later production runs, with fewer incidents of undetected defects.
I'm not quite sure why the reply isn't working correctly so I hope I do this right for Chris Ventura's quote above...
I guess I am one of the very few that think a real ISO of 12, 24, and 50 would be more useful than usable ISO 25,600.
Many years ago when I shot film (there was no digital ) and before my professional career in wedding and portrait photography started off, I shot nature (landscape, wildlife, macro, etc.) a lot as I am a huge outdoors person. I would do many backpacking trips in the Rockies here in Colorado and one of my favorite subjects to shoot was waterfalls, and I loved the dreamy effect of a slow shutter to blur the movement of the water. I mostly shot with Velvia (at ISO 50) and even then I had to use a 2-3 stop ND filter to get the proper shutter speed based on the lighting at the time of day I was shooting.
So, while I would like to see even lower ISO's it is not that crucial because there are a number of quality ND filters out there that we can use; however, there is no filter that can help with a higher ISO. So after thinking about it, it seems wise that Nikon would focus more on the higher ISO's than on the lower ISO's. Just a thought...
^yes, you can use 10 stop ND filters and such but it is kind of a pain not being able to see anything through the viewfinder, and worrrying about bumping focus while installing them. It would be pretty neat to have an internal ND filter function of some sort so you could have your cake and eat it too in this department
Not really the same thing. You can use a one-, two-, or three-stop ND without any significant difficulty, and those are all that's required to get ISO 50, 25, or even 12 respectively using the D3x or D4.
Using a 10-stop ND at ISO 100 would be the equivalent of ISO 0.1.
Would it really be 0.1? I've still stacked a 6 and a 3 and not quite had enough for the shutter speed I wanted, but unable to really see through the VF any longer. ISO25 would have been nice then.
i have never had an issue with focusing with a 10 stop filter. for one thing, if i need to focus at all, i do it in LiveView mode with the lens wide open. for another, i am shooting at apertures where i zone focus and i don't even look through the lens to set focus.
Herb...
workerdrone wrote:
^yes, you can use 10 stop ND filters and such but it is kind of a pain not being able to see anything through the viewfinder, and worrrying about bumping focus while installing them.
) and before my professional career in wedding and portrait photography started off, I shot nature (landscape, wildlife, macro, etc.) a lot as I am a huge outdoors person. I would do many backpacking trips in the Rockies here in Colorado and one of my favorite subjects to shoot was waterfalls, and I loved the dreamy effect of a slow shutter to blur the movement of the water. I mostly shot with Velvia (at ISO 50) and even then I had to use a 2-3 stop ND filter to get the proper shutter speed based on the lighting at the time of day I was shooting.
I've still stacked a 6 and a 3 and not quite had enough for the shutter speed I wanted, but unable to really see through the VF any longer. ISO25 would have been nice then.