fredmiranda.com
Login

Moderated by: Fred Miranda
  New fredmiranda.com Mobile Site
  New Feature: SMS Notification alert
  New Feature: Buy & Sell Watchlist
  

FM Forums | Leica & Alternative Gear | Join Upload & Sell

1       2       3              20              22              43       44       end
  

Archive 2011 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?

  
 
Mitch Alland
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #1 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


kosmoskatten wrote:
...I am glad to have added the CV15/4.5 to the stable as well as the Summarit 75/2.5. It might be the new flavor but I find I use the CV15 more often than the ZM18 though the latter is a better lens in every technical aspect, except size. I think Mitch has / had both as well...


Henrik, yes that's right: I have both the CV15 and the ZM18, and tend to use the former more because I like the 21mm field of view and somehow find the ZM18 more clinical. I've been using mainly the CV15 and the Elmarit-21 ASPH with the GXR-M. Here's another picture with the Elmarit-21, developed as usual in RPP:



Paris | GXR-M | Elmarit-21 ASPH | ISO 1250 | f/5.6 | 1/250
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7160/6745619283_ddb0ab529c_b.jpg


—Mitch/Bangkok
Wild Beasts of Botswana



Jan 23, 2012 at 05:30 AM
genji
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #2 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


rscheffler wrote:
My initial impression is that I prefer the ZM50 Planar on the GXR and the 50 Lux on the M9. A significant factor in the character of the Lux is how it vignettes wide open, much of which is lost on APS-C. This combines with a gentler rendering at f/1.4. I guess it's due to a degree of SA that clears up around f/2 and beyond. On the M9, this combination of vignetting and dual qualities of sharpness and softness produces a nice overall feeling, IMO. On APS-C, 50 Lux files feel a bit flat to me, but I suppose
...Show more

What an excellent analysis and explanation of the relationship between MTF curves and sensor size! For a long time MTF curves were opaque to me but, after working through a variety of explanations, I eventually understood how to read them. Even so, the subject remained "theoretical" to me, in the sense that I couldn't quite figure out how this knowledge could be put to practical use. Now, thanks to you, Ron, I can make an informed judgement about whether a particular full-frame RF lens would be appropriate to use on an APS-C sensor. Better still, I'll be better able to match my existing RF lenses to the kinds of subjects I wish to photograph. I'm sure that kosmoskatten and myself are just two of many who will benefit from your observations.



Jan 23, 2012 at 06:22 AM
kosmoskatten
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #3 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


I normally don't link to Fl*ckr pages but here is some very fine work with the GXR and CV15mm and some really great shots with the A12/28 as well. Direct link goes to a B&W portrait with the A12/28. Photos by "Helje".

http://www.flickr.com/photos/helje/5954334672/in/set-72157626794648505/lightbox/

All in all I prefer the CV15 images but some of the A12/28 are excellent.



Jan 23, 2012 at 01:31 PM
Kit Laughlin
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #4 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Ron, great explanation; and the reason the CV lenses are just so good on the GXR.

Here's a selection of images, no sharpening, from the interior job the other day:

http://kitlaughlin.com/bodypress/Laman_Pl_SELECTION/

Just a quick run through Aperture (Sorry, Mitch; I will process some through RPP I promise!).

Most shot on the CV 12/5.6, at ƒ8, one on the 15/4.5 at same aperture.

Handling notes:

The GXR on a tripod can be put right into a corner, so maximising the mounted len's FOV; the tiltable EVF is unique here. Doing interiors is much harder with the big Nikons or the A850 for this reason, because you can't see the Live View of the Nikon through the finder (of course) and the right angle finder of the Sony, showing the viewfinder image, cannot show critical focus. The GXR can do both.

I will say that neither the EVF nor the LCD displays what the GXR is actually capturing, but once I processed the first batch and saw the Raw images pop off the screen, I realised that I did not need to. The histogram's accurate, too, which is great in these kind of high DR situations. I went full manual on the controls; the histogram shows here (I was bouncing a hint of flash into some of the rooms, because I was not able to shoot at perfect times of the day), and I was able to adjust the output of the strobe behind the softbox by what I saw in the EVF (on playback).

Flash was triggered by the on-camera unit, and a business card folded across the front of the light kept its light off the subject. Again, this 'minor' feature is streets ahead of either the big Nikons (they can trigger their own Speedlites, set up in Slave mode, but only if one of the larger units is mounted in the hot shoe), and the Sony flashes all send out pre-flashes which, AFAIK, cannot be turned off, so can't be used to trigger studio units, which respond the pre-flashes... So, in the studio (in the absence of radio triggers) I used cords, never the most reliable tools.

I find when the light is dim, you do have to keep an eye on the histogram; I think that the camera boosts the EVF image and before I realised this, I got some ~2 EV underexposed images; all part of the learning curve.

What I am not 100% happy with having the EV control on the tele-wide button, top RHS; I keep bumping this while and when picking the camera up (if left turned on). For the work under discussion, putting the Exp. Comp. on the "up-down" dial at the front would be better, but I am I right in thinking that this can't be done?

Finally, can someone explain how the GXR (assume Module) can be set up to have an AE lock button? I have looked (but clearly not in the right place!) for this but could not find it. I would love to be able to program this to the Macro button while in shooting mode.

My one complaint is.... dust bunnies; I had to get rid of a bunch of these and I did not think to blow the sensor off before shooting (white walls). Of course most of them landed on architraves... I realise that the D3s and the Sony both have automatic sensor cleaners that really work, so had forgotten about this.

Other than these little aspects, I am liking this camera very much, and IMHO, this is a much more versatile camera than many of the reviewers think.





Jan 25, 2012 at 01:40 AM
Mitch Alland
Offline
• • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #5 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Kit Laughlin wrote:
...My one complaint is.... dust bunnies; I had to get rid of a bunch of these and I did not think to blow the sensor off before shooting (white walls). Of course most of them landed on architraves... I realise that the D3s and the Sony both have automatic sensor cleaners that really work, so had forgotten about this...


I'm finding that I get dust on the sensor much less often with the GXR-M than I did with the M8 and the M9.

—Mitch/Bangkok
Barrier



Jan 25, 2012 at 04:47 AM
kosmoskatten
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #6 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Kit, I have yet to have troubles with dust bunnies, but I switch off the A12 M module when changing lenses. It is set to close the shutter when shut off. Make sure you haven't left it in the mode where it keeps it open (cleaning mode?).

I will eventually have some dust bunnies to tend to, but so far I have had less than on the M9. But the M9 sensor is always exposed when changing lenses.




Jan 25, 2012 at 11:43 AM
Kit Laughlin
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #7 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


The dust bunnies might even have been on the unit when I first got it, and I will test this today, now that I have blown it off.

I have the shutter set to alway close when the camera is turned off, and I will remember to turn off when changing lenses too.

If someone can give me definitive response to the AE lock and moving the Exp. Comp. to the 'up-down' front dial, I will be even happier, but I am sure I will learn how to avoid hitting the button too!



Jan 25, 2012 at 04:05 PM
kosmoskatten
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #8 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Kit, you can move the exp comp to the + - (up and down) buttons on the menu/ok cluster button if that works better for you. At least you won't knock the exp comp with the zoom button. Mostly because I haven't reconfigured I have exp comp on both at the moment.

On the front wheel exp comp I have no yes or no answer to that at the moment, I'll try and look into it.

PS
The interior files look nice and very pliable should you want to work more with them. I think the CV12 looks a lot better than I had expected. And for interiors the wider the better in many instances.



Jan 25, 2012 at 04:44 PM
rscheffler
Offline
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #9 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Kit, I don't think I can answer your questions, but am curious if your CV12 is sharp corner to corner wide open? Your results with it look very good. Mine is a bit softer on one side... and am wondering if I should risk getting another copy.


Jan 25, 2012 at 04:51 PM
Kit Laughlin
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #10 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Thanks Henrik; I will look into that, too.

What do people use here for AE lock? I will look more into this myself; the situation I am thinking of is when I need to expose for the light outside a window (with the meter set to Centre) then reposition on the ball head to the room itself. I know I can do this via a half-press on the shutter button, but that's difficult to hold while repositioning (I need one hand on the camera, and the other on the ball head clamp).

I would like to use one button to lock exposure, and have that exposure locked in to the camera while I add fill, etc, make an exposure and check the results, with that EV locked in. The big cameras allow that function to be programmed in to work either by holding a button down (not how I use it) or you can have the value lock in until you re-press that button (which deletes the held value and you start again).

I could find nothing in the GXR manual on this.

It's not a major problem, if it can't be done, but I would have thought that all the street shooters here would need something like this to account for the huge DR when including skies in images.

Cheers and thanks to all, kl



Jan 25, 2012 at 04:56 PM
rscheffler
Offline
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #11 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


I would just use manual exposure, which should work fine in a controlled environment.


Jan 25, 2012 at 05:00 PM
Kit Laughlin
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #12 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Update re. having Exp. Comp. on the zoom control: It's probably still the best place for it, because I use the +, OK, - cluster for manually controlling the flash output, which I use the minimum amount that will trigger the stobes. No, I am going to learn not to press the zoom rocker!

kosmo, I have hardly done any work on those files, apart from the bunnies. And I still have not tried RPP; the customer needed those images quickly (don't they always?). Now I have a selection, I will go back to Mitch's tutorial and have a play.

to Mitch: what software do you use to do your initial selections? I can see myself using Aperture as I do (raws on remote storage HDDs), for a 'Q&D' (do you folk use this expression?) and a sort/select, and once the customer has made the selection, run the same Raw files through RPP.

As an aside, in colour critical situations, I thought folk might be interested in the method I use.

I use the passport colour checker in each shot, and make an image of the room but only being illuminated by the outdoor light. Then I turn on the incandescents, and make another exposure (with the Passport), than add the fill (if using it) and make another exposure. I then lose the card, and make the final exposure. Sounds more complicated to describe than do, but the point is I can get the colours of the furnishings perfect that way, and have the flexibility to have warmer versions for emotional appeal. And I can see precisely what effects overall adding the different light sources have, and they can be major.

Ron, my copy seems to be sharp corner to corner (as it should be; we are only using the centre 2/3rds of the lens, as you mention above). I was disappointed when I zoomed in on the LCD when first playing with the lens; I thought the images looked a bit soft all over—until I put them up on the big screen (and that's when I realised that the LCD only gives an impression of the final images: the camera is capturing it all). And after using the various focus assists, I stopped; I zone focus to about 1.5m, and use ƒ8: everything's sharp.

I think it would be worth trying another copy.



Jan 25, 2012 at 05:29 PM
rsolti13
Online
• • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.21 #13 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Alright, for you GXR people, I have a few questions.

1. The VF-2 viewfinder, how is it? Does it have any lag? Does the focus assist work with it?

2. flash - is it a regular hot shoe allowing me to use my Nikon SB-800? I don't want to have to buy more flash units

3. With lenses that have focus shift (like a ZM 50 Sonnar), using live view, is that shift pretty much eliminated?



Jan 27, 2012 at 12:46 PM
rsolti13
Online
• • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.21 #14 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


oh yeah, the 28mm module, that is a 28mm equivalent, not a 28 * 1.5 = 42mm equiv....correct?


Jan 27, 2012 at 12:48 PM
kosmoskatten
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #15 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


rsolti:

The A12/28 is a 18.3mm lens so it is effectively a 28mm on the camera, so it is labeled 18.3 on the lens but it is effectively a 28.

1. Focus assist works the same as on the rear LCD, and works fine. Lag time I am not so sure of, I have mostly shot stationary subjects so I haven't really noticed. I am sure there is some lag. If there is more noticeable lag in low light vs daylight? I don't know.

2. No, I think Ricoh has their own flash protocol. I haven't got the flash, though I have tried it. It is a very good flash and exposure is usually spot on. I am considering the flash, but I rarely use it. (Ricoh has a multi WB setting for mixed light which works pretty well.)

3. Focus shift is completely eliminated with Live View. What you see is what you get and probably the main advantage of EVF/LCD vs RF.

After offloading my excess glass I have a Voigtländer 35/1.2 v.II on order, should be here next week.



Jan 27, 2012 at 01:08 PM
rsolti13
Online
• • • •
Upload & Sell: On
p.21 #16 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Thanks! I'm ordering one. The Voigtlander 35 f/1.2 II - I can promise will be a hell of a lens on the GXR. I briefly had the NEX-5N and it was by far my favorite lens on there. I enjoyed using it more than 50 Lux ASPH....crop probably had something to do with it as well.


Jan 27, 2012 at 01:17 PM
kosmoskatten
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #17 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Sounds good. Make sure you get a spare battery. It is the same battery as a Fuji one and you should be able to pick up good batteries on the cheap.


Jan 27, 2012 at 01:38 PM
rscheffler
Offline
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #18 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


Hi Ryan,

The EVF is reasonable, though not cutting edge. For critical focusing you will want to use one of the focus assist modes. On its own I find the EVF's normal image playback to be slightly soft, though the text/number overlays are very crisp, so it has to be how the system generates the realtime image. I prefer the mode 2 'predator' assist because edge details stand out very nicely and suddenly makes the EVF sharp enough to judge focus. But even here, it's best to use magnified focus assist with the focus assist mode to ensure the most accurate focus. I have noticed some jello-ness to the EVF when at maximum magnification with longer lenses. Obviously at this point camera shake is significantly amplified and seems to put a real strain on the EVF. But in normal non-magnified use, I haven't really noticed much of a problem. In really low light the EVF doesn't feel noticeably laggy, to me at least.

I haven't yet tried a flash on it... I use my Canon 580 EX flash on the M9, but in manual power mode. I'll give it a try later today on the GXR and report back. I would guess you could use a non-Ricoh flash set to manual power. The question is whether any of the dedicated contact pins also align with the Canon or Nikon flashes and cause errors.

I have the CV40, and it has considerable focus shift, perhaps more than the Sonnar. All you have to do is make sure you focus at the actual shooting aperture. With some lenses that don't have focus shift, like the CV35 f/1.2 II, sometimes I will focus at or near wide open just to be sure I've placed the plane of focus precisely, then will stop down.

Have you read pretty much all of this thread? In case you haven't, I just wanted to point out one of my peeves with the GXR: the camera locks up for about a second or so after each image. If you think you will want to capture a sequence, then set it to continuous advance, but that will only give you four consecutive images, and afterwards you'll have to wait around 5-8 seconds for the buffer to clear fully. If you ease off the shutter release part way through the sequence, then the camera begins to process the buffer and locks all other functions. This is frustrating for me because I have the habit of shooting frames in relative quick succession, but not necessarily at 3 fps. Already I've run into situations where maybe I jumped the gun and my initial capture was too quick, but missed the shot I wanted because the buffer was still clearing. It's iconically the reverse problem of the M9, which will let you fire off frames relatively quickly, but once you hit the seventh, then the buffer will be full and it will take at least 7-8 seconds to clear space for one image. The GXR locks you out completely, but at least it's only for a second or so (based on my use with Class 10 SDHC cards - slower cards might increase this delay). A GXR M mount feature I really like is the totally silent electronic shutter, though quickly moving objects can end up looking kind of distorted.

+1 on the extra batteries. In cold weather I've been getting under 200 images per charge. It will depend a lot on how you plan to use the camera. If it's possible you'll do full day outings (though based your recent work schedule, maybe not? ) and depending on how you set up the sleep functions, you could burn through at least a couple. The way I shoot, I could see myself needing more than the three I have now if the GXR was my primary or only camera while on a trip. The Fuji NP-95 battery for the X100 is the same, though the Ricoh is cheaper. I point this out only because if you plan to travel with the camera, or go through a lot of batteries, the recharge time is up to 5 hours, which might make it difficult to fully recharge multiple batteries in time for the next day's outing. I purchased a $20 off brand NP-95 travel charger from B&H so that I can charge two batteries at once (the other in the Ricoh charger). Keep this in mind if you decide you like the camera and intend to keep it for a while.



Jan 27, 2012 at 02:46 PM
kosmoskatten
Offline
• • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #19 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


I agree with Ron.

The GXR is not a fast frame rate action camera.

Also, bear in mind that there is a successor to the GXR base/body in the pipe. At CP+ in February 9-12 we might learn something about it. Only info so far is articulated LCD. One would hope for a faster frame rate but I am not sure whether the bottleneck is in the module or the body unit.

If you plan on using the external EVF mostly you have less use of an articulated LCD of course. GXR bodies run cheap nowadays, at least over here.




Jan 27, 2012 at 03:27 PM
rscheffler
Offline
• • • • • •
Upload & Sell: Off
p.21 #20 · Still no love for the Ricoh GXR?


I tried the Canon 580 EX flash on the GXR. Obviously there isn't auto TTL flash support. I set the camera to manual and the flash to manual power output, mounted it on the hotshoe, and it will fire once, then nothing for successive images. I had to remount the flash to get it to fire again. Can't say how it might work with a Nikon brand flash. Maybe the same, maybe not... but it looks like either Ricoh's own or a non-dedicated flash is needed.


Jan 28, 2012 at 03:35 PM
1       2       3              20              22              43       44       end




FM Forums | Leica & Alternative Gear | Join Upload & Sell

1       2       3              20              22              43       44       end
    
 

Welcome back
Log in to your account