I've been playing around with pano-stitches lately.
I have some questions, if it's okay.
If there is a better place to ask, I will gladly d0 so.
I must say, this makes my new 8gb win7-64b laptop suffer like the old 4gb XPPro one did with "regular" layered files.
I have been using CS5, MS ICE, and Hugin.
I think I like ICE the most, except I see no way to save the files as 16bit, seems all the formats are 8 bit?
Also, I'm not sure what, or how to post any of these.
I think I am taking things way too far.
Playing around, not sure what to expect.
I did a recent stitch using 70 images from a 5DmkII and 100-400L zoomed to 400mm.
I have only processed these in ICE, so far, and the files are HUGE!
100 percent scale results in a 21135x14973-316.45mp 2.515 GB file.
50 percent scale results in a 10567x7486-79.1mp 636 MB file.
How do you edit GB length files?
I'm afraid to open these, even in the file exploder view, I turn the preview pane off.
buggz2k wrote:
I've been playing around with pano-stitches lately.
I have some questions, if it's okay.
If there is a better place to ask, I will gladly d0 so.
I must say, this makes my new 8gb win7-64b laptop suffer like the old 4gb XPPro one did with "regular" layered files.
I have been using CS5, MS ICE, and Hugin.
I think I like ICE the most, except I see no way to save the files as 16bit, seems all the formats are 8 bit?
Also, I'm not sure what, or how to post any of these.
I think I am taking things way too far.
Playing around, not sure what to expect.
I did a recent stitch using 70 images from a 5DmkII and 100-400L zoomed to 400mm.
I have only processed these in ICE, so far, and the files are HUGE!
100 percent scale results in a 21135x14973-316.45mp 2.515 GB file.
50 percent scale results in a 10567x7486-79.1mp 636 MB file.
How do you edit GB length files?
I'm afraid to open these, even in the file exploder view, I turn the preview pane off.
There's no reason you shouldn't be able to edit those files on your current system. I used to edit multi-hundred megapixel images in Photoshop Elements 3 on a system with 4gigs of RAM. Before that I was using Photoshop 5.5 on a system with even less RAM. You just have to be patient, because it will be slow. The most important thing is to start working from a flattened file as soon as you can--the only reason to work with the fully layered PSD is to correct any stitching errors. Once that's done, flatten, save with a new name, and work from that file.
Thanks for the information.
Yeah, I had to flatten the image as soon as possible in CS5 photomerge, it was way too crazy big.
Does everyone edit the raw files individually, and then generate tiffs?
I have been doing so on the raw file of the focus point, and then synchronizing the settings for the others.
This way, they are all kind of the same exposure values, and not to far out.
What about metering? Does metering affect the image in manual mode? I keep forgetting to change from spot. I keep the initial focus from the first shot, and let the exposure fall where it will.
Perhaps, it is even better to obtain an exposure metering from a wide angle shot of the scene first?
Yeah, too many questions, sorry.
I'll try and post a reduced sized file of my first experiment.
obik wrote:
[There's no reason you shouldn't be able to edit those files on your current system. I used to edit multi-hundred megapixel images in Photoshop Elements 3 on a system with 4gigs of RAM. Before that I was using Photoshop 5.5 on a system with even less RAM. You just have to be patient, because it will be slow. The most important thing is to start working from a flattened file as soon as you can--the only reason to work with the fully layered PSD is to correct any stitching errors. Once that's done, flatten, save with a new name, and work from that file....Show more →
buggz2k wrote:
Does everyone edit the raw files individually, and then generate tiffs?
I have been doing so on the raw file of the focus point, and then synchronizing the settings for the others.
This way, they are all kind of the same exposure values, and not to far out.
What about metering? Does metering affect the image in manual mode? I keep forgetting to change from spot. I keep the initial focus from the first shot, and let the exposure fall where it will.
Perhaps, it is even better to obtain an exposure metering from a wide angle shot of the scene first?
Yeah, too many questions, sorry.
I'll try and post a reduced sized file of my first experiment. ...Show more →
in manual mode metering won't effect anything, the meter just tells you whether it thinks you are over or underexposing. i typically set my exposure from the brightest part of the scene to insure highlights are recoverable. in post i generally pick the frame with most contrasting elements to process and apply those settings to all for exporting to tiff.
Went out to a cold and windy Staines yesterday and took several handheld panos with my Canon FD 85mm f1.2 L...Every one of them at f1.2! Autopano Pro handled the shallow DOF with ease though:
Autopano Pro does HDR panorama stitching. no need to copy any control points anywhere.
Herb...
dakel wrote:
But what I like most about it was the ability to apply the stitching points from one set of images, to another. This allows me to stitch images of the same exposure together, save as tiff, and then apply the same stitch to a different exposure and save as tiff. Then I could use my favourite method of blending the exposures together in CS5, using luminosity masking.
HerbChong wrote:
Autopano Pro does HDR panorama stitching. no need to copy any control points anywhere.
Indeed. But I prefer manual blending in Photoshop to automated HDR. I don't know if this is possible in APP but I was able to figure it out with PTGUI pretty easily, so ended up purchasing PTGUI.
An older one I found while scouring the hard drive. Does a Tokina 12-24mm count as Alt. gear? On my 40D, 6 shots stitched, Thompson River, near Lytton BC.
sebboh wrote:
in manual mode metering won't effect anything, the meter just tells you whether it thinks you are over or underexposing. i typically set my exposure from the brightest part of the scene to insure highlights are recoverable. in post i generally pick the frame with most contrasting elements to process and apply those settings to all for exporting to tiff.
