It took me about 5 minutes and a dollar to make it. Actually, I made the whole thing at Home Depot. I grabbed a piece of sheet metal. Ran over to the tool corral. I found a pair of metal sheers out of the package and made a few quick cuts. I clamped it in a 6" bench vice that I found on the floor to make the 5 bends. All I did when I got it home was drill the hole for the screw, apply the double sided tape, and throw some gaffer's tape on to make it look official.
It's extremely crude, but it works perfectly. Granted, the velcro strap could be much more robust... The groove down the center axis keeps the VML from swinging like the stock system does. The gaffer's tape has enough friction to keep it from rotating around the light stand. Some adhesive neoprene applied to the groove would be better.
I added the tab for the screw so the worry warts wouldn't lose sleep over the double sided tape letting go. It ads about 1/2" to the depth of the unit, weighs about an ounce, costs a dollar, and allows a battery change without dismounting. No Nano/Super clamp required.
Hi Matt, thanks for the contribution to the thread! Well, I'd give you an A+ for effort, coming in well under budget, and functionality! I'll tell ya...I would've loved to see you in action at Home Depot while you were whipping this thing up! I'm sure that was a sight to see!
As with a lot of make shift designs I've seen, yours isn't the most aesthetically pleasing (as you pointed out) but it is most certainly functional. And to a lot of people, that's all that matters. The main problem that I see with what you've come up with is that there is still too much stress put on the threaded insert in the back of the VML (since there isn't
any support on the bottom of the VML). This is where most of the make shift solutions to the less than ideal clamp that is provided with the VML fail...not enough support on the bottom of the VML, and too much stress on the threaded insert which will no doubt fail under repeated stress over time. Other than that, it's functional and would probably work for some people.
One of the things that gets mentioned quite a bit (but no one has really addressed) is how the solution to the clamp problem actually looks. Yes, yes...I know. There are those of you who will say, "it doesn't matter how it looks, just as long as it's functional". While that may be true, there are many more people who take into account aesthetics of the mounting solution of the VML than those who only care about functionality. I've tried to address both of these (functionality and aesthetics) with my bracket design, and not to toot my own horn here but I do think the bracket I designed looks like something most photographers wouldn't mind hanging off their light stands. Maybe I'm wrong, and if I am then I am. For me though, I want a mounting solution for the VML that is solid, secure, functional, supportive, and looks good too.
Thanks again Matt for posting pics of what you made. I'm still smiling at the thought of you making your bracket *in* Home Depot! lol
Actually there is zero stress on the threaded insert. None. I just put that there knowing someone would worry that the high strength mounting tape would magically release. You can take the screw out, it doesn't matter. As far as asthetics... yeah, I spent about 5 minutes on it. I'll knock out a perfect one at my friends sheet metal shop when I get a chance and paint it. It'll look perfect. I just wanted to pass along the mechanics of the design which won't change.
hondageek wrote:
.... and allows a battery change without dismounting.
Thoughts?
Matt
Better for that point alone, no wing screw to drop and the cinch strap is out of the way. The depth might be an issue for transport and/or stacking multiples together.
joejack wrote:
onetrack, thanks for your input! Believe me...I wanted to make this bracket as simple as I could. But, the reality of the VML is that it isn't made to use the threaded insert or the plastic strap slots for anything other than what they were designed to do. And even then, their function (strength) is limited. The reason that my bracket is designed the way it is, is so that the strain can be taken off the VML's threaded insert as much as possible by providing a "shelf" (the bottom of the bracket) for the VML to sit on. So, the only strain that's placed on the VML itself is the wing nut that basically just keeps the VML from moving from side to side (in conjunction with the velcro cinch strap) on the bracket....Show more →
I think a velcro strap around the VML and through the slots is plenty strong.
I agree that we should not try to use the threaded insert for strength but it can be used to lock the VML in place. I think if you make a U bracket that goes through the slots and extends down part ways and up high enough to attach to a superclamp, it will be plenty strong. A screw in the insert just to keep the bracket in place.
The velcro works perfectly. It's cheap, doesn't take up any space, light, easily replaced, can be swapped out to a longer piece, etc. A super clamp is nice but it's big, heavy, limited opening size, $30+, needs a threaded mount, etc.
I attached my version to a light stand last night and shook the hell out of and it didn't move, even with that dinky strap. I shook it 10 times harder than I would if there was a strobe on the stand.
Matt: you probably don't need that deep an indentation for the wrap around the center column to keep the depth smaller too; just a slight curve and neoprene or that shelf anti-slip foamy stuff would probably work fine. And you can extend it down a little bit to grab the bottom of the VML to give it a little support there...and make the velcro slot slightly bigger to use thicker velcro. Double-sided tape is clever...I've seen that style bracket before and thought it would still stress out the screw hole but double sided tape definitely fixes that concern...
Kenyee, The groove needs to be V-shaped, not a concave curve, so it can accommodate stands with a smaller diameter. A curve would only work on one size stand. On a smaller stand, or stand leg, it would only have one point of contact rather than two. A higher friction material in the groove is part of the plan. It doesn't need to extend down, the tape is stronger than the rest of the VML itself! I'm not sure what some of you do with your stands, but this is overkill as it is. It could probably be even shorter. The screw isn't necessary, it's only there to keep the "what if" crowd happy.
Ahh, okay. Thanks for the clarification. Personally, I prefer not to stick anything to my equipment. But that's just me. And like I said before, there are those that prefer functionality over aesthetics.
I do like the v-groove idea you came up with though. And while you have some valid points against using a super clamp, I think by incorporating a super clamp into the design of an "ultimate" VML bracket makes for the best possible combination of functionality, security, and aesthetics. Just my 0.02 though. It would be just my luck that I would fashion a bracket like the one you made, go out for a shoot with my strobes in about a foot of water along a coastline somewhere, and have the double sided tape decide to come loose and my gear fall into the ocean. lol
If you're going to run with the Super clamp idea, it needs to be mounted in the center of the bracket with two screws. Not at the top with one screw so it can pendulum from that pivot point. The velcro strap will limit the travel of the pendulum action, but it will still be there.
For those doubters of the double sided tape: It's not your typical Suzie Homemaker tape, it's 3M high strength mounting tape. It's used to mount automotive parts, large metal signs to walls, etc. It's bond is stronger than the housing of the VML, the velcro, etc. It's not going to come off.
Ideally, the VML should have a V-groove, similar to my setup, cast right into the housing with a slot in the center for a strap.
Agreed. The current one hole design for the super clamp at the top of the bracket is sufficient when used in conjunction with the velcro cinch strap, but I agree that a more robust way for mounting a super clamp to the bracket is a good idea (and something I've already re-designed for V2 of the bracket).
I have no doubt that the 3M double sided tape is sticky enough to ensure it won't come loose from the VML. My concern was that if I ever wanted to get the bracket off of the VML it might be a challenge to do so, let alone the amount of sticky residue that will no doubt be left behind once the tape is removed. But again...the functionality is there, it's just whether or not people would be willing to essentially permanently attach their bracket to their VML?
I agree...some kind of re-design of the VML casing itself would be helpful, however given the fact that there doesn't seem to be a pressing need for PCB to create a newer mounting clamp for the current VML design I doubt a complete redesign of the casing is in the works anytime soon.
Thanks, trueimage! It will get it on kickstarter soon. I'm working on a few more design changes based on the feedback I've received, and should have the next version ready in a few weeks. Then we'll see what happens.
Using sticky tape will not be a good long term solution, especially if the battery will be stored and used under hot temperature. Think of glue from the tape that will start expanding and leaking around the plastic and getting on your hand.
I do believe that having the ability to remove the battery will be a very strong selling point for this bracket so keep that in mind otherwise you will hurt your sales of your new product.
C2thew, you are speculating incorrectly. You've obviously never used it. It doesn't seep glue, it doesn't release with heat anywhere in the range of what your battery will ever see. It will rip the back off the VML before it lets go. It's used for structural purposes in place of screws, rivets, welding, etc.
Okay---so I received Joe's VML bracket version 1. Quite frankly, I really don't think a "version 2" is necessary. The bracket is simple and well-thought out.
Previously I used a nanoclamp which worked "okay" but it was more of a band-aid approach to replace the stock Buff clamp which I threw into my junk drawer for parts.
I think the most economical "super clamp" is the knock-off offered by Adorama. They may not be up to task compared to the original super clamps, but in this application they are close to overkill. The clamps run about $16. The Adorama clamps include a set of screws, bolts, and a rubber "half moon" bumper. These nice little accessories fit perfectly at the bottom of the VML bracket using the pre-drilled holes. No further alterations needed---it just works.
The bracket is very securely attached at the top of the bracket as seen in Jack's early photos via adorama super clamp. I added a washer to to the small bolt which goes into the clamp. The "half-moon "bumper" acts as a simple spacer and prevents torque or possible damage from stress to the bottom of the VML. I've left the velcro band in place helping to secure the VML into the bracket at the bottom third. I guess I could re-route the velcro band to also go around the light stand as this would certainly secure the bottom against the stand by placing more pressure on the installed bumper. For longer shoots, this might be considered, but certainly not necessary.
I'm done here. No need for band-aids to this design. It is clean and works. My advice is to not "over-think" the bracket.
The only real complaint might be from those who wish to "swap out" the battery, as I don't think this would be a quick proposition. It is not an issue for me as I only use a single VML battery. The VML battery system is so inexpensive, if I wanted more, I would simply buy another VML as opposed to just the battery. I simply don't need to change out batteries as one VML provides ample power for a portrait session on location.
I'll tell ya...I would've loved to see you in action at Home Depot while you were whipping this thing up! I'm sure that was a sight to see! 
