p.2 #1 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
Made some first tests with a quick modified Non-Alternativ Canon EF 50/1,8 and my other three lenses with the not that smooth filters.
On the camera display the images looks promissing. And probably the effect of the not very dark transmission of the silde film appears - the bright highlights looks ~ nearly normal, but the details with not that much intensitys looks softer.
But as said, these tests are without comparison images and only viewed on the camera display.
p.2 #5 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
wickerprints wrote:
I really like the fact that you're playing with this technique on short focal length lenses. It's very promising!
I would like to test it with much more lenses - and fast lenses.
But at them moment I have not enough motivation to work me through my Canon FD 24/1.4L, FD 85/1.2L, Zeiss 85/1.4 (C/Y), Jupiter 85/2.0, Porst 135/1.8 to get access to the iris :-/
They have all a more complex setup.
But I think I have to decide, which of those lenses I need to open :-/
p.2 #6 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
Markus,
Your tinkering and modifications are always inspiring to me! This is something I may just try on my Yashica...should I get motivated and brave enough to try it.
p.2 #7 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
ZoneV wrote:
I would like to test it with much more lenses - and fast lenses.
But at them moment I have not enough motivation to work me through my Canon FD 24/1.4L, FD 85/1.2L, Zeiss 85/1.4 (C/Y), Jupiter 85/2.0, Porst 135/1.8 to get access to the iris :-/
They have all a more complex setup.
But I think I have to decide, which of those lenses I need to open :-/
Woww ... that's a daring job ZoneV. Can't wait to see the result.
p.2 #9 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
bravo for trying, it looks promising.
I've rented (bought & returned) the 135 STF for a week. The a-mount community hails it as the king of bokeh but i agree, like posts in this thread, cause the bokeh to be dizzy and artificial. e.g.
However. The Minolta Maxxum 7 film body does have an "STF Mode" that essentially replicates the apodization filter on the 135 STF and this can be replicated in with digital PP. The STF Mode takes partial exposures at varying aperatures in the same film frame. This can be approximated by taking several shots at different aperatures and layering them in post with varying opacity. i.e.
p.2 #10 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
Yes, but for this exposure series you need non moving objects. Not possible with the tree and foilage thing (at least here in windy Hamburg).
The other easy way would be a moving iris during exposure. Camera manufacturers could implement this for exposure times equal and shorter x-sync. Or one could use central shutter lenses.
p.2 #11 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
Edgars Kalnins wrote:
Very interesting . I can see that a man who has so many lenses could be driven to modifications to find unusual results
It is not the number of lenses I have, that drives me to do that - they are not harmed in this apodization DIY job.
It is the realisation that most talk about "good bokeh" is about the quantity. And the quality differences - we talk here in the alternative lenses board about - are relative small.
I own and love the Meyer Trioplan with its soap bubble bokeh. And one of the better lenses in terms of smooth bokeh - the Minolta Rokkor 58/1.2. And some others. But their smooth bokeh is still not very smooth.
Because of this I started the search and tinkering.
Sometimes the lack of material urge me to think about tinkering. My unique system to have changable IR filters inside my EOS Rebel XT was started that I want the possibillity to make IR photos without the need for a tripod (that would be too much luggage for a walk with my small child and camera), but still need that camera as a backup system for my second Rebel XT for nude photgraphy.
p.2 #13 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
Hello Zone V,
I'm very interested with your work here, it's awesome!!!
I have a question, if I make an apodization filter by your method and use it as a rear filter, will it produce the same effect?
I really want to try this on my samyang 85 1.4, but don't want to mess it up so bad
p.2 #15 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
xxxpisogaxxx wrote:
...
I have a question, if I make an apodization filter by your method and use it as a rear filter, will it produce the same effect?
...
Thank you :-)
Behind the lens it will most likely produce vignetting - and probably less sharp image.
The place of the iris is a bit magic, you could not copy the effects of that position on other position to 100% - probably even not 10%.
You could put any obstacle in iris position in the light path - you will not see the form in the sharp image areas. But you see it in the bokeh, absolute sharp.
Behind the lens you most likely see it in the sharp areas too.
p.2 #16 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
FlyPenFly wrote:
Can't argue with the awesomeness of your results.
FlyPenFly wrote:
I don't understand the "dizzy" comments about the bokeh. It seems the opposite of that. If anything, it looks too clinical and perfect.
The blurred background with an apodization lens is very special. I donīt like it on every image, either.
Sometimes I even like the Trioplan soap bubble bokeh :-)
p.2 #17 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
Only problem with STF is that its "too good". In real life its pretty cool thing for certain types of product photography. Not much for anything else tho..
Yea and interesting thing, when you stop down that lens, its incredibly sharp...
p.2 #18 · Build your own apodization lens - like Sony 135 STF
The Wiki page is interesting: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apodization and mentions Photon Sieves as sited in this article: http://optics.org/article/30113 which makes me wonder if exposing that to your slide film and using it in place of the gaussian blur gradient one wouldn't produce better results. Or perhaps less "dizzy" bokeh?
